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Black Rock Desert

Coordinates:40°52′59″N119°03′50″W / 40.88306°N 119.06389°W /40.88306; -119.06389
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Northwest Nevada dry lake

For the protected areas named for this desert, seeBlack Rock Desert Wilderness andBlack Rock Desert–High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area.Not to be confused with theBlack Rock Desert volcanic field in Utah.
Black Rock Desert
Length100 mi (160 km)
Area1,000 sq mi (2,600 km2)
Geography
CountryUnited States
StateNevada
County
Population centerGerlach, Nevada
Coordinates40°52′59″N119°03′50″W / 40.88306°N 119.06389°W /40.88306; -119.06389
RiverQuinn River
Location
Map
Interactive map of Black Rock Desert

TheBlack Rock Desert is a semi-arid region (in theGreat Basin shrub steppeecoregion) of lava beds andplaya, oralkali flats, situated in theBlack Rock Desert–High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area, a silt playa 100 miles (160 km) north ofReno, Nevada, that encompasses more than 300,000 acres (120,000 ha) of land and contains more than 120 miles (200 km) of historic trails. It is in the northernNevada section of theGreat Basin with a lakebed that is a dry remnant ofPleistoceneLake Lahontan.

The Great Basin, named for the geography in which water is unable to flow out and remains in the basin, is a rugged land serrated by hundreds of mountain ranges, dried by wind and sun, with spectacular skies and scenic landscapes.[1] The average annual precipitation (in the years 1971–2000) atGerlach (in the extreme south-west of the desert) is 7.90 inches (200 mm).[2]

The region is notable for itspaleogeologic features, as an area of 19th-centuryEmigrant Trails toCalifornia, as a venue forrocketry, and as an alternative to theBonneville Salt Flats in northwesternUtah for settingland speed records (Mach 1.02 in 1997). It is also the location for the annualBurning Man event.

The Black Rock Desert is part of theNational Conservation Area (NCA), a unit of theBureau of Land Management (BLM)National Landscape Conservation System (NLCS). The NCA is located in northwest Nevada and was established by legislation in 2000. It is a unique combination of the desert playa, narrow canyons, and mountainous areas.

Humans have been in Black Rock Desert since approximately 10,000 B.P.[3] Around 1300 CE, the area was settled by thePaiute people.[4][5] The Desert's namesake large, black rock formation was used as a landmark by the Paiute and later emigrants crossing the area. The landmark is a conical outcrop composed of interbeddedPermian marinelimestone and volcanic rocks.[6] At its base is a large hot spring and grassy meadow, which was an important place for those crossing the desert headed forCalifornia andOregon. In 1843,John Frémont and his party were the first white men to cross the desert, and his trail was used by over half of the 22,000 gold seekers headed to California after 1849. In 1867,Hardin City, a short-lived silver mill town, was established (now aghost town).

Geography

[edit]
Black Rock Point[7] withmirage
Black Rock Desert, Nevada, July 16, 2017,Sentinel-2 true-colorsatellite image, scale 1:190,000.

The Black Rock Desert region is in northwesternNevada and the northwesternGreat Basin. Theplaya extends for approximately 100 mi (160 km) northeast from the towns ofGerlach andEmpire, between theJackson Mountains to the east and theCalico Hills to the west.

The Black Rock Desert is separated into two arms by theBlack Rock Range. It lies at an elevation of 3,907 ft (1,191 m)[8] and has an area of about 1,000 sq mi (2,600 km2).[9]There are several possible definitions of the extent of the Black Rock Desert. Often, people refer only to the playa surface. Sometimes, terrain which can be seen from the playa is included. The widest definition of the Black Rock Desert region is the watershed of the basin that drains into the playa.

Santa Rosa Range view
The southern section of the Santa Rosa Range

The intermittentQuinn River is the largest river in the region, starting in theSanta Rosa Range and ending in the Quinn River Sink on the playa south of the Black Rock Range. The desert's watershed covers 11,600 sq mi (30,000 km2),[10][11] including the Upper and LowerQuinn River,Smoke Creek Desert, Massacre Lake, and Thousand Creek[12]/Virgin Valley[13] watersheds of northwestern Nevada as well as small parts across the borders of California and Oregon.

