Mount Brandon (and the Brandon Group) | |
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![]() Mount Brandon photographed from Brandon Peak, with its distinctive east–west contrast. | |
Highest point | |
Elevation | 951.7 m (3,122 ft)[1][2][3] |
Prominence | 934 m (3,064 ft)[1] |
Parent peak | Carrauntoohil |
Isolation | 26.7 miles (43.0 km) |
Listing | P600,Marilyn,Furth,Hewitt,Arderin,Simm,Vandeleur-Lynam |
Coordinates | 52°14′06″N10°15′16″W / 52.235113°N 10.254336°W /52.235113; -10.254336[1] |
Naming | |
Native name | Cnoc Bréanainn |
English translation | Brendan's hill |
Geography | |
Parent range | Brandon Group[1] |
OSI/OSNI grid | Q4604211605 |
Topo map | OSIDiscovery 70[3] |
Geology | |
Rock age | Devonian[1] |
Mountain type | Purple sandstone & siltstone[1] |
Climbing | |
Easiest route | Saint's Route (Cosán na Naomh) |
Mount Brandon orBrandon (Irish:Cnoc Bréanainn, meaning 'Brendan's hill'),[4] at 952 metres (3,123 ft), is one of the ten highest peaks in Ireland, being the 8th–highest peak inIreland on theArderin list, and the 9th–highest on theVandeleur-Lynam list.[5] Brandon is the highest Irish mountain outside theMacGillycuddy's Reeks range and has the greatestprominence of any Irish peak exceptCarrauntoohil, Ireland's highest mountain.[5]
Mount Brandon is at the centre of a long high ridge called theBrandon Group range of mountains in theDingle Peninsula inCounty Kerry. The ridge contains seven other major peaks (i.e. above 2,000 ft in height); one is the similarly namedBrandon Peak (840 metres).[5][6] The positioning and dimensions of the Brandon Group ridge have made it the scene of several air accidents over the years.[7] The mountain, and range, is named afterSaint Brendan, and is the end of aChristian pilgrimage trail known asCosán na Naomh. It is also well regarded for hill walking with routes such as the 4–5-hourFaha Route (also calledThe Pilgrim's Path), and the 6–7-hour traverse of the entire range known as "one of the finest ridgewalks in Ireland".[6][5][8]
Brandon is composed of sandstone particles of various sizes collectively known asOld Red Sandstone.[7] Old Red Sandstone has a purple–reddish colour, and has virtually no fossils.[7][9] The colour gave its name to nearbyPurple Mountain.[7] The composition ofOld Red Sandstone is variable and contains quartz stones, mudstones, siltstones, and sandstone particles (conglomerate rock boulders with quartz pebbles are visible).[7] They are described by theGeological Survey of Ireland as the oldestDevonian rocks in Ireland.[10]
Mount Brandon itself is in the middle of a long and highridge known as theBrandon Group,[4] which runs north–south for 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) across the width of the Dingle peninsula. As well as Mount Brandon, the Brandon Group ridge has seven other major classified peaks (see list below), including the similarly namedBrandon Peak 840 metres (2,760 ft),Benagh 822 metres (2,697 ft),Faha Ridge 809 metres (2,654 ft),Gearhane 803 metres (2,635 ft),Masatiompan 762 metres (2,500 ft),Piaras Mór 746 metres (2,448 ft), andAn Scraig 623 metres (2,044 ft).
The most distinctive aspect of the Brandon Group is the contrast between the gentle grassy slopes on its western side, and the sharp cliffs and deepcorries of its eastern side; an effect that the Brandon Group's long north–south ridge exactly separates.[6]Mount Brandon owes its craggy shape to the work ofglaciers during theice age, which gouged out a series ofcorries on the eastern flank of the mountain. The summit of Mount Brandon is rounded and smooth as it was likely anunatuk (likeLugnaquilla in Wicklow), and presents a stark contrast to Brandon Peak, orBarr an Ghéaráin, which isalpine in appearance.[6]
On Brandon's deep eastern corrie, flanked by Faha Ridge to its north, is a series of rocky plateaus, each of which has a smallpaternoster lake; over ten lakes grow in size descending the mountain.[11] From highest they are, the Locha Chom an Chnoic (Coumaknock Loughs), Loch na Lice (Lough Nalacken) and Loch Cruite (Lough Cruttia).[6][11] This corrie's natural environment, and positioning on theFaha Route, means it is regularly photographed.[6]
Brandon is the340th–highest mountain, and 10th most prominent mountain, in Britain and Ireland, on theSimms classification.[12] Brandon is regarded by theScottish Mountaineering Club ("SMC") as one of 34Furths, which is a mountain above 3,000 ft (914 m) in elevation, and meets the other SMC criteria for aMunro (e.g. "sufficient separation"), but which is outside of (orfurth) Scotland; Brandon is referred to as one of the 13Irish Munros.[13][14]
