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Belgrade

Coordinates:44°49′04″N20°27′25″E / 44.81778°N 20.45694°E /44.81778; 20.45694
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Capital and largest city of Serbia
For other uses, seeBelgrade (disambiguation).

Capital city in Serbia
Belgrade
Београд
Beograd
City of Belgrade
Град Београд
Grad Beograd
Anthem:Химна Београду
Himna Beogradu
"Anthem to Belgrade"
Map
Interactive map outlining Belgrade
Belgrade is located in Serbia
Belgrade
Belgrade
Location within Serbia
Show map of Serbia
Belgrade is located in Europe
Belgrade
Belgrade
Location within Europe
Show map of Europe
Coordinates:44°49′04″N20°27′25″E / 44.81778°N 20.45694°E /44.81778; 20.45694
CountrySerbia
CityBelgrade
Municipalities17
EstablishmentPrior to 279 B.C. (Singidunum)[1]
Government
 • BodyCity Assembly of Belgrade
 • MayorAleksandar Šapić
 • Ruling partiesSNSSPS
Area
389.12 km2 (150.24 sq mi)
 • Urban
506.14 km2 (195.42 sq mi)
 • Metro
3,234.96 km2 (1,249.03 sq mi)
Elevation117 m (384 ft)
Population
 (2022)
1,197,714[3]: 38 
 • Density3,078/km2 (7,970/sq mi)
 • Urban
1,298,661[4]
 • Urban density2,565/km2 (6,640/sq mi)
 • Metro
1,681,405[3]: 26 
 • Metro density520/km2 (1,300/sq mi)
Demonym(s)Belgradian (en)
Beograđanin (Београђанин) (m.)
Beograđanka (Београђанка) (f.) (sr)
GDP(Nominal, 2025)
 • MetroUS$41.821 billion
 • Per capitaUS$24,853
Time zoneUTC+01:00 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+02:00 (CEST)
Postal code
11000
Area code+381(0)11
ISO 3166 codeRS-00
Vehicle registrationBG
International AirportBelgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG)
HDI (2022)0.877[6]
very high ·1st of 25
Websitebeograd.rs

Belgrade[b] is thecapital andlargest city ofSerbia. It is located at theconfluence of theSava andDanube rivers and at the crossroads of thePannonian Plain and theBalkan Peninsula.[9] According to the 2022 census[update], the population of Belgrade city proper stands at 1,197,114, its contiguous urban area has 1,298,661 inhabitants, while population of city's administrative area (which roughly corresponds to its metro area) totals 1,681,405 people.[10] It is one of themajor cities of Southeast Europe and thethird-most populous city on the river Danube.

Belgrade is one of theoldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe and the world. One of the most important prehistoric cultures ofEurope, theVinča culture, evolved within the Belgrade area in the 6th millennium BC. In antiquity,Thraco-Dacians inhabited the region and, after 279 BC,Celts settled the city, naming itSingidūn.[11] It wasconquered by the Romans under the reign ofAugustus and awarded Romancity rights in the mid-2nd century.[12] It was settled by theSlavs in the 520s, and changed hands several times between theByzantine Empire, theFrankish Empire, theBulgarian Empire, and theKingdom of Hungary before it became the seat of theSerbian kingStefan Dragutin in 1284. Belgrade served as capital of theSerbian Despotate during the reign ofStefan Lazarević, and then his successorĐurađ Branković returned it to the Hungarian king in 1427. Noon bells in support of the Hungarian army against theOttoman Empire during thesiege in 1456 have remained a widespread church tradition to this day. In 1521, Belgrade was conquered by the Ottomans and became the seat of theSanjak of Smederevo.[13] It frequently passed from Ottoman toHabsburg rule, which saw the destruction of most of the city during theOttoman–Habsburg wars.

Following theSerbian Revolution, Belgrade was once again named the capital of Serbia in 1841.Northern Belgrade remained the southernmostHabsburg post until 1918, when it was attached to the city, due to former Austro-Hungarian territories becoming part of the newKingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes afterWorld War I. Belgrade was the capital ofYugoslavia from itscreation to its dissolution.[note 1] In a fatally strategic position, the city has been battled over in 115 wars and razed 44 times, being bombed five times and besieged many times.[14]

Being Serbia'sprimate city, Belgrade has specialadministrative status within Serbia.[15] It is the seat of the central government, administrative bodies, and government ministries, as well as home to almost all of the largest Serbian companies, media, and scientific institutions. Belgrade is classified as a Beta-Global City.[16] The city is home to theUniversity Clinical Centre of Serbia, a hospital complex with one of thelargest capacities in the world; theChurch of Saint Sava, one of thelargest Orthodox church buildings; and theBelgrade Arena, one of thelargest capacity indoor arenas in Europe.

Belgrade hosted major international events such as theDanube River Conference of 1948, the firstNon-Aligned Movement Summit (1961), the first major gathering of theOSCE (1977–1978), theEurovision Song Contest (2008), as well as sports events such as the firstFINA World Aquatics Championships (1973),UEFA Euro (1976),Summer Universiade (2009) andEuroBasket three times (1961,1975,2005). On 21 June 2023, Belgrade was confirmed host of the BIE- Specialized ExhibitionExpo 2027.[17]

History

[edit]
Main article:History of Belgrade
For a chronological guide, seeTimeline of Belgrade.