If the playa is wet for a month or so, then the shallow waters teem with fairy shrimp, oranostraca born of eggs that lie dormant in the silt crust for long periods of time—sometimes for many years. The edges of the playa and the Quinn River Sink stay wet longer than the rest of the playa, which concentrates the fairy shrimp and migratory birds in those areas.

More than 250 species of neo-tropical migrant birds and many other water birds stop in Black Rock–High Rock Country for varying lengths of time. When wet, especially in spring, the playa is a favorite place for these winged visitors to rest and feed.[1]

When it rains, the playa can become extremely sticky, bogging down four-wheel-drive vehicles. Some areas of the Black Rock are environmentally sensitive and closed to all vehicles.

Nevada'sHumboldt,Pershing, andWashoe Counties intersect in the Black Rock Desert.

Mountain ranges

[edit]

The following mountain ranges are within or border the Black Rock Desert region.

Calico Hills, Humboldt County, Nevada

Geologic features

[edit]

The desert has numerous volcanic and geothermal features ofthe northwest Nevada volcanic region, including two Black Rock Points (west and east) at the southern end of theBlack Rock Range and which have darkPermianvolcanic rocks similar to another Permian blackdiabasedike formation in Nevada.[37]

The portion of theLake Lahontan lakebed in the Black Rock Desert is generally flat with Lahontan salt shrub vegetation, widely scatteredhot springs, and a playa. In areas of the lakebed along mountains,rain shadow results in desert precipitation levels.

The continuousFly Geyser of Fly Ranch is on private land and began in 1916,[38] when water well drilling accidentally penetrated a geothermal source.[39]

Theplaya of the Black Rock Desert lakebed is ~200 sq mi (520 km2) within an area bounded by theCalico Mountains Wilderness (north),Gerlach (west), theApplegate National Historic Trail (northeast), and theUnion Pacific Railroad (south).[40] The "South Playa" (~30 sq mi, with ~13 sq mi (34 km2) in Washoe County) is between Gerlach and the southwest boundary of theNational Conservation Area (NCA),[40] while the northeast NCA portion of the playa (including ~25 sq mi (65 km2) in Humboldt County) is between the NCA boundary and theApplegate National Historic Trail.[40] ANobles route between Gerlach andBlack Rock Hot Springs extends through the length of the playa.[40] The playa's Quinn River Sink of ~3 sq mi (7.8 km2) is where theQuinn River discharges/evaporates ~2.75 mi (4.43 km) south-southwest of Black Rock Hot Springs.[41]

Mining

[edit]

Prospecting and mining have occurred in the Black Rock region since the mid-19th century.US Gypsum Corporation operated agypsum mine anddrywall manufacturing plant in Empire, which employed 107 people and produced 266,300 tons of gypsum in 2008.[42][43]

Allied Nevada Gold Corporation re-opened the Hycroft Gold Mine in 2008 after acquiring it from Vista Gold Corp. Hycroft is anopen-pit mining operation in theKamma Mountains nearSulphur on the east side of the Black Rock Desert.[42][44][45] Anopal mine is at the base of the Calico Hills on the west side of the desert.[46]

Paleontology

[edit]

Bones of themammoths that roamed the area around 20,000 BCE have been recovered.[47] In 1979, a fossilizedColumbian mammoth was found.[48][49] Copies of the bones are now exhibited at theNevada State Museum, Carson City.

