 | |
| Formerly | H. & D. H. Brooks & Co. (1818–1850) |
|---|---|
| Company type | Subsidiary |
| Industry | Retail |
| Genre | Fashion |
| Founded | April 7, 1818; 207 years ago (1818-04-07) |
| Founder | Henry Sands Brooks |
| Headquarters | 1180 Madison Avenue, New York City ,U.S. |
Number of locations | 170 (2021) |
| Products | |
| Parent | SPARC Group (2020-2025) Catalyst Brands (2025-Present) |
| Website | brooksbrothers.com brooksbrothers.eu |
Brooks Brothers Inc. is a luxury American clothing brand founded in 1818 which is the oldest apparel brand in continuous operation in the United States.[1] Originally afamily business, as of 2025 it is owned byCatalyst Brands,[2][3] along withJCPenney,Aéropostale,Eddie Bauer,Lucky Brand Jeans, andNautica.[4][5][6] Brooks Brothers imports clothing for men, women and children, and licenses its name and branding toLuxottica for eyewear,[7] Interparfums for fragrances,[8] and Turko Textiles for its home collection.[9]
On April 7, 1818, at the age of 45,Henry Sands Brooks opened H. & D. H. Brooks & Co. on the northeast corner of Catherine St andCherry St inManhattan. He proclaimed that his guiding principle was, "To make and deal only in merchandise of the finest body, to sell it at a fair profit, and to deal with people who seek and appreciate such merchandise."[10] In 1833, his four sons, Elisha, Daniel, Edward, and John, inherited the family business and in 1850 renamed the company "Brooks Brothers."[11]
TheGolden Fleece symbol was adopted as the company's trademark in 1850. A wooly sheep suspended in a ribbon had long been a symbol of British woolen merchants. Dating from the fifteenth century, the image had been the emblem of theKnights of the Golden Fleece, founded byPhilip the Good, Duke ofBurgundy.[12]
In its early history, Brooks Brothers was known for introducing theready-to-wearsuit to American customers. In the mid-nineteenth century, Brooks Brothers outfittedUnited States PresidentAbraham Lincoln and considered him a loyal customer.[13] At hissecond inauguration, Lincoln wore a coat specially crafted for him by Brooks Brothers. Hand-stitched into the coat's lining was a design featuring an eagle and the inscription,"One Country, One Destiny". He was wearing the coat and a Brooks Brothers suit when he wasassassinated.[14][15] As a supplier of soldiers' uniforms during the Civil War, Brooks Brothers became a target of outrage for its allegedly shoddy production. With a contract from New York State to supply uniforms for the New York Volunteers, Brooks Brothers took shredded and sometimes decaying rags, glued them together and stitched them into uniforms. They would fall apart in the rain and were the subject of ridicule from other regiments.[16]
According toJames Murray (primary editor of theOxford English Dictionary from 1879 until his death in 1915) Brook Brothers were allegedly responsible for bringing "shoddy" into American usage.[17]
The last member of the Brooks family to head the company was Winthrop Holley Brooks, who ran the company from 1935 until its sale in 1946, when the company was acquired byJulius Garfinckel & Co. Although Winthrop Brooks remained with the company as a figurehead after the acquisition, John C. Wood became the director of Brooks Brothers. Just prior to that, Wood had been the carrier of the papers for theDumbarton Oaks Conference.[18] Under the leadership of Wood, Brooks Brothers became even more traditional. Wood notably stated "They call us conservative, but we think that our styles are simply lacking the bizarre. We deal in what a man should wear, not what some women think he should wear."[19] In 1915 the company opened what would become its flagship store and headquarters at 346Madison Avenue in New York.[20]
During much of the 20th Century, a subsidiary of Brooks Brothers, the Brooks Costume Company, provided costumes to the Ringling Bros - Barnum & Bailey Circus.[21][22]
By 1971, eleven Brooks Brothers stores were in operation and located inManhattan,Chicago,Boston,San Francisco,Pittsburgh,Los Angeles,Atlanta,Washington, D.C., andSt. Louis as an integral part of the retail conglomerateGarfinckel, Brooks Brothers, Miller & Rhoads, Inc., that held the company until 1981 when it was acquired byAllied Stores.