Prehistory

[edit]
See also:Prehistoric sites in Serbia andPrehistory of Southeastern Europe
Vinča culture figurine, 4000–4500 BC.

Chipped stone tools found inZemun show that the area around Belgrade was inhabited bynomadic foragers in thePalaeolithic andMesolithic eras. Some of these tools are ofMousterian industry—belonging toNeanderthals rather than modern humans.Aurignacian andGravettian tools have also been discovered near the area, indicating some settlement between 50,000 and 20,000 years ago.[18] The first farming people to settle in the region are associated with theNeolithicStarčevo culture, which flourished between 6200 and 5200 BC.[19] There are several Starčevo sites in and around Belgrade, including the eponymous site ofStarčevo. The Starčevo culture was succeeded by theVinča culture (5500–4500 BC), a more sophisticated farming culture that grew out of the earlier Starčevo settlements and also named for a site in the Belgrade region (Vinča-Belo Brdo). The Vinča culture is known for its very large settlements, one of the earliestsettlements by continuous habitation and some of the largest in prehistoric Europe.[20] Also associated with the Vinča culture are anthropomorphic figurines such as theLady of Vinča, the earliest knowncopper metallurgy in Europe,[21] and aproto-writing form developed prior to theSumerians andMinoans known as theOld European script, which dates back to around 5300 BC.[22] Within the city proper, on Cetinjska Street, a skull of a Paleolithic human dated to before 5000 BC was discovered in 1890.[23]

Antiquity

[edit]
See also:Serbia in the Roman era
Belgrade Fortress, built during a long period of time from the 2nd to the 18th century, located on the confluence of the two rivers Sava andDanube

Evidence of early knowledge about Belgrade's geographical location comes from a variety of ancient myths and legends. The ridge overlooking the confluence of theSava andDanube rivers, for example, has been identified as one of the places in the story ofJason and theArgonauts.[24][25] In the time of antiquity, too, the area was populated byPaleo-Balkan tribes, including theThracians and theDacians, who ruled much of Belgrade's surroundings.[26] Specifically, Belgrade was at one point inhabited by the Thraco-Dacian tribe Singi;[11] followingCeltic invasion in 279 BC, theScordisci wrested the city from their hands, naming itSingidūn (d|ūn, fortress).[11] In 34–33 BC, the Roman army reached Belgrade. It became theromanisedSingidunum in the 1st century AD and, by the mid-2nd century, the city was proclaimed amunicipium by the Roman authorities, evolving into a full-fledgedcolonia (the highest city class) by the end of the century.[12] While the first ChristianEmperor of RomeConstantine I, also known asConstantine the Great[27]—was born in the territory ofNaissus to the city's south, Roman Christianity's champion, Flavius Iovianus (Jovian/Jovan), was born in Singidunum.[28] Jovian reestablished Christianity as the official religion of theRoman Empire, ending the brief revival oftraditional Roman religions under his predecessorJulian the Apostate. In 395 AD, the site passed to the Eastern Roman orByzantine Empire.[29] Across the Sava from Singidunum was the Celtic city ofTaurunum (Zemun); the two were connected with a bridge throughout Roman and Byzantine times.[30]

Middle Ages

[edit]
See also:Serbia in the Middle Ages
Belgrade 1400, before Ottoman occupation.

In 442, the area was ravaged byAttila the Hun.[31] In 471, it was taken byTheodoric the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, who continued into Italy.[32] As theOstrogoths left, another Germanic tribe, theGepids, invaded the city. In 539, it was retaken by the Byzantines.[33] In 577, some 100,000 Slavs poured intoThrace andIllyricum, pillaging cities and more permanently settling the region.[34]

TheAvars, underBayan I, conquered the whole region and its new Slavic population by 582.[35] Following Byzantine reconquest, the Byzantine chronicleDe Administrando Imperio mentions theWhite Serbs, who had stopped in Belgrade on their way back home, asking thestrategos for lands; they received provinces in the west, towards the Adriatic, which they would rule as subjects toHeraclius (610–641).[36] In 829,Khan Omurtag was able to add Singidunum and its environs to the First Bulgarian Empire.[37][38] The first record of the nameBelograd appeared on April, 16th, 878, in a Papal missive[39] toBulgarian rulerBoris I. This name would appear in several variants:Alba Bulgarica in Latin,Griechisch Weissenburg in High German,Nándorfehérvár in Hungarian, andCastelbianco in Venetian, among other names, all variations of 'white fortress' or 'Bulgar white fortress'. For about four centuries, the city would become a battleground between theByzantine Empire, the medievalKingdom of Hungary, and theBulgarian Empire.[40]Basil II (976–1025) installed a garrison in Belgrade.[41] The city hosted the armies of theFirst and theSecond Crusade,[42] but, while passing through during theThird Crusade,Frederick Barbarossa and his 190,000crusaders saw Belgrade in ruins.[43]

Thethemata of the Byzantine Empire, at the death of Basil II in 1025. Belgrade was part of the theme of Bulgaria, after the conquest of Bulgaria in 1018.

