Ceredigion | |
|---|---|
 | |
 Coat of arms | |
| Motto: | |
 Ceredigion shown withinWales | |
| Coordinates:52°15′10″N4°00′01″W / 52.25278°N 4.00028°W /52.25278; -4.00028 | |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Country | Wales |
| Preserved county | Dyfed |
| Incorporated | 1 April 1996 |
| Administrative HQ | Aberaeron andAberystwyth |
| Government | |
| • Type | Principal council |
| • Body | Ceredigion County Council |
| • Control | Plaid Cymru |
| • MPs | Ben Lake (PC) |
| • MSs | |
| Area | |
• Total | 689 sq mi (1,785 km2) |
| • Rank | 4th |
| Population (2024)[2] | |
• Total | 72,599 |
| • Rank | 19th |
| • Density | 110/sq mi (41/km2) |
| Welsh language(2021) | |
| • Speakers | 45.3% |
| • Rank | 3rd |
| Time zone | UTC+0 (GMT) |
| • Summer (DST) | UTC+1 (BST) |
| ISO 3166 code | GB-CGN |
| GSS code | W06000008 |
| Website | ceredigion |
Ceredigion (Welsh:[kɛrɛˈdɪɡjɔn]ⓘ), historicallyCardiganshire (/ˈkɑːrdɪɡənˌʃɪər,-ʃər/,Welsh:Sir Aberteifi), is acounty in thewest ofWales. It bordersGwynedd across theDyfiestuary to the north,Powys to the east,Carmarthenshire andPembrokeshire to the south, and theIrish Sea to the west.Aberystwyth is the largest settlement and, together withAberaeron, is an administrative centre ofCeredigion County Council.
The county is the second most sparsely populated in Wales, with an area of 688 square miles (1,780 km2) and a population of 71,500; the latter is a decline of 4,492 since the2011 census. After Aberystwyth (15,935), the largest towns areCardigan (4,184) andLampeter (2,970). Ceredigion is considered a centre ofWelsh culture, and as of the 2021 census, 45.3% of the population could speak theWelsh language.
To the west, Ceredigion has 50 miles (80 km) of coastline onCardigan Bay, which is traversed by theCeredigion Coast Path. Its hinterland is hilly and rises to theCambrian Mountains in the east, where the highest point isPlynlimon at 752 metres (2,467 ft). The mountains are the source of the county's main rivers: theRheidol,Ystwyth,Aeron andTeifi; the last of these is Ceredigion's boundary with Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire for most of its length.
Ceredigion is named after aminor kingdom which occupied approximately the area of the county in the fifth century AD. The contemporary county has the same borders as Cardiganshire, which was established in 1282 by the English kingEdward I after hisconquest of Wales. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the county was more industrialised than it is today;lead,silver andzinc were mined in the area, and Cardigan was the largest port in South Wales. The economy later became highly dependent ondairy farming, but as farming becomes less profitable, it is diversifying into areas such as tourism. The county is home to theNational Library of Wales,Aberystwyth University, and the Lampeter campus ofUniversity of Wales Trinity St David.
Ceredigion has been inhabited since prehistoric times. A total of 170 hill forts and enclosures have been identified across the county and there are many standing stones dating back to theBronze Age.[4] Around the time of theRoman invasion of Britain, the area was between the realms of theDemetae andOrdovices. TheSarn Helenroad ran through the territory, withforts atBremia andLoventium protecting gold mines near present-dayLlanddewi Brefi. Following theRoman withdrawal,Irishraids and invasions were repulsed, supposedly by the forces under anortherner namedCunedda. The 9th-centuryHistory of the Britons attributed toNennius records that Cunedda's sonCeredig settled the area around the Teifi in the 5th century.[5] The territory supposedly remaineda minor kingdom under his dynasty until its extinction upon the drowning ofGwgon ap Meurigc. 871, after which it was administered byRhodri Mawr ofGwynedd before passing to his sonCadell, whose sonHywel Dda inherited its neighbouring kingdomDyfed and established the realm ofDeheubarth. Records are highly obscure; some historians believe thatHyfaidd ap Bledrig, the Dyfed ruler, may have annexed Ceredigion before his heirs lost it to Hywel through war.
