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Charles Creed

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
British fashion designer (1909–1966)
Charles Creed
Born
Charles Southey Creed

25 May 1909
Paris, France
Died17 July 1966(1966-07-17) (aged 57)[1][2]
Westminster, London
OccupationFashion designer
Spouse
Patricia Cunningham
(m. 1948)

Charles Southey Creed (25 May 1909 – 17 July 1966) was a British fashion designer. Born into the longstanding tailoring house ofHenry Creed & Company in Paris, he launched his eponymous label in London in 1946. The first elected member of theIncorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, he had success in both Britain and the United States.[3]

Early life and career

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Creed was born in 1909 at 29 rue Singer in the16th arrondissement of Paris, the sixth child and third son born to tailor Henry Creed (1824–1914).[3] LikeCharles Worth, the Creed family was British and became part of the French couture establishment, rising to prominence in the 19th century.[4] His grandfather, also named Henry Creed, had introduced women's professional tailoring to Paris in the 1890s.[5] The company – which said its tailoring roots dated back to the 1700s – had a reputation for creating fine women'sriding habits as well as men's tailoring; clients included the British and French royal families.[6][7] Creed's father was said to have designed the outfit worn byMata Hari when she was shot.[1]

Charles Creed was educated in France and Vienna, also spending some time as a designer withBergdorf Goodman in New York, where he was said to have been very popular with clients. After a six-month spell completing his fashion industry education at Linton tweed mill inCarlisle – a key supplier to couturiers, notablyCoco Chanel – he returned to work at the family firm in Paris in 1933.[7][8] He retained a workspace inKnightsbridge during the early 1930s, which he shared with fellow designer – and later IncSoc member –Mattli.[9] He was already considered notable enough in the United States to be chosen – alongside names such asElsa Schiaparelli andJeanne Lanvin – to design clothes forFrances Drake in the 1936 film version ofI'd Give My Life.[10] Creed was designing for the family firm in Paris at the outbreak ofwar, moving back in 1940 after the fall of France.[11] He later described how he left Paris hours ahead of the Germans – with his father Henry Creed, then 80, refusing to evacuate the city where he had spent his life.[12]

Establishment of label

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Charles Creed established his London showroom and workspace initially inFortnum & Mason, moving to a basement air raid shelter once theLondon air raids started in earnest. In early 1941, he toured the United States to promote British woollens to American consumers and encourage them to support the war effort.[12] He also contributed to the war effort as a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc) in 1942.[13] According to the fashion journalistErnestine Carter, while Creed contributed to a 1941 collection with other IncSoc founding members, he was not among the eight founder members, but was the first elected member of the Society.[14]

Creed opened his eponymous label in London in 1946.[15] His 1947 collection – produced in a year when rationing was still in force in Britain – was greeted enthusiastically by a reviewer forMelbourne newspaperThe Age, who described wool and jersey dresses with coordinating coats and box jackets, plus tailored suits in striped tweeds and blackbarathea worn with brightly coloured blouses.[15] His 1947 range was also showcased in aBritish Pathé feature, alongside hats by Danish milliner to the QueenAage Thaarup. Three years later, Creed's place among the British couture establishment was cemented by the inclusion of one of his suits in a fashion show sequence in the filmMaytime in Mayfair – all the designers were IncSoc members.[16]

Creed was well connected among broader fashion circles. His wife Patricia Cunningham had been appointed fashion editor ofVogue at the age of 23; a 1952 article inThe Sydney Morning Herald about the women behind London's top designers described her as: "his severest critic", adding that she attended his fashion shows in order to take notes about hits and misses in the collection.[17]

Brand hallmarks

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Creed's store was located at 31Basil Street, Knightsbridge.[13] The premises was masculine in tone, with dark panelling on the walls and displays ofNapoleonic toy soldiers (Creed had a fine collection that was later to be the subject of aBritish Pathé film).[13] This love of military themes and detailing was to influence his designs, which featuredfrogging, braiding and piping. Capes andtricorn hats were also part of his design signature.[18] While he did make some evening wear, designs were normally slim and tailored.[19]

Legacy

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Several years before his death, Creed had established a wholesale fashion house specialising in knitwear and planned to focus on this after the closure of his couture business in 1966.[1]

After the closure of his couture house, he donated a selection of model garments to theVictoria and Albert Museum to illustrate his design style.[19] His work was also exhibited as part of a 2007 V&A exhibition calledThe Golden Age of Couture.[18] The family name lives on in the Paris perfume house ofCreed.

Publications

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  • Creed, Charles,Maid to Measure (Jarrolds, 1961)
  • de la Haye, A., 'Material Evidence' in Wilcox, C. ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 (V&A Publications, 2007), p. 96-7 & pl.4.6

References

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  1. ^abc"Obituary: Mr Charles Creed, London Fashion Designer".The Times. No. 56687. 19 July 1966. p. 12.
  2. ^"Charles Creed, suit designer, died in London". The Milwaukee Journal. Associated Press. 16 July 1966. Retrieved10 August 2014.
  3. ^ab"Creed, Charles Southey (1909-1966), couturier".Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (online ed.). Oxford University Press. 2004.doi:10.1093/ref:odnb/72988. (Subscription orUK public library membership required.)
  4. ^"Labels and date".vam.ac.uk. Victoria & Albert Museum. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  5. ^Waddell, Gavin (2013).How Fashion Works: Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Mass Production. John Wiley & Sons. p. 176.ISBN 9781118814994. Retrieved6 June 2017.
  6. ^Fukai, Akiko (2002).Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Institute. Taschen. p. 714.ISBN 9783822812068. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  7. ^abBrice, Jonathen."Charles Creed". Shopping News, April 1948. Archived fromthe original on 12 August 2014. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  8. ^Armstrong, Lisa (15 February 2013)."British tweed: a brilliant yarn". Daily Telegraph. Retrieved10 August 2014.
  9. ^Quinton, Rebecca (2004).Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (2004 ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. Retrieved14 September 2014.
  10. ^Leese, Elizabeth (1991).Costume Design in the Movies. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications Inc. p. 14.ISBN 978-0486265483. Retrieved10 August 2014.
  11. ^Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (2009).The Great Fashion Designers. Oxford: Berg. p. 73.ISBN 9781847882288. Retrieved5 August 2014.Charles Creed + Hollywood designs.
  12. ^abstaff (12 February 1941)."British designer tells women how to help in war". Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  13. ^abcWaddell, Gavin (2004).How Fashion Works: Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Mass Production. Oxford: Blackwell Science. pp. 175–7.ISBN 9780632057528. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  14. ^Carter, Ernestine; Ryan, Ann (1974).With tongue in chic. London: Joseph. pp. 185–6.ISBN 978-0718112981.
  15. ^abThe Age special correspondent (23 September 1947)."Charles Creed upholds tailoring tradition". The Age. Retrieved8 August 2014.{{cite news}}:|last1= has generic name (help)
  16. ^"Maytime in Mayfair (1949)".screenonline.org.uk. British Film Institute. Retrieved10 August 2014.
  17. ^staff (20 January 1952)."Women behind 'big ten' Londondesigners". Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved13 August 2014.
  18. ^abFrist Center for the Visual Arts Exhibition Guide(PDF). Frist Center (V&A touring exhibition). 2010. p. 24. Retrieved9 August 2014.
  19. ^ab"Bibliographic reference".vam.ac.uk. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved11 August 2014.

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