KingStefan Dragutin (r. 1276–1282) received Belgrade from his father-in-law,Stephen V of Hungary, in 1284, and it served as the capital of theKingdom of Syrmia, a vassal state to the Kingdom of Hungary. Dragutin (Hungarian:Dragutin István) is regarded as the firstSerbian king to rule over Belgrade.[44]

Following the battles ofMaritsa (1371) andKosovo field (1389), Moravian Serbia, to Belgrade's south, began to fall to theOttoman Empire.[45][46]

The northern regions of what is now Serbia persisted as theSerbian Despotate, with Belgrade as its capital. The city flourished underStefan Lazarević, the son of Serbian princeLazar Hrebeljanović. Lazarević built a castle with a citadel and towers, of which only theDespot's tower and the west wall remain. He also refortified the city's ancient walls, allowing the Despotate to resist Ottoman conquest for almost 70 years. During this time, Belgrade was a haven for many Balkan peoples fleeing Ottoman rule, and is thought to have had a population ranging between 40,000 and 50,000 people.[44]

Conquest of Belgrade, 1521, SultanSuleiman the Magnificent laid siege to theBelgrade Fortress

In 1427, Stefan's successorĐurađ Branković, returning Belgrade to theHungarian king, madeSmederevo his new capital. Even though the Ottomans had captured most of theSerbian Despotate, Belgrade, known as Nándorfehérvár in Hungarian, wasunsuccessfully besieged in 1440[42] and 1456.[47] As the city presented an obstacle to the Ottoman advance into Hungary and further, over 100,000 Ottoman soldiers[48]besieged it in 1456, in which the Christian army led by the Hungarian GeneralJohn Hunyadi successfully defended it.[49] Thenoon bell ordered byPope Callixtus III commemorates the victory throughout the Christian world to this day, which is now a cultural symbol ofHungary.[42][50]

Ottoman rule and Austrian invasions

[edit]
See also:History of Ottoman Serbia andOttoman–Habsburg wars
Belgrade in 1684

Seven decades after the initial siege, on 28 August 1521, the fort was finally captured bySuleiman the Magnificent with 250,000 Turkish soldiers and over 100 ships. Subsequently, most of the city was razed to the ground and its entire Orthodox Christian population was deported toIstanbul[42][51] to an area that has since become known as theBelgrade forest.[52]

Belgrade was made the seat of thePashalik of Belgrade (also known as the Sanjak of Smederevo), and quickly became the second largest Ottoman town in Europe at over 100,000 people, surpassed only byConstantinople.[48] Ottoman rule introducedOttoman architecture, including numerous mosques, and the city was resurrected—now byOriental influences.[53]

Siege of Belgrade (1717).

In 1594, a majorSerb rebellion was crushed by the Ottomans. In retribution,Grand VizierSinan Pasha ordered therelics ofSaint Sava to be publicly torched on theVračar plateau; in the 20th century, thechurch of Saint Sava was built to commemorate this event.[54]

Occupied by theHabsburgs three times (1688–1690,1717–1739,1789–1791), headed by theHoly Roman PrincesMaximilian of Bavaria andEugene of Savoy,[55] andfield marshalBaron Ernst Gideon von Laudon, respectively, Belgrade was quickly recaptured by the Ottomans and substantially razed each time.[53] During this period, the city was affected by the twoGreat Serbian Migrations, in which hundreds of thousands of Serbs, led by twoSerbian Patriarchs, retreated together with the Austrian soldiers into the Habsburg Empire, settling in today'sVojvodina andSlavonia.[56]

Principality and Kingdom of Serbia

[edit]
See also:Principality of Serbia andKingdom of Serbia
View of Belgrade in 1890

At the beginning of the 19th century, Belgrade was predominantly inhabited by a Muslim population. Traces of Ottoman rule and architecture—such as mosques andbazaars, were to remain a prominent part of Belgrade's townscape into the 19th century; several decades, even, after Serbia was granted autonomy from the Ottoman Empire.[57]

During theFirst Serbian Uprising, Serbian revolutionaries held the city from 8 January 1807 until 1813, when it was retaken by the Ottomans.[58] In 1807, Turks in Belgrade were massacred and forcefully converted to Christianity. The massacre was encouraged by Russia in order to cement divisions between the Serb rebels and thePorte. Around 6,000 Muslims and Jews were forcibly converted to Christianity. Most mosques were converted into churches. Muslims, Jews, Aromanians and Greeks weresubjected to forced labour, and Muslim women were widely made available to young Serb men, and some were taken into slavery.Milenko Stojković bought many of them, and established his harem for which he gained fame. In this circumstances Belgrade demographically transformed from Ottoman to Serb.[59] After theSecond Serbian Uprising in 1815, Serbia achieved some sort of sovereignty, which was formally recognised by the Porte in 1830.[60]

The development of Belgrade architecture after 1815 can be divided into four periods. In the first phase, which lasted from 1815 to 1835, the dominant architectural style was still of a Balkan character, with substantial Ottoman influence. At the same time, an interest in joining the European mainstream allowed Central and Western European architecture to flourish. Between 1835 and 1850, the amount ofneoclassicist andbaroque buildings south of the Austrian border rose considerably, exemplified bySt Michael's Cathedral (Serbian:Saborna crkva), completed in 1840. Between 1850 and 1875, new architecture was characterised by a turn towards the newly popularRomanticism, along with older European architectural styles. Typical of Central European cities in the last quarter of the 19th century, the fourth phase was characterised by aneclecticist style based on the Renaissance and Baroque periods.[61]