Many pilgrims passed through Cardiganshire on their way toSt Davids. Some came by sea and made use of the churches atMwnt andPenbryn, while others came by land seeking hospitality at such places asStrata Florida Abbey. Both the abbey andLlanbadarn Fawr were important monastic sites of scholarship and education. Place names includingysbyty denote their association with pilgrims.[6]
In 1282,Edward I of England conquered the principality of Wales and divided the area into counties. One of thirteentraditional counties in Wales. Cardiganshire was split into the fivehundreds of Genau'r-Glyn, Ilar, Moyddyn, Penarth and Troedyraur.[7][8]
Much later, Cardiganshire was designated as avice-county.
Pen-y-wenallt was home to 17th century theologian and author,Theophilus Evans.[9] In the 18th century there was an evangelical revival of Christianity, andnonconformism became established in the county as charismatic preachers likeDaniel Rowland ofLlangeitho attracted large congregations. Every community built its own chapel or meeting house, and Cardiganshire became one of the centres ofMethodism in Wales; theAeron Valley was at the centre of the revival.[10]
Cardigan was one of the major ports of southern Wales until its harbour silted in the mid-19th century. TheIndustrial Revolution passed by, not much affecting the area. In the uplands, wheeled vehicles were rare in the 18th century, and horses andsleds were still being used for transport. On the coast, herrings and corn were traded across the Irish Sea. In the 19th century, many of the rural poor emigrated to theNew World from Cardigan, between five and six thousand leaving the town between 1790 and 1860. Aberystwyth became the main centre for the export oflead and Aberaeron and Newquay did brisk coastal trade. The building of the railway from Shrewsbury in the 1860s encouraged visitors, and hotels sprang up in the town to accommodate them.[11]
This area of the county ofDyfed became adistrict of Wales under the name Ceredigion in 1974 under theLocal Government Act 1972,[12] and since 1996, has formed the county of Ceredigion.[13] According to the2021 census 45.3% of the population can speakWelsh, the third highest proportion afterGwynedd and theIsle of Anglesey. Nevertheless, this was a decline from 47.3% in 2011 and 52% in 2001.[14][15][16]
Ceredigion is a coastal county, bordered byCardigan Bay to the west,Gwynedd to the north,Powys to the east,Carmarthenshire to the south andPembrokeshire to the south-west. Its area is 1,795 square kilometres (693 sq mi).[17] In 2010 the population was 76,938, making it the second most sparsely populated county in Wales.[17]
The main settlements areAberaeron,Aberporth,Aberystwyth,Borth,Cardigan,Lampeter,Llanarth,Llanddewi Brefi,Llandysul,Llanilar,Llanrhystud,Llanon,New Quay, andTregaron. The largest of these are Aberystwyth and Cardigan.[18]
TheCambrian Mountains cover much of the east of the county; this large area forms part of thedesert of Wales. In the south and west, the surface is less elevated. The highest point isPlynlimon (Pumlumon) at 2,467 feet (752 m), otherMarilyns includePen y Garn andLlan Ddu Fawr. On the slopes of Pumlumon five rivers have their sources: theSevern, theWye, theDulas, theLlyfnant and theRheidol, the last of which meets theAfon Mynach in a 300 feet (91 m) plunge at theDevil's Bridge chasm. The largest river is theRiver Teifi which forms the border with Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire for part of its length. The towns of Lampeter, Llandysul, Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan are all in the Teifi Valley, and each has communities on each side of the river, in different counties. Other significant rivers include theRiver Aeron which has its estuary atAberaeron, and theRiver Ystwyth and theRiver Rheidol both of which reach the sea in Aberystwythharbour.[18]
Ceredigion's 50 miles (80 km) of coastline has sandy beaches. In 2011 Ceredigion's beaches were awarded fiveBlue Flag Awards, fourGreen Coast Awards, and fourteenSeaside Awards.[19] Ceredigion is one of only two places in the United Kingdom with a permanent presence ofbottlenose dolphins.[20] Another member of the fauna is thered kite; these may be seen in various localities in the county, but at the Red Kite Feeding Centre near Tregaron, they are fed each day, and large numbers congregate along with hungry crows and other birds.[21]
Between 1991 and 2003 Ceredigion had the largest population growth of any county in Wales, with a 19.5% increase.[22] Tourism and agriculture, chiefly hill farming, are the most important industries. In addition, twouniversities are within the county boundaries:Aberystwyth University and the Lampeter campus of theUniversity of Wales, Trinity Saint David. TheWelsh Plant Breeding Station is near Aberystwyth and linked to the University. TheNational Library of Wales, founded in 1907, is also in Aberystwyth. Ceredigion is an extremely rural county; the largest town, Aberystwyth, has fewer than 15,000 permanent residents and the remainder of the population of the county is scattered over 150 small towns, villages and hamlets.[23] According to the2011 UK census the population of Ceredigion was around 75,900. By the time the2021 UK census was taken this had fallen by 5.8% to 71,500.