Ralph Lauren began his career as a salesman at the Brooks Brothers Madison Avenue store.[23] Brooks Brothers later suedPolo Ralph Lauren to retain its rights to the original polobutton-down collar shirt.
Brooks Brothers was acquired by the British firmMarks & Spencer in 1988. In the mid 1990s, the company's executives removed the signature Golden Fleece logo from the brand's cotton knit polo shirts, though it was later restored.[24]
In 1998, Brooks Brothers launched its official website.
In 2001, Marks & Spencer sold Brooks Brothers to Retail Brand Alliance (RBA), now known as The Brooks Brothers Group, a company privately owned by Italian billionaireClaudio Del Vecchio (son ofLuxottica founderLeonardo del Vecchio).[25] Along with Brooks Brothers, RBA comprised Carolee, a designer of jewelry for department stores and specialty stores.[26] In 2007, RBA sold its high-end women's brandAdrienne Vittadini.
In September 2007, Brooks Brothers's then CEO, Claudio Del Vecchio, announced the unveiling of a high-end collection of men's and women's wear named Black Fleece. Del Vecchio announced that the first star guest designer for the new collection would be New York menswear designerThom Browne.[27] Black Fleece received so much critical and commercial success that Brooks Brothers opened a stand-alone Black Fleece boutique onBleecker Street in the Winter of 2008.[28] However the line used a confusing sizing range (such as size "BB 0") and was discontinued in 2015.[29] Brooks Brothers next released a line of clothing catering to Asian clientele.[28]
In 2008, the company began an extensive renovation of its flagship store at 346 Madison Avenue.[30] In January 2009, Brooks Brothers closed a smaller location at Fifth Avenue and 53rd Street in Manhattan.[citation needed]
In April 2010, Brooks Brothers launched a line of luxury home furnishings which includes bedding, bath towels, as well as living room décor and entertaining accessories.
As of 2015, there were 210 Brooks Brothers stores in the United States and 70 in other countries, including Australia, India, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, Japan, China, France, Spain, the United Kingdom, Chile, Canada, Panama, Italy, the Philippines, Poland, Mexico, UAE, Peru, Singapore, Switzerland,[31] Indonesia, Malaysia, Greece, and Vietnam. Most of its clothing was imported, but some suits, sport coats, shirts and accessories were manufactured in the United States. Many of its mid-range "1818" line of suits were manufactured at Brooks Brothers' Southwick plant inHaverhill, Massachusetts.[32] All Brooks Brothers necktie silk was woven in England or Italy, and the ties were still are "cut and piled" at the Brooks Brothers' tie factory inLong Island City, New York. Brooks also had a series of books on etiquette and manners for ladies and gentlemen. The Garland Shirt Company produced the Brooks Brothers' iconic twill button-down oxford.[33] Its higher-end label was the Golden Fleece line which features suits that are tailored in the United States.[34]
Between 2017 and 2019, sales stagnated at around $1 billion due to business fashion turning more casual and online competition.[35] In May 2020, it was reported that Brooks Brothers was seeking a buyer. Reports also suggest the company was exploring a bankruptcy filing.[36] In June, the company proposed closing its three American factories, "a dramatic move for a brand that has really hung their hat on 'Made in America.'"[35] Del Vecchio, who was responsible for acquiring the factory in Massachusetts, said at the time that the U.S. factories never made any money and that the brand carried a debt of less than $300 million.[35]