Land speed records

[edit]

The flatness of the Black Rock Desert's lakebed surface has led to the area's use as a proving ground for experimental land vehicles. It was the site of two successful attempts on the worldland speed record:

  • In 1983,Richard Noble drove the jet-poweredThrust2 car to a new record of 634.015 mph (1,020.348 km/h). Noble also headed up the team that beat the Thrust 2 record.[50]
  • In 1997,ThrustSSC, driven byAndy Green, became the world's first, and so far[as of?] only, supersonic car, reaching 763.035 mph (1,227.986 km/h).[51][52]
CSXT Space Shot, May 17, 2004

Rocketry records and attempts

[edit]

In addition to the flat surface, distance from populated areas and uncontrolled airspace over the area also attract experimentation with rockets. The following are highlights of amateur rocketry records[53] set at Black Rock:

Other rocket launches attempting various altitude records or space flights have occurred at Black Rock. In May 1999,JP Aerospace used arockoon (balloon-launched rocket) in an unsuccessfulsuborbital space flight attempt covered byCNN. The rocket reached 75,000 feet (23,000 m), far less than the intended Kármán Line to reach space.[58] CSXT made unsuccessful space launch attempts in 2000 and 2002 before the successful 2004 space flight.[59][60] JP Aerospace returned to the desert in 2009, launching an armchair to the edge of space forSpace Chair, an advertisement forToshiba electronic products.[61] On September 21, 2013, USCRPL launched its first space shot attempt, Traveler, intended to achieve a max altitude of 75 miles (121 km). The rocket experienced a catastrophic failure 3.5 seconds into the flight at an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet (3,000 m). If successful, Traveler would have been the first university/student-designed and built rocket to exceed the 62.14-mile (100.00 km)Kármán line required to claim a space flight. RPL's second attempt, Traveler II, flew in May 2014. It also failed catastrophically, approximately one second into the flight.[62][63][64][65]

History

[edit]
1914WPRR map with Gerlach, Ascalon,Trego, Cholona, Ronda, andSulphur, Nevada

More than ~15,000 years ago (15 tya), theHumboldt River flowed to the Smoke Creek–Black Rock Desert sub-basin, and during the recession ofLake Lahontan, the river diverted to theCarson Desert sub-basin.[66] During the highest Lahontan water level (~12.7 kya), the lakebed was under about 500 ft (150 m) of water,[67][68] under which sediment accumulated to form a flat lakebed.

Great Basin tribes inhabited the area approximately 10,000 B.P.,[3] and aFrémont Expedition encountered the site in 1843, but theFortieth Parallel Survey (1867) conducted the first official exploration.[69] In the late 1840s,Peter Lassen ledCalifornia Trail emigrants through the desert'sApplegate-Lassen Cutoff, an arduous route that took them hundreds of miles away from the gold lands of California. By 1910,Western Pacific'sFeather River Route (Oakland toSalt Lake City) had been completed across the east side of the lakebed on the "general route first explored by Lieutenant E.G. Beckwith in 1854".[70] By 1927, the desert had been used for filmingThe Winning of Barbara Worth (the 2003Mythbusters pilot episode was also filmed in the area).

InWorld War II, 973 sq mi (2,520 km2) of the Black Rock Desert was used for aUSAAFaerial gunnery training range, and post-war, the north region of theUnited States Navy'sLovelock Aerial Gunnery Range was in the Black Rock Desert area[71] (theBlack Rock Desert Gunnery Range had closed by 1964).[72] In 1979, a fossilizedColumbian Mammoth was found along the side of the lakebed.[73]

TheDooby Lane art installation was created by DeWayne "Doobie" Williams between 1978 and 1992. Guru Road, located about 2 miles north of Gerlach on Highway 34, consists of a series of art installations that include aphorisms and the names of local residents carved in to rocks. Larger installations such as "Ground Zero", Elvis, Imagination Station – Desert Broadcasting System (where the windows are TV frames with different panoramas) are also present.[74][75]

The first "Balls" rocket event was held at the desert in 1993,[76] and in 1998, the first annual Gerlach Dashglider race fromReno to the desert was held.[77] For its 30th anniversary in 1994, the Black Rock Press (University of Nevada, Reno) published a book of desert photographs.[78] The Friends of the Black Rock/High Rock organized in 1999,[79] and aNational Conservation Area Act the next year created several protected areas of the desert.[41]: a  Also in 2000, Lisa O'Shea died seven days after being scalded in Double Hot Springs when she attempted to rescue two dogs,[80] and theBureau of Land Management subsequently fenced "Double Hot".[41]