The county has no large commercial areas. The nearest substantial settlements are located at least 1 hour 45 minutes drive away. Approximate road distances from Ceredigion's largest town, Aberystwyth, are:Swansea, 75 miles (121 km) to the south;Shrewsbury, 76 miles (122 km) to the east, in theEnglish county ofShropshire; andWrexham, 82 miles (132 km) to the northeast. The capital,Cardiff, is over 100 miles (160 km) from most parts of the county. Although Ceredigion and Gwynedd share a boundary, it is not possible to travel directly between the two by land as all road and rail links avoid the Dyfi estuary and pass through Dyfi Junction orMachynlleth in Powys.[18]
Between 1889 and 1974, the county was governed byCardiganshire County Council, which took over the local government functions of thequarter sessions.[13] The county council was abolished in 1974 by theLocal Government Act 1972, with the area becoming the lower-tierdistrict of Ceredigion within the larger county ofDyfed.[24] Until 1974, Cardiganshire had been governed locally bycivil parishes; these in large part equated toecclesiastical parishes, most of which still exist as part of the Church in Wales.[25] Further local government reform under theLocal Government (Wales) Act 1994 saw the area become aunitary authority on 1 April 1996. The 1994 act specified that the reformed council was to have both a Welsh and an English name: Sir Aberteifi / Cardiganshire. Before the new arrangements came into force the incoming council resolved to change the name to Ceredigion in both languages. The government agreed the change of name, which took effect on 2 April 1996, one day after the new authority formally came into being.[26][27][12]
Areferendum was held on 20 May 2004 on whether to have adirectly elected mayor for the county, which would have been the first in Wales. TheLlais Ceredigion political initiative had been formed with this aim,[28] but the proposal was rejected.[29]
As of 2024, the council leader is Bryan Davies ofPlaid Cymru.[30]
The entire county is aSenedd constituency, with itsMember of the Senedd beingElin Jones (Plaid Cymru) for theCeredigion constituency.[31]
At Westminster, all of Ceredigion is in theCeredigion Preseli constituency since 2024, replacingCeredigion.[32][33] WithBen Lake (Plaid Cymru) being re-elected as theMember of Parliament in the2024 election.[34]
Farming has traditionally been the basis of Cardiganshire's economy, with dairying and stock-rearing being the main occupations. Before the first railway was built in 1866, the stock used to be herded over the mountains to England, whereRugby,Northampton and London were important destinations. At one time there was a sizeable mining industry in Cardiganshire, but the reserves of lead, silver and zinc became unprofitable to mine by the early 20th century. Shipping was also important in the county, with coal and lime being imported in coastal vessels, and mineral ores and oak bark fortanning being exported.Shipbuilding was an important industry: most of Wales' sailing vessels were built in Cardiganshire.[17]
Cardiganshire had a substantial population in the early modern period, but this declined during the 19th century as wider social and economic developments affected all aspects of Cardiganshire life. Traditional industries were in decline, agriculture was in decline and it was becoming increasingly difficult for a still-rising population to earn a living within their native parishes and communities. By the first half of the 20th century, falling livestock prices and greater international competition made farming unprofitable. Many residents of Cardiganshire moved to other parts of South Wales, where there were better employment opportunities, and many more emigrated to the United States, Canada, Patagonia and Australia.[17] Furthermore, the owners of the great landed estates, who had for so long dominated the politics of the county, were in many cases heavily in debt. This led to the loss of landowner influence in the running of the county; this became very apparent at the first elections to theCardiganshire County Council in 1889.[35]
By the second half of the 20th century, the population was increasing again. More retired people were arriving to make their home in the tranquil surroundings, and after the Beacham Commission in the 1960s, the British government realised that the rural way of life in parts of Wales was in crisis, and started to react. Through government initiatives and local actions, opportunities in tourism, rural crafts, specialist food shops, farmers' markets and added-value food products began to emerge.[17] However, in 2011, at 3.1%, Ceredigion still had one of the highest proportions of its population working in agriculture, forestry and fishing, close behind such other places asOrkney andShetland.[36] Exposed, marginal land is also used forwind farms:Cefn Croes Wind Farm nearDevil's Bridge has 39 turbines and a nominal capacity of 58.5 MW.[37]