In 1841, PrinceMihailo Obrenović moved the capital of thePrincipality of Serbia fromKragujevac to Belgrade.[62][63] During his first reign (1815–1839), Prince Miloš Obrenović pursued expansion of the city's population through the addition of new settlements, aiming and succeeding to make Belgrade the centre of the Principality's administrative, military and cultural institutions. His project of creating a new market space (the Abadžijska čaršija), however, was less successful; trade continued to be conducted in the centuries-old Donja čaršija and Gornja čaršija. Still, new construction projects were typical for the Christian quarters as the older Muslim quarters declined; from Serbia's autonomy until 1863, the number of Belgrade quarters even decreased, mainly as a consequence of the gradualdisappearance of the city's Muslim population. An Ottoman city map from 1863 counts only 9 Muslim quarters (mahalas). The names of only five such neighbourhoods are known today: Ali-pašina, Reis-efendijina, Jahja-pašina, Bajram-begova, and Laz Hadži-Mahmudova.[64] Following theČukur Fountain incident, Belgrade was bombed by the Ottomans.[65]

Old postcard from Belgrade.
Belgrade City Courts Complex andNational Assembly of theKingdom of Yugoslavia under construction, beforeWorld War II.

On 18 April 1867, the Ottoman government ordered the Ottoman garrison, which had been since 1826 the last representation of Ottoman suzerainty in Serbia, withdrawn fromKalemegdan. The forlorn Porte's only stipulation was that the Ottoman flag continue to fly over the fortress alongside the Serbian one. Serbia'sde facto independence dates from this event.[66] In the following years, urban plannerEmilijan Josimović had a significant influence on Belgrade. He conceptualised a regulation plan for the city in 1867, in which he proposed the replacement of the town's crooked streets with agrid plan. Of great importance also was the construction of independent Serbian political and cultural institutions, as well as the city's now-plentiful parks. Pointing to Josimović's work, Serbian scholars have noted an important break with Ottoman traditions. At the time of independence, Belgrade had a mainly Ottoman look, and Josimović stated he wanted to rebuild Belgrade so that "the capital does not retain the form that barbarism gave it".[67] Josimović designed Belgrade to resemble Vienna, right down to building grand boulevards inspired by theRingstrasse.[67] All that remains of Ottoman Belgrade today are two mosques, the citadel, and a fountain with Arabic inscriptions.[67] However, Istanbul—the capital city of the state to which Belgrade and Serbiade jure still belonged—underwent similar changes.[68]

In May 1868,knez Mihailo was assassinated with his cousinAnka Konstantinović while riding in a carriage in his country residence.[69]

With thePrincipality's full independence in 1878 and its transformation into theKingdom of Serbia in 1882, Belgrade once again became a key city in the Balkans, and developed rapidly.[58][70] Nevertheless, conditions in Serbia remained those of an overwhelmingly agrarian country, even with the opening of a railway toNiš, Serbia's second city. In 1900, the capital had only 70,000 inhabitants[71] (at the time Serbia numbered 2.5 million). Still, by 1905, the population had grown to more than 80,000 and, by the outbreak of World War I in 1914, it had surpassed the 100,000 citizens, disregardingZemun, which still belonged toAustria-Hungary.[72]

The first-ever projection of motion pictures in the Balkans and Central Europe was held in Belgrade in June 1896 by André Carr, a representative of theLumière brothers. He shot the first motion pictures of Belgrade in the next year; however, they have not been preserved.[73] The first permanent cinema was opened in 1909 in Belgrade.[74]

World War I: Austro–German invasion

[edit]
Belgrade seen fromTopčider hill in 1920.

The First World War began on 28 July 1914 when Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia. Most of the subsequent Balkan offensives occurred near Belgrade.Austro-Hungarianmonitors shelled Belgrade on 29 July 1914, and it was taken by theAustro-Hungarian Army under GeneralOskar Potiorek on 1 December.On 16 December, it was re-taken bySerbian troops under MarshalRadomir Putnik. After a prolonged battle which destroyed much of the city, starting on 6 October 1915, Belgrade fell toGerman and Austro-Hungarian troops commanded by Field MarshalAugust von Mackensen on 9 October of the same year.

Victorious Serbian troops marching through the city of Semlin today (Zemun) after liberating Belgrade and enteringAustria-Hungary in December1914.

