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Chesterfield coat

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Formal overcoat
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A 1909 fashion plate of the new Chesterfield

TheChesterfield is aformal, dark, knee-lengthovercoat with avelvet collar introduced around the 1840s in theUnited Kingdom. A less formal derivation is the similar, but with a lighter fabric, slightly shorter,top coat called acovert coat.

History

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The Chesterfield coat, with its heavy waist suppression using a waist seam, gradually replaced theover-frock coat during the second half of the 19th century as a choice for a formal overcoat, and survived as a coat of choice over the progression fromfrock coat everyday wear to the introduction of thelounge suit, but remained principally associated with formalmorning dress andwhite tie. Its namesake wasGeorge Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield, then a leader of British fashion.[1][2]

Characteristics

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George Stanhope, 7th Earl of Chesterfield,circa 1860, is wearing an early example of a Chesterfield coat (1860).

The dark Chesterfield, which comes with a defining velvetcollar[2] has no horizontal seam or sidebodies, but can still be somewhat shaped using the side seams and darts. It can be single- ordouble-breasted, and has been popular in a wide variety of fabrics, typically heavier weighttweeds, or charcoal and navy, and even thecamel hair classic, although such fabrics may be more associated with a morecasualpolo coat. These variations make it extremely versatile, so it can be worn with a city suit or evensemiformal dress, as well as casualsports jackets. It was a staple of smartly dressed men's wardrobes from the 1920s to 1960s, and has become a classic style for both men and even women.[2]

Popular culture

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  • Roger Moore wears a navy Chesterfield coat as James Bond in the 1973 film "Live and Let Die"

References

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  1. ^"A Man's Guide to Overcoats". artofmanliness.com. December 11, 2012. Retrieved2013-11-03.
  2. ^abcCumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2010-11-15).The Dictionary of Fashion History. Oxford; New York: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 46.ISBN 9781847885333.

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