On July 8, 2020, it was reported the company was filing forChapter 11 bankruptcy primarily due to theeconomic impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Brooks Brothers planned to close 51 of its 250 locations in North America.[37] The closures included the flagship Madison Avenue store which never reopened. Its inventory was moved to other locations[20] and the building was listed for sale the following year.[38]
In September 2020 Brooks Brothers was purchased by ajoint venture betweenAuthentic Brands Group andSimon Property Group.[39] The new owners committed to continue operating at least 125 Brooks Brothers retail locations in the US, and more worldwide (down from 424 global locations before theCOVID-19 pandemic).[40] The transaction was completed in September 2020.[41][42] Ken Ohashi was also appointed as President and Chief Executive Officer in September 2020.[43]
On December 1, 2020, designerMichael Bastian was named as the brand's creative director.[44] In late 2023 a new affordable line was introduced, "B by Brooks Brothers", and sold throughMacy's.[45]
On 24 April 2024, Ted Baker Canada, the operator of Brooks Brothers stores in Canada, filed for creditor protection in Canada andChapter 15 bankruptcy in the U.S. The company blamed the operation suppliers of Authentic Brands Group for failure to pay. As a result, it was announced that all Brooks Brothers stores in Canada would close.[46]
In May 2025, Brooks Brothers opened a new flagship store in the Lower Manhattan neighborhood where the first store opened in 1818 at Catherine and Cherry Streets.[47] The new 10,000 square-foot, 2-story flagship store at 195 Broadway features historical Brooks Brothers pieces such as the glasses worn by founder Henry Sands Brooks and a recreation of the coat Abraham Lincoln wore at his inauguration.[48]
Brooks Brothers introduced many clothing advances to the American market throughout its history as a leader in the American menswear industry.
Brooks Brothers did not make an off-the-rack black suit between 1865 and 2003.[67] For many years, a myth circulated that the reason the company did not make black suits was out of deference toAbraham Lincoln, who wore abespoke black Brooksfrock coat, a gift from the company, when he wasassassinated. It is not clear if this policy was the result or cause of the traditional American fashion rule that black suits in daytime for men are proper only for servants and when honoring the deceased.[68]
Brooks Brothers is a sponsor and the official suit designers and distributors of Italian football clubInter Milan.[69] From 2010 to 2019, the company was a sponsor and official apparel supplier of theHead of the Charles Regatta.[70]
Brooks Brothers has outfitted everyAmerican president sinceJames Madison, with the exceptions ofJimmy Carter andRonald Reagan.[13][71][72][73][74]
In 1865, PresidentAbraham Lincoln wore a custom-made Brooks Brothers frock coat to hisSecond inauguration. Lincoln later wore the same frock coat on theevening of his assassination.[71]
In the late nineteenth century, Brooks Brothers tailored uniforms for elite regiments of theNew York National Guard, as well as uniforms for New York state troops and Union officers during the Civil War.[75] Several Generals includingUlysses S. Grant,William Sherman,Joseph Hooker andPhilip Sheridan purchased uniforms from Brooks Brothers.[76]
In 1881, after becoming vice-president of the United States,Chester A. Arthur went on a Brooks Brothers shopping spree.[77][full citation needed] PresidentsUlysses S. Grant,Woodrow Wilson, andTheodore Roosevelt all wore Brooks Brothers to their respective inaugurations as well.
