William Clark visited the area in July 1806 as he traveled east fromThree Forks along theGallatin River. The party camped 3 miles (4.8 km) east of what is now Bozeman, at the mouth of Kelly Canyon. The journal entries from Clark's party briefly describe the future city's location.[11]
In 1863,John Bozeman, a pioneer and frontiersman fromPickens County, Georgia, along with a partner named John Jacob, opened theBozeman Trail, a new northern trail off theOregon Trail leading to the mining town ofVirginia City through the Gallatin Valley and the future location of the city of Bozeman.
John Bozeman, with Daniel Rouse and William Beall,platted the town in August 1864, stating "standing right in the gate of the mountains ready to swallow up all tenderfeet that would reach the territory from the east, with their golden fleeces to be taken care of."[12]Red Cloud's War closed the Bozeman Trail in 1868, but the town's fertile land still attracted permanent settlers.
In 1866,Nelson Story, a successfulVirginia City, Montana, gold miner originally fromOhio, entered the cattle business. Story braved the hostile Bozeman Trail to successfully drive some 1,000 head oflonghorn cattle intoParadise Valley just east of Bozeman. Eluding the U.S. Army, who tried to turn Story back to protect the drive from hostile Indigenous Americans, Story's cattle formed one of the earliest significant herds in Montana's cattle industry.[13] Story established a sizable ranch in the Paradise Valley and holdings in the Gallatin Valley. He later donated land to the state for the establishment of Montana State University.[14]
Fort Ellis was established in 1867 by Captain R. S. LaMotte and two companies of the 2nd Cavalry, after the murder of John Bozeman near the mouth of Mission Creek on Yellowstone River,[15][16] and considerable political disturbance in the area led local settlers and miners to feel a need for added protection. The fort, named forGettysburg casualtyColonel Augustus Van Horne Ellis, was decommissioned in 1886 and few remnants are left at the actual site, now occupied by the Fort Ellis Experimental Station of Montana State University.[17] In addition to Fort Ellis, a short-lived fort,Fort Elizabeth Meagher (also simply known as Fort Meagher), was established in 1867 by volunteer militiamen. This fort was located 8 miles (12.9 km) east of town on Rocky Creek.[18]
In 1864, W.W. Alderson describedGallatin County as "one of the most beautiful and picturesque valleys the eye ever beheld, abounding in springs of clear water." Many tended to agree, and Bozeman quickly garnered the nickname of "The Egypt" of Montana.[19]
After incorporation, the first issue of the weeklyAvant Courier newspaper, the precursor of today'sBozeman Chronicle, was published in Bozeman on September 13, 1871.[20]
Bozeman's main cemetery, Sunset Hills Cemetery, was given to the city in 1872 when the English lawyer and philanthropistWilliam Henry Blackmore purchased the land after his wife Mary Blackmore died of pneumonia in Bozeman in July 1872.[22]
The first library in Bozeman was formed by the Young Men's Library Association in a room above a drugstore in 1872. It later moved to the mayor's office and was taken over by the city in 1890.[22]The firstGrange meeting inMontana Territory was held in Bozeman in 1873.[23] TheNorthern Pacific Railway reached Bozeman from the east in 1883.[24] By 1900, Bozeman's population had reached 3,500.