The city was liberated by Serbian andFrench troops on 1 November 1918, under the command of MarshalLouis Franchet d'Espèrey of France andCrown Prince Alexander of Serbia. Belgrade, devastated as a front-line city, lost the title of largest city in theKingdom toSubotica for some time.[75]

Kingdom of Yugoslavia

[edit]

After the war, Belgrade became the capital of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, renamed theKingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. The Kingdom was split intobanovinas and Belgrade, together withZemun andPančevo, formed a separate administrative unit.[76]During this period, the city experienced fast growth and significant modernisation. Belgrade's population grew to 239,000 by 1931 (with the inclusion of Zemun), and to 320,000 by 1940. The population growth rate between 1921 and 1948 averaged 4.08% a year.[77]

In 1927, Belgrade's first airport opened, and in 1929, its first radio station began broadcasting. ThePančevo Bridge, which crosses the Danube, was opened in 1935,[78] whileKing Alexander Bridge over the Sava was opened in 1934. On 3 September 1939 the firstBelgrade Grand Prix, the lastGrand Prix motor racing race before the outbreak of World War II, was held around theBelgrade Fortress and was followed by 80,000 spectators.[79] The winner wasTazio Nuvolari.[80]

World War II

[edit]
People of Belgrade demonstrate their support for break-up with theTripartite Pact on 27 March 1941

On 25 March 1941, the government ofregentCrown Prince Paul signed theTripartite Pact, joining theAxis powers in an effort to stay out of the Second World War and keep Yugoslavia neutral during the conflict. This was immediately followed by mass protests in Belgrade and a militarycoup d'état led by Air Force commander GeneralDušan Simović, who proclaimedKing Peter II to be of age to rule the realm. As a result, the city washeavily bombed by theLuftwaffe on 6 April 1941, killing up to 2,274 people.[81][82][83] Yugoslavia was theninvaded byGerman,Italian,Hungarian, andBulgarian forces. Belgrade was captured by subterfuge, with six German soldiers led by their officerFritz Klingenberg feigning threatening size, forcing the city to capitulate.

Ruins in Belgrade after theGerman bombing of 1941

[84] Belgrade was more directly occupied by theGerman Army in the same month and became the seat of the puppetNedić regime, headed by its namesake general.[85] Some of today's parts of Belgrade were incorporated in theIndependent State of Croatia in occupied Yugoslavia, another puppet state, whereUstashe regime carried out theGenocide of Serbs.[86]

During the summer and autumn of 1941, in reprisal for guerrilla attacks, the Germans carried out several massacres of Belgrade citizens; in particular, members of theJewish community were subject to mass shootings at the order of GeneralFranz Böhme, the GermanMilitary Governor of Serbia. Böhme rigorously enforced the rule that for every German killed, 100 Serbs or Jews would be shot.[87] Belgrade became the first city in Europe to be declared by the Nazi occupation forces to bejudenfrei.[88] The resistance movement in Belgrade was led by MajorŽarko Todorović from 1941 until his arrest in 1943.[89]

Just likeRotterdam, which was devastated twice by both German and Allied bombing,Belgrade was bombed once more duringWorld War II, this time by theAllies on 16 April 1944, killing at least 1,100 people. This bombing fell on theOrthodox ChristianEaster.[90] Most of the city remained under German occupation until 20 October 1944, when it was liberated by theRed Army and the CommunistYugoslav Partisans.

On 29 November 1945, MarshalJosip Broz Tito proclaimed theFederal People's Republic of Yugoslavia in Belgrade (later renamed toSocialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia on 7 April 1963).[91]

Socialist Yugoslavia

[edit]

When the war ended, the city was left with 11,500 demolished housing units.[92] During the post-war period, Belgrade grew rapidly as the capital of therenewed Yugoslavia, developing as a major industrial centre.[70]

In 1948, construction ofNew Belgrade started. In the late 1940s and 1950s, the new regime made a point of rebuilding Belgrade in a modernistic style inspired by Le Corbusier to show that Yugoslavia was in the forefront of progress.[93] In 1958, Belgrade's first television station began broadcasting. In 1961, Belgrade hosted the first and founding conference of theNon-Aligned Movement under Tito's chairmanship.[94] In 1962,Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport was built. In the 1960s, a number of prestige buildings were put up such as the parliament building, theUšće Towers which served as the headquarters for the Central Committee of the League of Communists, and theHotel Jugoslavija.[93] An American journalist from theWashington Post newspaper wrote in 1967: "Belgrade is a lively, frivolous, noisy, jam-packed city compared with the one I remember from twenty years ago"..[93] In 1964, Tito embarked upon the policy of "market socialism" that allowed capitalism to co-exist with communism. As a result, Western visitors to Belgrade in the late 1960s were astonished to see that the main streets were dominated by gigantic and garish billboards promoting Western brands such as Coca-Cola, Volkswagen, Siemens and Pan Am, giving Belgrade a very Western feel.[93] Likewise, the Belgradians in the 1960s were described as dressed very much in fashionable Western styles with visitors noting that many women had an obsession with having their hair bleached blonde.[93] The German historian Marie-Jannine Calic wrote that in the 1960s Belgrade "a vibrant hustle and bustle prevailed in the streets, squares, and numerous cafes."[93] She also noted that the core of Belgrade had a very modern look, but that "along the mighty boulevards huddled pathetic little stores selling cloth, metal goods and dishware next to the dingy workshops of shoemakers, silversmiths and candle makers".[95] On the periphery of Belgrade, there was a semi-rural feel as chickens and cows wandered about the streets while the people lived in dire poverty, making their living as peddlers, wandering musicians, rag pickers, panhandlers, shoe shiners, scissor grinders, casual laborers and other marginal occupations.[95] In 1968,major student protests led to several street clashes between students and the police.[96]