In 1945, PresidentFranklin D. Roosevelt wore Brooks Brothers while on his way to meetJoseph Stalin andWinston Churchill at theYalta Conference.[19]
In 1963, PresidentJohn F. Kennedy was wearing a Brooks Brothers' grey suit whenhe was assassinated.[71]
In 2009, PresidentBarack Obama wore a Brooks Brothers coat, scarf, and gloves during his inauguration in 2009 (this coat was later re-worn by Obama to Trump's inauguration in 2017).[78][79] In 2013, duringhis second inauguration, Obama wore a suit designed byMartin Greenfield, paired with a white shirt from Brooks Brothers.[71]
In 2017, PresidentDonald Trump wasinaugurated in a grey suit, white shirt, and dark blue overcoat. The white shirt and overcoat were believed to have been designed by Brooks Brothers.Melania Trump andIvanka Trump have also been seen wearing items of clothing from Brooks Brothers at times.[71][72]
In 2021, PresidentJoe Biden broke tradition by not wearing any items from Brooks Brothers athis inauguration, instead opting for aRalph Lauren navy suit and winter overcoat. However, Biden does wear Brooks Brothers shirts and suits. He is also known to frequent casualwear from the brand such as polos and sweaters.[80]
French politician and former presidentJacques Chirac (1932–2019) bought his shirts at theMadison Avenue shop.[81]
Brooks Brothers is the official clothier of theJazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra.[82]
Andy Warhol was known to buy and wear clothes from Brooks Brothers. According to Carlton Walters: "I got to [know] Andy quite well, and he always looked bedraggled: always had his tie lopsided, as he didn't have time to tie it, and he never tied his shoe laces, and he even wore different colored socks, but he bought all of his clothes at Brooks Brothers."[83]
Brooks Brothers is referenced in the opening line of the lyrics to "Harvard Blues", written byGeorge Frazier and popularized byCount Basie and Jimmy Rushing in the 1940s. The song begins with the lyric "I wear Brooks clothes and white shoes all the time" and goes on to portray the protagonist of the song as a privileged but idlebon vivant.[84]
The "white" shirts used forArchie Bunker's costumes inAll in the Family were recut tan oxford shirts from Brooks Brothers.[85]
Brooks Brothers supplied clothes for the television showMad Men; in October 2009, Brooks Brothers created a limited edition "Mad Men Edition" suit with the show's costume designer.[86]
Stephen Colbert had all of his suits forThe Colbert Report andThe Late Show with Stephen Colbert supplied by Brooks Brothers.[87]
Brooks Brothers frequently is sought out by costume designers in Hollywood, dressing stars in such films asBen Affleck inPearl Harbor,Gene Hackman inThe Royal Tenenbaums, andWill Smith inAli.[88] The company produced made-to-measure period costumes for Denzel Washington'sThe Great Debaters.[89]
George Clooney wears Brooks Brothers throughout the filmUp in the Air, and scenes were shot in a Brooks Brothers airport store.[90] The men of the filmThe Adjustment Bureau wear Brooks Brothers.[91] In November 2011, Brooks Brothers announced that it had designed a custom wardrobe forKermit the Frog for the movieThe Muppets. The stars ofSlumdog Millionaire were all dressed by Brooks Brothers for the81st Academy Awards.[92]
Brooks Brothers made all of the men's costumes, more than 500 pieces, for the 2013 adaptation ofThe Great Gatsby.[93] They also sponsored the premieres in New York City and Cannes Film Festival. This was followed by a limited edition collection designed with Catherine Martin and sold at Brooks Brothers stores around the world.[94][95]
Chuck Bass andNate Archibald on theGossip Girl TV series frequently wear clothes from Brooks Brothers.[90]
Alec Baldwin's titular character in the 1994 filmThe Shadow was complimented on his Brooks Brothers tie by his adversaryShiwan Khan. At their next meeting, Khan is dressed in Brooks Brothers clothing.[96]
In the 2020 filmTenet, whenJohn David Washington meetsSir Michael Caine for lunch at a posh London members' club, Caine's character dismissively states: "Brooks Brothers won't cut it."[97]
The lead characterLestat de Lioncourt inAnne Rice'sVampire Chronicles often describes himself wearing suits by Brooks Brothers.[98]
Mary McCarthy's short story "The Man in the Brooks Brothers Shirt," which can be found in her collectionThe Company she keeps, 1942, is one of the more famous literary references to the Brooks Brothers.[99]
WritersJohn O'Hara,Somerset Maugham andJ. P. Marquand incorporated Brooks Brothers into their stories as a means to draw out character traits.[100]
Richard Yates not only wore Brooks Brothers clothing throughout his life,[101] but he often referred to the brand in his writing, including inA Good School, in which one of the characters tries to hang himself with a Brooks Brothers belt.[102]
WriterTom Wolfe makes repeated mentions of Brooks Brothers in his essays on style and status.[103]
In Kathryn Stockett's novelThe Help, Skeeter wears one of her father's Brooks Brothers shirts.[104]
Stuyvesant, the Director of theSecret Service inLee Child's novelWithout Fail only wears Brooks Brothers suits.[105]
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