In 1892, theUnited States Commission of Fish and Fisheries established a fish hatchery on Bridger Creek at the entrance to Bridger Canyon. The fourth oldest fish hatchery in the United States, the facility ceased to be primarily a hatchery in 1966 and became theU.S. Fish and Wildlife Service'sBozeman National Fish Hatchery, later a fish technology and fish health center. The Center receives approximately 5,000 visitors a year observing biologists working on diet testing, feed manufacturing technology, fish diseases, brood stock development and improvement of water quality.[25][26]
Montana State University was established in 1893 as the state'sland-grant college, then named the Agricultural College of the State of Montana. By the 1920s, the institution was known as Montana State College, and in 1965 it becameMontana State University.[28]
Bozeman's first high school, the Gallatin Valley High School, was built on West Main Street in 1902. Later known as Willson School, named for notable Bozeman architectFred Fielding Willson, son ofLester S. Willson, the building still stands today and functions as administrative offices for the Bozeman School District.[29]
In the early 20th century, over 17,000 acres (69 km2) of the Gallatin Valley were planted in ediblepeas harvested for both canning and seed.[30] By the 1920s, canneries in the Bozeman area were major producers of canned peas, and at one point Bozeman produced approximately 75% of all seed peas in the United States.[31] The area was once known as the "Sweet Pea capital of the nation" referencing the prolific edible pea crop. To promote the area and celebrate its prosperity, local business owners began a "Sweet Pea Carnival" that included a parade and queen contest. The annual event lasted from 1906 to 1916. Promoters used the inedible but fragrant and colorfulsweet pea flower as an emblem of the celebration. In 1977 the "Sweet Pea" concept was revived as an arts festival rather than a harvest celebration, growing into a three-day event that is one of the largest festivals in Montana.[30]
The first federal building and Post Office was built in 1915. Many years later, while unused, it became a film location, along with downtown Bozeman, inA River Runs Through It (1992) byRobert Redford, starringBrad Pitt. It is now used byHRDC, a community organization.
In 1986, the 60-acre (24 ha) site of the Idaho Pole Co. on Rouse Avenue was designated aSuperfund site and placed on theNational Priorities List. Idaho Pole treated wood products withcreosote andpentachlorophenol on the site between 1945 and 1997.[32]
TheMuseum of the Rockies was created in 1957 as the gift fromButte physician Caroline McGill and is a part of Montana State University and an affiliate institution of theSmithsonian. It is Montana's premier natural and cultural history museum and houses permanent exhibits on dinosaurs, geology and Montana history, as well as a planetarium and a living history farm.PaleontologistJack Horner was the museum's first curator of paleontology and brought national notice to the museum for his fossil discoveries in the 1980s.[33]
From a rank of sixth in the early [19]80s, Bozeman has grown to become the fourth largest city in Montana.[34][35]
Growth in the Gallatin Valley prompted the Gallatin Airport Authority in 2009 to expand the Gallatin Field Airport with two new gates, an expanded passenger screening area, and a thirdbaggage carousel.[36] Subsequently, Gallatin Field was renamedBozeman Yellowstone International Airport.[37]Bozeman has been one of Montana's fastest growing cities from 1990 into the new millennium, currently growing at a fluctuating rate of 2-3% annually.[38]
In 2009, an explosion destroyed three buildings in the downtown area, killing one.[39]
That same year, city officials were criticized for requesting job applicants provide their user names and passwords to social networking sites.[40]
In 2021, it was reported that median home price in Bozeman were about 75% above the national median, while the median household income was 25% below the national median.[41]
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 19.15 square miles (49.60 km2), of which 19.12 square miles (49.52 km2) is land and 0.03 square miles (0.08 km2) is water.[43]
Bozeman experiences ahumid continental climate (Köppen:Dfb) as it is located in a more humid microclimate setting. Bozeman and the surrounding area receive significantly higher rainfall than much of the central and eastern parts of the state, up to 24 inches (610 mm) of precipitation annually vis-à-vis the 8 to 12 inches (200 to 300 mm) common throughout much of Montana east of the Continental Divide.[44] Combined with fertile soils, this means plant growth is relatively lush. This undoubtedly contributed to the Gallatin Valley's early nickname as the "Valley of the Flowers," as well as the establishment of Montana State University, the state's agricultural college, in the city.[45] Bozeman has cold, snowy winters and relatively warm summers, though due to high elevation, temperature changes from day to night can be significant. The highest temperature ever recorded in Bozeman was 105 °F (40.6 °C) on July 31, 1892. The lowest recorded temperature, −46 °F (−43.3 °C), occurred in 1957 and also 1983.[46]
Unlike most of the country, Bozeman has actually become cooler with the new 1991–2020 normals. Average highs dropped by 1.7 °F (0.94 °C), especially in spring and summer. It has also gotten wetter and snowier.[citation needed]
In 2019, Bozeman experienced unusually warm and dry temperatures during the month of December. Montana State University campus reported a daily average of 0.2 inches (5.1 mm) of precipitation for the month, some of the lowest numbers seen in over 120 years. Montana State University also recorded just over 3 inches (76.2 mm) of snowfall during December, the second lowest snowfall ever recorded. Additionally, maximum temperatures were 2 °F (1 °C) warmer and lowest temperatures were 6 °F (3 °C) above typical standards in previous Decembers.[47] December 2023 has also been unusually warm and dry, in line with the country as a whole.