The FirstNon-Aligned Movement Summit Conference took place in Belgrade,Yugoslavia in September 1961

By 1969, the population of Belgrade passed the one million mark for the first time.[97] The population increase was largely due to people moving from rural areas to Belgrade as it was estimated in 1969 that two of three Belgradians had been born in the countryside.[97] The population increase in the 1960s imposed serious social strains as more people were moving to Belgrade faster than the pace of housing construction, leading a housing crisis.[95] The 1961 Yugoslav census showed that an average of 2.5 people lived per one room in Belgrade compared to the average of 1.6 people per room in the rest of Yugoslavia.[95] In 1965, it was estimated that there was a shortage of 50, 000 housing units in Belgrade, which led to many people to make illegal makeshift homes in shops, basements, laundry rooms and even elevator shafts while on the periphery of Belgrade people built wooden huts and cottages.[95] The mayor of Belgrade,Branko Pešić, told a journalist in 1965: "In the last seven or eight years, 20,000 to 30,000 people have come to Belgrade each year. That equals an entire small town...And all of these people find shelter somewhere, hole up someplace. Some get an apartment, but that is the smallest percentage of them. A great number are forced...to house in basement, in unhygienic apartments and barracks. And whoever has not yet seen this should definitely see what this looks like...Something like this doesn't even exist in Africa".[95]

In 1972, Belgrade faced asmallpox outbreak, the last major outbreak ofsmallpox inEurope since World War II.[98] Between October 1977 and March 1978, the city hosted the first major gathering of theOrganization for Security and Co-operation in Europe with the aim of implementing theHelsinki Accords from, while in 1980 Belgrade hosted theUNESCO General Conference.[99] Josip Broz Tito died in May 1980 and hisfuneral in Belgrade was attended by high officials and state delegations from 128 of the 154members of the United Nations from all over the world, based on which it became one of thelargest funerals in history.[100]

Breakup of Yugoslavia

[edit]
General Staff Building damaged in the1999 NATO bombing. Belgrade is one of the most destroyed cities is accurate due to its strategic location, which has led to it being battled over in 115 wars and razed to the ground 44 times throughout its 7,000-year history. This cycle of destruction and rebuilding earned it the nickname the "White Fenix" and has significantly shaped its history and urban landscape.

On 9 March 1991,massive demonstrations led byVuk Drašković were held in the city againstSlobodan Milošević.[101] According to various media outlets, there were between 100,000 and 150,000 people on the streets.[102] Two people were killed, 203 were injured and 108 were arrested during the protests, and later that day tanks were deployed onto the streets to restore order.[103] Manyanti-war protests were held in Belgrade, with the largest protests being dedicated to solidarity with the victims from thebesieged Sarajevo.[104][105]Further anti-government protests were held in Belgrade from November 1996 to February 1997 against the same government after alleged electoral fraud in local elections.[106] These protests broughtZoran Đinđić to power, the firstmayor of Belgrade since World War II who did not belong to theLeague of Communists of Yugoslavia or its later offshoot, theSocialist Party of Serbia.[107]

In 1999, during theKosovo War, theNATO bombing campaign targeted a number a buildings in Belgrade. Among the sites bombed were some ministry buildings, theRTS building, hospitals,Hotel Jugoslavija, theCentral Committee building,Avala Tower, and theChinese embassy.[108] Between 500[109] and 2,000 civilians[110] were killed in Serbia and Montenegro as a result of the NATO bombings, of which 27 were killed in Belgrade.[111] After theYugoslav Wars, Serbia became home to the highest number ofrefugees andinternally displaced persons in Europe, with more than a third of these refugees having settled in Belgrade.[112][113][114][115]

After the2000 presidential elections, Belgrade was the site of major public protests, with over half a million people taking part. These demonstrations resulted in theousting of president Milošević as a part of theOtpor movement.[116][117]

Recent period

[edit]
Belgrade Waterfront

In 2014,Belgrade Waterfront, an urban renewal project, was initiated by theGovernment of Serbia and itsEmirati partner,Eagle Hills Properties. Around €3.5 billion was to be jointly invested by the Serbian government and their Emirati partners.[118][needs update] The project includes office and luxury apartment buildings, five-star hotels, a shopping mall and the envisioned 'Belgrade Tower'. The project is, however, quite controversial—there are a number of uncertainties regarding its funding, necessity, and its architecture's arguable lack of harmony with the rest of the city.[119]

In addition toBelgrade Waterfront, the city is under rapid development and reconstruction, especially in the area ofNovi Beograd, where (as of 2020) apartment and office buildings were under construction to support the burgeoningBelgrade IT sector, now one of Serbia's largest economic players. In September 2020, there were around 2000 active construction sites in Belgrade.[120] The city budget for 2023 stood at 205,5 billion dinars (1.750 billion Euros).[121] The budget for the city of Belgrade has been estimated to be more than 2 billion Euros for 2024.

