Calas (/kəˈlɑː/) aredumplings composed primarily of cookedrice,yeast,sugar,eggs, andflour; the resulting batter isdeep-fried. It is traditionally abreakfast dish, served withcoffee orcafe au lait,[1] and has a mention in mostCreole cuisine cookbooks. Calas are also referred to as Creole ricefritters or ricedoughnuts.
The origin of calas is most often credited to slaves who came from rice-growing regions of Africa.[2][3] A 1653 French recipe,beignets de riz, lends support to a French origin as well.[4] The name "calas" is said to have come from theNupe wordkara ("fried cake").[5]
Belles calas...Belles calas,
Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho!
Madame, mo gaignin calas,
Madame, mo gaignin calas,
Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho![a]
Creolestreet vendors, typically women,[b] sold the fresh hot calas inNew Orleans'French Quarter, with thecry, "Bel calas tout chauds!" (Creole for "Beautiful calas, still hot"). These vendors, called "calas women", would sell theirpastries in the early morning from covered baskets or bowls carried upon their heads.[1][7]
Writers in the first decade of the 20th century refer to the increasing rarity of calas as street food.[7][8] Though not widely sold, calas continued to be made at home using leftover rice, and was a typical breakfast food in early 20th-century New Orleans.[9][5]
After World War II, while thebeignet remained popular, the calas became more and more obscure. From a breakfast food it evolved into aMardi Gras andFirst Communion treat among Louisiana Creole families.[4][5] It could be specially requested at some restaurants.[10] Through the efforts of food preservationists, interest in calas was revived and it began to appear on the menus of some restaurants.[9][11]
In early recipes for calas, rice was boiled and cooled, then yeast added to make a sponge that was allowed to proof overnight. From this a batter was made by adding eggs, sugar and a little flour for binding. Rice flour was preferable but difficult to obtain, according to Eustis. A dash of salt might be included, and a grating of nutmeg was a typical addition. The batter was dropped by spoonfuls into deep, boilinglard and fried until browned.[1][7] Modern recipes reflect the changes in available ingredients, cooking practices, and taste. Baking powder is sometimes used in place of yeast; vegetable oil is substituted for lard; savory variations have been developed.[5][9]