Climate data for Bozeman, Montana (Montana State University), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1892–present
As of thecensus of 2020,[51] there were 53,293 people and 22,041 households in the city. The population density of the city was 2,587.2 inhabitants per square mile (998.9/km2), a substantial increase since the 2010 census.
The racial makeup of the city was 88.6% White, 4.8% Hispanic or Latino, 2.4% Asian, 1.1% American Indian, and 0.6% African American. 5.6% of residents identified two or more races.
Of the 22,041 households in the city, each household has on average 2.24 people.
13.2% of Bozeman's population is under 18 years of age, and 10.7% of the population is over 65 years of age. 97.8% of the city's population, at or over the age of 25, has graduated high school or higher, and 64.2% of the population have attained at least a bachelor's degree. The gender makeup of the city is 53% male and 47% female.
The median income household income of the city was $74,113. The median per-capita income was $45,037. 14.7% of the population fell below the poverty line.
As of thecensus of 2010,[52] there were 37,280 people, 15,775 households, and 6,900 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,949.8 inhabitants per square mile (752.8/km2). There were 17,464 housing units at an average density of 913.4 per square mile (352.7/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 93.6%White, 0.5%African American, 1.1%Native American, 1.9%Asian, 0.1%Pacific Islander, 0.7% fromother races, and 2.1% from two or more races.Hispanic orLatino of any race were 2.9% of the population.
There were 15,775 households, of which 21.3% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 33.1% were married couples living together, 7.0% had a female householder with no husband present, 3.6% had a male householder with no wife present, and 56.3% were non-families. 33.5% of all households were made up of individuals, and 7.6% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.17 and the average family size was 2.80.
The median age in the city was 27.2 years. 15.7% of residents were under the age of 18; 28.2% were between the ages of 18 and 24; 31.4% were from 25 to 44; 16.7% were from 45 to 64; and 8.1% were 65 years of age or older. The gender makeup of the city was 52.6% male and 47.4% female.
As of thecensus of 2000, there were 27,509 people, 10,877 households, and 5,014 families residing in the city. The population density was 2,183.8 inhabitants per square mile (843.2/km2). There were 11,577 housing units at an average density of 919.0 per square mile (354.8/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 94.73% White, 0.33% African American, 1.24% Native American, 1.62% Asian, 0.07% Pacific Islander, 0.54% from other races, and 1.47% from two or more races. Hispanic or Latino of any race were 1.59% of the population.
There were 10,877 households, out of which 22.3% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 36.0% were married couples living together, 7.3% had a female householder with no husband present, and 53.9% were non-families. 30.4% of all households were made up of individuals, and 6.7% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.26 and the average family size was 2.85.
In the city, the population was spread out, with 16.0% under the age of 18, 33.0% from 18 to 24, 28.6% from 25 to 44, 14.4% from 45 to 64, and 8.0% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 25 years. For every 100 females, there were 111.2 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 112.6 males.