Farm incomes have been in decline over the years; and, as well as being aEuropean Objective I area, in 2001 Ceredigion was designated a regional "Tourist growth area" by theWales Tourist Board.[23] There is little industry other than farming, so tourism plays an important part in the county's economy. Visitors stay in hotels, guest houses and homes offering bed-and-breakfast, self-catering cottages, caravans and camp sites; they spend money in local shops, dine in local establishments and visit the county's many attractions. Ceredigion prides itself on offering an unspoilt natural landscape, and Aberystwyth claims to be the capital of Welsh culture.[38]
TheNational Library of Wales[39] is at Aberystwyth and there is information on local history at theCeredigion Museum.[39] There is a technical museumInternal Fire – Museum of Power, which is atTan-y-groes near the coast road.[40] Stately homes in the county open to the public include theHafod Estate[41] andLlanerchaeron.[39] It is home to theAberystwyth Arts Centre.[42]
The county is rich in archaeological remains such as forts, earthworks and standing stones. Historic sites that can be accessed includeAberystwyth Castle[39] andCardigan Castle,[43] as well asStrata Florida Abbey.[44] Other visitor attractions include theCwmystwyth Mines,Llywernog Mine,Devil's Bridge,[39] the Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre,[39][45]Elvis Rock,Cors Caron (Tregaron bog), theVale of Rheidol Railway,[39] and theAberystwyth Cliff Railway.[39]
Leisure activities available in the county include beach activities, rambling, cycling, sea fishing, canoeing, sailing and horse riding. Many of the towns and villages along the coast have small harbours and facilities for sailing, dolphin watching and other maritime activities. TheCeredigion Coast Path from Cardigan toYnyslas runs about 60 miles (97 km) along the coast with spectacular scenery. It can conveniently be divided into seven sections.[46] WhenDylan Thomas lived in New Quay and Talsarn, he frequented Aberaeron and Lampeter. TheDylan Thomas Trail links places associated with him.[47]Peaceful Places is a heritage tourism trail connecting churches and chapels in North Ceredigion.[48]
The Welsh Government's Visit Wales website describes theRiver Teifi as "one of the major game rivers of Wales,"[49] although there has been concern that salmon stocks are in decline.[50] There are a series of rapids near Llandysul where canoeing, kayaking and white water rafting take place.[51]
The county's main football team,Aberystwyth Town in theCymru Premier, play their home matches atPark Avenue Stadium.[52] Cardigan Town Football Club, also known as the "Magpies", play in Division 1 of the Ceredigion League.[53]
TheCambrian Line provides main line railway services betweenAberystwyth,Shrewsbury andBirmingham, where passengers can join services for London and elsewhere. Passengers can change atDovey Junction for trains along theCambrian Coast Line toPwllheli.[54]
There are no motorways in Ceredigion; the nearest is the western end of theM4 motorway atPont Abraham, nearPontarddulais inCarmarthenshire. TheFishguard toBangortrunk road, theA487, travels in a north-east direction following the coast from Cardigan toNew Quay, throughAberaeron andAberystwyth. TheA44 travels eastwards fromAberystwyth toLlangurig, before turning south then east throughRhayader,Leominster andWorcester.[55]
There are local bus services between the main centres of population,[56] with long distance services betweenAberystwyth andCardiff, viaAberaeron andLampeter. A bus service known asBwcabus operates in the south of the county, offering customised transport for rural dwellers.[57] TrawsCymru T1 service runs between Aberystwyth and Carmarthen, with some journeys through Aberaeron and Lampeter.
Aberporth Airport, located south-east ofAberporth, is being developed as West Wales Airport for domestic flights within Wales and the rest of theUnited Kingdom. The airport is also developing as a centre for the deployment of civil and militaryunmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs), also known as 'drones'. The airport underwent major improvements in 2008, which extended the length of the runway from 945 to 1,257 m (3,100 to 4,124 ft).[56][58]
Ceredigion Library has a collection oforal history interviews with people from Ceredigion during the 1960s and 1970s. The recordings were archived, digitised, catalogued and made available during theUnlocking Our Sound Heritage project at theNational Library of Wales.[59]
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