Geography

[edit]

Topography

[edit]
The confluence of theSava (river on the right side) into theDanube at Belgrade with view onKalemegdan Fortress (up-right)

Belgrade lies 116.75 m (383.0 ft)above sea level and is located at theconfluence of theDanube andSava rivers.[14] The historical core of Belgrade,Kalemegdan, lies on the right banks of both rivers. Since the 19th century, the city has been expanding to the south and east; after World War II,New Belgrade was built on the left bank of the Sava river, connecting Belgrade withZemun. Smaller, chiefly residential communities across the Danube, likeKrnjača,Kotež andBorča, also merged with the city, whilePančevo, a heavily industrialised satellite city, remains separate. The city has an urban area of 360 km2 (140 sq mi), while together with its metropolitan area it covers 3,223 km2 (1,244 sq mi).[11]

On the right bank of the Sava, central Belgrade has a hilly terrain, while the highest point of Belgrade proper isTorlak hill at 303 m (994 ft). The mountains ofAvala (511 m (1,677 ft)) andKosmaj (628 m (2,060 ft)) lie south of the city. Across the Sava and Danube, the land is mostly flat, consisting ofalluvial plains andloessialplateaus.[122]

Monument to the Unknown Hero on the mountainAvala,Avala Tower and city of Belgrade in distance.

One of the characteristics of the city terrain ismass wasting. On the territory covered by the General Urban Plan there are 1,155 recorded mass wasting points, out of which 602 are active and 248 are labeled as 'high risk'. They cover almost 30% of the city territory and include several types of mass wasting.Downhill creeps are located on the slopes above the rivers, mostly on theclay orloam soils, inclined between 7 and 20%. The most critical ones are inKaraburma,Zvezdara,Višnjica,Vinča andRitopek, in the Danube valley, andUmka, and especially its neighbourhood of Duboko, in the Sava valley. They have moving and dormant phases, and some of them have been recorded for centuries. Less active downhill creep areas include the entireTerazije slope above the Sava (Kalemegdan,Savamala), which can be seen by the inclination of thePobednik monument and the tower of theCathedral Church, and the Voždovac section, betweenBanjica andAutokomanda.

Landslides encompass smaller areas, develop on the steep cliffs, sometimes being inclined up to 90%. They are mostly located in the artificialloess hills of Zemun:Gardoš,Ćukovac andKalvarija.

However, the majority of the land movement in Belgrade, some 90%, is triggered by the construction works and faulty water supply system (burst pipes, etc.). The neighbourhood ofMirijevo is considered to be the most successful project of fixing the problem. During the construction of the neighbourhood from the 1970s, the terrain was systematically improved and the movement of the land is today completely halted.[123][124]

Climate

[edit]

Under theKöppen climate classification, Belgrade has ahumid subtropical climate (Cfa) bordering on ahumid continental climate (Dfa) with four seasons and uniformly spread precipitation. Monthly averages range from 1.9 °C (35.4 °F) in January to 23.8 °C (74.8 °F) in July, with an annual mean of 13.2 °C (55.8 °F). There are, on average, 44.6 days a year when the maximum temperature is at or above 30 °C (86 °F),[125] and 95 days when the temperature is above 25 °C (77 °F), On the other hand, Belgrade experiences 52.1 days per year in which the minimum temperature falls below 0 °C (32 °F), with 13.8 days having a maximum temperature below freezing as well.[125] Belgrade receives about 698 mm (27 in) of precipitation a year, with late spring being wettest. The average annual number of sunny hours is 2,020.

Belgrade may experience thunderstorms at any time of the year, experiencing 31 days annually, but it's much more common in spring and summer months.Hail is rare and occurs exclusively in spring or summer.[125]

The highest officially recorded temperature in Belgrade was 43.6 °C (110.5 °F) on 24 July 2007,[126] while on the other end, the lowest temperature was −26.2 °C (−15 °F) on 10 January 1893.[127] The highest recorded value of daily precipitation was 109.8 millimetres (4.32 inches) on 15 May 2014.[125]