The median income for a household in the city was $32,156, and the median income for a family was $41,723. Males had a median income of $28,794 versus $20,743 for females. The per capita income for the city was $16,104. About 9.2% of families and 20.2% of the population were below the poverty line, including 14.8% of those under age 18 and 4.4% of those age 65 or over.
Bozeman's top employers include Bozeman Health, Montana State University, Simms Fishing Products and Mystery Ranch[53] as well as at least two dozen high-tech companies engaged in research or production of lasers and other optical equipment,[54] over a dozen bio-tech companies, and several large software companies.[55] Nationally known companies based in Bozeman include ILX Lightwave (an MKS/Newport company), Quantel USA,RightNow Technologies,Snowflake Inc., Schedulicity, Workiva, onX[56] andSimms Fishing Products. Notable non-profit organizations based in Bozeman include theGreater Yellowstone Coalition,Human Resource Development Council (HRDC) andEagle Mount.
Bridger Bowl Ski Area is located on the northeast face of theBridger Mountains, utilizing state and federal land.[65] Bridger Bowl was Bozeman's first ski area and opened to the public in 1955.[66]
Big Sky Ski Resort is reached via the Gallatin Canyon and is 40 miles (64 km) south of Bozeman. The resort has grown considerably since 1973 into a residential community and major winter tourist destination, described as one of the best in the nation.[67]
Bozeman became an incorporated Montana city in April 1883 and adopted acity council form of government.[68] Currently, the City of Bozeman uses acity commission/city manager form of government which the citizens adopted on January 1, 1922[69] with an elected Municipal Judge. The City Commission is chaired by an elected Mayor. These three entities form the legislative, executive and judicial branches of government.[70]
Bozeman Public Schools has two components: Bozeman Elementary School District and Bozeman High School District.[71]Belgrade Public Schools has two components: Belgrade Elementary School District and Belgrade High School District.[72] Almost all of Bozeman is in Bozeman Elementary School District and Bozeman High School District. A small piece extends into Belgrade Elementary School District and Belgrade High School District.[73]
The Bozeman Public School District operates twohigh schools – Bozeman High School andGallatin High School; two middle schools – Chief Joseph Middle School andSacajawea Middle School; and eight elementary schools – Emily Dickinson Elementary School, Hawthorne Elementary School, Hyalite Elementary School, Irving Elementary School, Longfellow Elementary School, Meadowlark Elementary School, Morning Star Elementary School, and Whittier Elementary School.[74]
The district also operates the Bridger Alternative Program as a branch campus of Bozeman High School to serve "at-risk" secondary students.[75]
The former Emerson Elementary School is now a cultural community center. Willson School, originally a high school, then a middle school, then the base for an alternative high school, is still owned by the school district and houses a number of school district offices.
Bozeman is home toMontana State University, the state's largest university and the flagship campus of the Montana State University System. MSU set a new fall enrollment record in the fall of 2018, at a total of 16,902 students on campus.
The Gallatin Big Sky Transportation District has operated the Skyline bus service, a zero-fare public bus system with six routes, since 2006.[83][84][85]
The Bozeman Fire Department is a full-time career fire department. There are currently 47 uniformed firefighters at three stations, four engines (one reserve), a ladder truck, a Battalion Chief's truck, two brush trucks, a HazMat unit, and two Medic Units. The Bozeman Fire Department responded to approximately 5,000 emergency calls in 2020.[87]
The following individuals are either notable current or former residents of Bozeman(R), were born or raised in Bozeman in their early years(B), or otherwise have a significant connection to the history of the Bozeman area(C).
Steven Rinella, American outdoorsman, conservationist, writer, and television personality
Albert, Alfred and Chris Schlechten multi-generation family of photographers noted for portraiture and images of Yellowstone National Park and the Gallatin Valley.[92]R,R,B
James Willard Schultz, author andGlacier National Park explorer, lived in Bozeman 1928–1929 with partner Jessica McDonald, professor at Montana State;R[93] Schultz's papers are archived at Montana State Burlingame Special Collections Library.[94]
^Freeman, Cortlandt L. (1988).The Growing Up Years The First 100 Years of Bozeman as an Incorporated City from 1883 to 1983. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society. pp. 62–65.