21st century

[edit]

Jack Lee Harelson was fined $2.5 million in 2002 forarchaeological looting of Elephant Mountain Cave. In 2010, theBureau of Land Management Winnemucca District Office completed aroundup of 1,922wild horses in the Calico Mountains Complex, of which 39 died of malnutrition due toovergrazing.[41]: d [41]: h 

From 1990 to 2019, and starting again in 2022, the Black Rock Desert playa has been the location for theBurning Man festival.

Transportation

[edit]
Lakebed during 2006 rocket launch

Nevada State Route 447 is the area's main highway and connects Gerlach to SR 427 atWadsworth, Nevada, nearInterstate 80.[81] The desert's dirt roads are generally not usable in wet or snowy conditions.Old Highway 34 provides access to the playa on the west side and to theHualapai Flat.Old Highway 48 (dirt) connects the playa toLovelock, andOld Highway 49 (Jungo Road, dirt) provides access to the lakebed from the Sulphur andJungo ghost towns.[82]

TheUnion Pacific RailroadElko Subdivision runs along the lakebed's east side between Sulphur and Gerlach. The railroad was constructed in the early 1900s as theWestern Pacific RailroadFeather River Route.

Light aircraft have landed on the lakebed for events (thenearby Empire andReno-Tahoe International Airports provide commercial service forthe area).

References

[edit]
  1. ^ab"General Information". Friends of Black Rock High Rock. Archived fromthe original on September 2, 2012. RetrievedSeptember 1, 2012.
  2. ^"Climate Normals".Ggweather.com. RetrievedAugust 27, 2014.
  3. ^abConnolly, Thomas J.; Barker, Pat; Fowler, Catherine S.; Hattori, Eugene M. (July 2016)."Getting beyond the Point: Textiles of the Terminal Pleistocene/Early Holocene in the Northwestern Great Basin".American Antiquity.81 (3):490–514.doi:10.1017/S0002731600003966.S2CID 220444994. RetrievedJune 3, 2019.Elephant Mountain Cave (26HU-3557-sd2), ca. 9700 cal B.P.
  4. ^Naval Air Station Fallon Geothermal Energy Development for Generation of Electrical Power, Churchill County: Environmental Impact Statement, Part 2 (Report). United States Navy. p. 114. RetrievedSeptember 3, 2019.Layton suggests little use of the High Rock Country from ca. AD 200–1300, with the population possibly emigrating to Surprise Valley.
  5. ^Wheeler, Sessions S. (1978).The Black Rock Desert. Caxton Press. p. 32.ISBN 978-0-87004-258-4.When the first white man arrived, the region known as northwestern Nevada was occupied by the Northern Paiute people. Cave excavations have provided evidence that these Indians did not come to this section of the Great Basin until approximately 1,400 A.D. and that at least three other separate cultures of people preceded them.
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    a,b."Black Rock Desert (863276)".Geographic Names Information System.United States Geological Survey,United States Department of the Interior. RetrievedJanuary 18, 2010.,Black Rock Point (838881),Big Mountain (Pahute Peak, 838751)
    c. Wilderness areas:Black Rock Desert (2035060),Calico Mountains (2035079),East Fork High Rock Canyon (2035112),High Rock Canyon (2035154),High Rock Lake (2035155),Little High Rock Canyon (2035182),North Black Rock Range (2035228),North Jackson Mountains (2035230),Pahute Peak (2035240),South Jackson Mountains (2035306)
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    h"Questions and Answers (Q and As): Proposed Calico Mountains Complex Gather"(PDF). RetrievedSeptember 4, 2019.The Complex is located northeast of Gerlach, Nevada (in portions of Washoe and Humboldt Counties) and includes 5 Herd Management Areas (HMAs): Black Rock Range East, Black Rock Range West, Calico Mountains, Granite Range, and Warm Springs Canyon.
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