Brandon's prominence qualifies for theP600 classification. Both Brandon and Brandon Peak, meet the Britain and IrelandMarilyn classification.[12] Brandon is the 3rd highest mountain, and Brandon Peak is the 9th highest mountain, in theMountainViews Online Database,100 Highest Irish Mountains.[15][5]
The mountain is called Brandon Mountain, Mount Brandon and Brandon on various maps.[4]
Brandon takes its name fromSaint Brendan the Navigator, orBréanainn, who is said to have been born in what is now County Kerry in 484 AD, and is chiefly known for his legendary voyage in a boat of wood and leather to discover the "Isle of the Blessed", also calledSaint Brendan's Island.[16] In the story of Brendan's life (titled, theBeatha Bhréanainn, or the Latin version, theVita Brendani), he spent three days fasting on the mountain before his voyage, was visited by an angel, and experienced a vision of "a great land to the west";[17][18] the mountain is described as being surrounded by the ocean, which fits with the topography of Mount Brandon.[4]
Irish academic Paul Tempan wrote in his 2010Irish Hill and Mountain Names, that it is likely that the mountain was a source of pilgrimage even before both St. Brendan and the arrival of Christianity altogether.[4] Its importance may be due to the fact that, being so far west and so high, it is the place where the sun can be seen the latest as it sinks below the horizon.[4] Tempan notes that the medieval story about Brendan's life calls the mountainSliabh nDaidche in the Irish version, orMons Aitche in the Latin version; and that the Irish academic Dr Alan Mac an Bhaird, had translated this as "mountain of Faithche", as Brandon stands in the Faha townland.[4] However, some believe that theMons Aitche name refers toSlieve Aughty, rather than to Mount Brandon.[19]
Some sources link the name with the voyages ofBran mac Febail, however, this is considered less likely.[20]
The quickest and easiest route to the summit of Mount Brandon is from the west via the final stages of the medieval pilgrim path,The Saint's Route (Irish:Cosán na Naomh), which begins 18 kilometres (11 mi) away in Ventry.[21] The route starts from the car park of Ballybrack (Irish:Baile Breac) (W434094), and follows the straight grassy path, marked by large crosses, to the summit of Mount Brandon; then retracing back to Ballybrack. The 8-kilometre (5.0 mi) route takes 3–4 hours.[22][23] A longer 5-hour variation is to continue north along the summit ridge from Mount Brandon to Piaras Mor, and then descend to Ballyknockane.[24]
A scenic variation is the 9-kilometre (5.6 mi) 4–5-hourFaha Route, thePilgrim's Path,[a] which starts from the east via the car park at theFaha Grotto (Q493119) just outsideCloghane. The route to the summit is marked, and offers views of the deepcorries and paternoster lakes on Brandon's glaciated east face. It follows a trail below the Faha Ridge to the summit; then retracing back toFaha Grotto.[25][26]
The full ridge walk of the entire Mount Brandon range, regarded as "one of the finest ridge walks in Ireland", crosses the full 15-kilometre (9.3 mi) ridge of the Brandon Group from the Conor Pass to Masatiompan and takes 6–7 hours.[6] The route from the Conor Pass to Mount Brandon and back to the Conor Pass is even longer, at 21 kilometres (13 mi) and takes up to 8 hours to complete.[6]
The following is a download from theMountainViews Online Database, who list 15 Brandon Group peaks over 100 metres.
Height Rank | Prom. Rank | Name | Irish Name (if different) | Translation | Height (m) | Prom. (m) | Height (ft) | Prom. (ft) | Topo Map | OSI Grid Reference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | Brandon[1] | Cnoc Bréanainn | Brendan's Hill | 952 | 934 | 3,122 | 3,064 | 70 | Q460116 |
2 | 13 | Brandon North Top[27] | — | — | 895 | 23 | 2,938 | 76 | 70 | Q461125 |
3 | 14 | Brandon Far North Top[28] | — | — | 840 | 17 | 2,756 | 57 | 70 | Q459128 |
4 | 3 | Brandon Peak[29] | Barr an Ghéaráin | Top of the Fang[b] | 840 | 190 | 2,756 | 623 | 70 | Q472095 |
5 | 6 | Benagh[30] | Binn Faiche | Peak of Faha[c] | 822 | 57 | 2,697 | 187 | 70 | Q469119 |
6 | 8 | Faha Ridge[31] | Na Poirt | The Fortifications | 809 | 44 | 2,654 | 144 | 70 | Q464120 |
7 | 10 | Gearhane[32] | An Géarán | The Fang | 803 | 26 | 2,635 | 85 | 70 | Q468087 |
8 | 11 | Brandon South Top[33] | Faill na nDeamhan | Cliff of the Demons[d] | 790 | 25 | 2,592 | 82 | 70 | Q468107 |
9 | 4 | Masatiompan[34] | Más an Tiompáin | Hollow[e] | 762 | 109 | 2,500 | 358 | 70 | Q465145 |
10 | 9 | Piaras Mór[35] | — | Big Pierce[f] | 746 | 33 | 2,447 | 108 | 70 | Q464136 |
11 | 15 | Piaras Mór thuaidh barr[36] | — | — | 700 | 12 | 2,297 | 38 | 70 | Q464138 |