^Kennedy, Michael S. (1964). "Tall in the Saddle-First Trail Drive to Montana Territory".Cowboys and Cattlemen-A Roundup from Montana The Magazine of Western History. New York: Hastings House Publishing. pp. 103–111.
^Wellman, Paul I. (1939). "IX-Men Who Didn't Care".The Trampling Herd. Philadelphia, PA: J. B. Lippincott & Co. pp. 94–106.
^Smith, Phyllis (1996).Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. A History. Helena, MT: Falcon Press Publishers. pp. 102–103.ISBN1-56044-540-8.
^Siebel, Dennis (1996).Fort Ellis, Montana Territory (1867–1886) – The Fort That Guarded Bozeman. Bozeman, Montana: Gallatin County Historical Association. p. 44.
^Putnam, James Bruce (1988).The Evolution of a Frontier Town: Bozeman, Montana and Its Search For Economic Stability 1864–1887. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society. p. 28.
^abFreeman, Cortlandt L. (1988).The Growing Up Years The First 100 Years of Bozeman as an Incorporated City from 1883 to 1983. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society. p. 67.
^Smith, Phyllis (1996).Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. A History. Helena, MT: Falcon Press Publishers. p. 129.ISBN1-56044-540-8.
^Mulvaney, Tom (2009).Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. Chicago, IL: Arcadia Publishing. p. 70.ISBN978-0-7385-7084-6.
^Freeman, Cortlandt L. (1988).The Growing Up Years The First 100 Years of Bozeman as an Incorporated City from 1883 to 1983. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society. pp. 68–69.
^Freeman, Cortlandt L. (1988).The Growing Up Years The First 100 Years of Bozeman as an Incorporated City from 1883 to 1983. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society. p. 77.
^Hanna, Warren L. (1986)."Life with Apaki".The Life and Times of James Willard Schultz (Apikuni). Norman, Oklahoma: University of Oklahoma Press. pp. 233–248.ISBN0-8061-1985-3.
^ab"Native Stars: The Spears Brothers – Rising Stars Call Bozeman Home" The Montana Pioneer,"Native Stars - the Spears Brothers". Archived fromthe original on April 28, 2014. RetrievedNovember 3, 2014. February 2014.
Burlingame, Merrill G. (1976).Gallatin County Heritage-A Report of Progress 1805–1976. Gallatin County Bicentennial Committee.
Putnam, James Bruce (1988).The Evolution of a Frontier Town: Bozeman, Montana and Its Search For Economic Stability 1864–1887. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society.
Freeman, Cortlandt L. (1988).The Growing Up Years The First 100 Years of Bozeman as an Incorporated City from 1883 to 1983. Bozeman, MT: Montana Centennial Commission Gallatin County Historical Society.
Bates, Grace (1994).Gallatin County-Places and Things Present and Past. Gallatin County Historical Society.ISBN0-930401-78-6.
Smith, Phyllis (1996).Bozeman Names Have A History. Bozeman, MT: Gallatin County Historical Society.
Smith, Phyllis (1996).Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. A History. Helena, MT: Falcon Press Publishers.ISBN1-56044-540-8.
Smith, Phyllis (1997).Sweet Pea Days: A History. Bozeman, MT: Gallatin County Historical Society.
Jenks, Jim (2007).A Guide to Historic Bozeman. Helena, MT: Montana Historical Society Press.ISBN978-0-9721522-3-5.
Malloy, Denise Glaser (2008).Images of America-Bozeman. Chicago, IL: Arcadia Publishing.ISBN978-0-7385-4844-9.
Mulvaney, Tom (2009).Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. Chicago, IL: Arcadia Publishing.ISBN978-0-7385-7084-6.