12 | 2 | Ballysitteragh[37] | An Scraig | Rocky Outcrop[g] | 623 | 218 | 2,044 | 715 | 70 | Q460057 |
13 | 12 | Beennabrack[38] | Binn na mBroc[h] Macha na gCab | Peak of the Badgers[h] Plain of the Beaks | 609 | 24 | 1,996 | 77 | 70 | Q469054 |
14 | 7 | An Bhinn Dubh[39] | — | The Black Peak | 479 | 51 | 1,572 | 166 | 70 | Q483056 |
15 | 5 | Faill an tSáis[40] | — | Cliff of the Noose[i] | 431 | 106 | 1,413 | 348 | 70 | Q497150 |
Due to its link with Saint Brendan, the mountain is popular withIrish Catholicpilgrims.[4] The mountain's relative height and status of being at an extreme westerly point appears to have been of great importance to Saint Brendan.[17][4] Apilgrimage route calledCosán na Naomh ("The Saints Road") begins atCill Mhic an Domhnaigh (Kilvickadowning) onVentry Strand at the southern end of the Dingle peninsula, and ends atSéipéilín Bréanainn ("Brendan's Oratory") on Brandon's summit.[21][22]Sáipéilín Bréanainn is the remains of a stone building believed to have been used by Saint Brendan. The path to the peak is marked by small white crosses and the peak itself is topped by a large metal cross. It is speculated the pilgrimage originated in pre-Christian times as aLughnasadh ritual.[41][17]
In 1997, the IrishHeritage Council set up the Pilgrim Paths Project to restore walking routes along Irish medieval pilgrimage paths.[42] One of the routes chosen wasCosán na Naomh, and an 18–kilometre way-marked trail was constructed betweenVentry Strand and the grotto at Ballybrack at the foot of Mount Brandon.[20][43] The trail has been developed to the standard required by theIrish Sports Council forNational Waymarked Trails in Ireland.[44] For safety reasons, it was decided not to mark the trail to the end of the medieval route at the summit of Brandon, but to finish at Ballybrack.[45] The starting point at Ventry is one of the places pilgrims would have come ashore.[46] The trail passes a number of important ecclesiastical heritage sites includingGallarus Oratory andKilmalkedar monastic site.[47]
Between 1940 and 1943 a number of Allied and Axis aircraft crashed on Brandon and the Faha Ridge.[7]
The list of peaks of 3000ft or more within the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland outside (furth) of Scotland. There are currently 34 Furths.
Mount Brandon, a great solitary peak on Ireland's west coast, has been a holy site for centuries. Chet Raymo takes the pilgrim's path to the top
Route 22: Brandon Mountain (Faha Ridge)
Mount Brandon: Faha Route
Luftwaffe Focke Wulf 200Condor of KG40 departed Bordeaux in Western France on the morning of 20 August 1940, to carry out weather reconnaissance and pressure readings off the north-west coast of Ireland. As the huge 4 engine aircraft with a crew of 6 straddled the coastline of Mayo, Galway and Clare it developed engine problems and the pilot decided to try and return home. The problems intensified and therefore a decision was made to force land the aircraft at sea rather than attempt to land in the dense fog not knowing exactly where they were. Through the mist one of the crew could just make out Tralee Bay and in particularHogs Head. The pilot, Captain Kurt Mollenhauer, from Cuxhaven, set course due west as the aircraft began to descend in dense fog; they were heading for Mount Brandon.
Capt. Allitt would have had only seconds to react when he would have seen grass below his aircraft at an altitude of approximately 2,000ft. before it impacted into large boulders just below the summit of Mount Brandon. Of the 28 on board, 10 died instantly including Allitt, Noth and Díarmuid Hartigan who was only 70 miles from his home. The crash site was a scene of utter devastation where fire engulfed almost all of the aircraft except the tail section, which bore the registration G–AGES. Amongst the cargo recovered were post from British personnel in Japanese administeredPOW camps in Java. For several months mail continued to be found several miles from the crash site and locals would themselves post the letters to the addressees.
The village of Cloghane had only just about recovered from the B.O.A.C. loss of another Sunderland on 28 July 1943, when tragedy called again 25 days later. Another aircraft came to grief in exactly the same spot and once again with a major loss of life on 22 August 1943. A Royal Air Force Sunderland Flying Boat, DD848, of 201 Squadron, Coastal Command, out of Castle Archdale on Lower Loch Erne, County Fermanagh with a crew of eleven, was intent on hunting U–Boats in The Bay of Biscay but found the inner slopes of Mt. Brandon instead. Again, as on 25 days earlier this area was a scene of carnage with only three survivors.