Climate data for Belgrade (1991–2020, extremes 1920–present)
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °C (°F)21.4
(70.5)
23.9
(75.0)
30.0
(86.0)
32.4
(90.3)
34.9
(94.8)
38.7
(101.7)
43.6
(110.5)
41.8
(107.2)
41.8
(107.2)
34.7
(94.5)
29.3
(84.7)
22.7
(72.9)
43.6
(110.5)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)5.2
(41.4)
7.8
(46.0)
13.1
(55.6)
18.9
(66.0)
23.6
(74.5)
27.1
(80.8)
29.3
(84.7)
29.7
(85.5)
24.3
(75.7)
18.7
(65.7)
12.2
(54.0)
6.1
(43.0)
18.0
(64.4)
Daily mean °C (°F)1.9
(35.4)
3.8
(38.8)
8.3
(46.9)
13.6
(56.5)
18.2
(64.8)
21.9
(71.4)
23.8
(74.8)
23.8
(74.8)
18.5
(65.3)
13.3
(55.9)
8.1
(46.6)
3.0
(37.4)
13.2
(55.8)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)−0.7
(30.7)
0.6
(33.1)
4.2
(39.6)
8.8
(47.8)
13.2
(55.8)
16.7
(62.1)
18.4
(65.1)
18.5
(65.3)
14.1
(57.4)
9.4
(48.9)
5.1
(41.2)
0.5
(32.9)
9.1
(48.4)
Record low °C (°F)−26.2
(−15.2)
−25.5
(−13.9)
−14.4
(6.1)
−6.1
(21.0)
−1.4
(29.5)
4.6
(40.3)
8.3
(46.9)
6.7
(44.1)
0.6
(33.1)
−6.9
(19.6)
−11.1
(12.0)
−19.3
(−2.7)
−26.2
(−15.2)
Averageprecipitation mm (inches)47.9
(1.89)
43.5
(1.71)
48.7
(1.92)
51.5
(2.03)
72.3
(2.85)
95.6
(3.76)
66.5
(2.62)
55.1
(2.17)
58.6
(2.31)
54.8
(2.16)
49.6
(1.95)
54.8
(2.16)
698.9
(27.52)
Average precipitation days(≥ 0.1 mm)13.512.311.312.413.512.210.08.49.510.510.813.8138.2
Average snowy days9.77.34.20.70.00.00.00.00.00.13.07.832.8
Averagerelative humidity (%)77.971.462.759.961.962.559.859.565.871.475.179.567.3
Mean monthlysunshine hours70.796.2146.7186.7224.7253.9278.8262.6192.6155.092.160.32,020.3
Averageultraviolet index1235788753214
Source 1: Republic Hydrometeorological Service of Serbia[128]
Source 2: Weather Atlas (UV),[129] Meteo Climat (record highs and lows)[130]

Administration

[edit]
Administrative area of the City of Belgrade on a map ofdistricts of Serbia.
See also:Mayor of Belgrade

Belgrade is a separate territorial unit in Serbia, with its own autonomous city authority.[15] The Assembly of the City of Belgrade has 110 members, elected on four-year terms.[131] A 13-member City Council, elected by the Assembly and presided over by the mayor and his deputy, has the control and supervision of the city administration,[132] which manages day-to-day administrative affairs. It is divided into 14 Secretariats, each having a specific portfolio such as traffic or health care, and several professional services, agencies and institutes.[133]

The2024 Belgrade City Assembly election was won by theSerbian Progressive Party, which formed a ruling coalition with theSocialist Party of Serbia. Between 2004 and 2013, theDemocratic Party was in power.[134] Due to the importance of Belgrade in political and economic life of Serbia, the office of city's mayor is often described as the third most important office in the state, after thePresident of the Government and thePresident of the Republic.[135][136][137]

As the capital city, Belgrade is seat of all Serbian state authorities –executive,legislative,judiciary, and the headquarters of almost all national political parties as well as 75diplomatic missions.[138] This includes theNational Assembly, the Presidency, theGovernment of Serbia and all the ministries,Supreme Court and theConstitutional Court.

Municipalities

[edit]
See also:Subdivisions of Belgrade
Sunset inZemun.

The city is divided into 17 municipalities.[139] Previously, they were classified into 10 urban (lying completely or partially within borders of the city proper) and 7 suburban municipalities, whose centres are smaller towns.[140] With the new 2010 City statute, they were all given equal status, with the proviso that suburban ones (except Surčin) have certain autonomous powers, chiefly related with construction, infrastructure and public utilities.[139]

Brutalist architecture ofNew Belgrade, panoramic view
(view as a 360° interactive panorama)

Most of the municipalities are situated on the southern side of the Danube andSava rivers, in theŠumadija region. Three municipalities (Zemun,Novi Beograd, andSurčin), are on the northern bank of the Sava in theSyrmia region and the municipality ofPalilula, spanning the Danube, is in both theŠumadija andBanat regions.

Municipalities of Belgrade map
MunicipalityClassificationArea (km2)Population (census 2022)Population density (per km2)
Barajevosuburban213.1026,431110
Čukaricaurban156.99175,7931,120
Grockasuburban299.5582,810276
Lazarevacsuburban383.5155,146144
Mladenovacsuburban33948,683144
Novi Beogradurban40.71209,7635,153
Obrenovacsuburban410.1468,882168
Palilulaurban450.59182,624405
Rakovicaurban30.11104,4563,469
Savski Venacurban14.0636,6992,610
Sopotsuburban270.7119,12671
Stari Gradurban5.4044,7378,285
Surčinurban288.4745,452158
Voždovacurban148.52174,8641,177
Vračarurban2.8755,40619,305
Zemunurban149.74177,9081,188
Zvezdaraurban31.49172,6255,482
Total3,234.961,681,405520
Source: Sector for statistics, Belgrade[2]

Demographics

[edit]
Main articles:Demographics of Belgrade andDemographic history of Belgrade
Historical population
YearPop.±% p.a.
142650,000—    
1683100,000+0.27%
18347,033−1.74%
184614,371+6.14%
185918,860+2.11%
186624,768+3.97%
187427,605+1.36%
188435,483+2.54%
189054,763+7.50%
190068,481+2.26%
190577,235+2.44%
191082,498+1.33%
1921111,739+2.80%
1931238,775+7.89%
1948397,911+3.05%
1953477,982+3.73%
1961657,362+4.06%
1971899,094+3.18%
19811,087,915+1.92%
19911,168,409+0.72%
20021,191,213+0.18%
20111,257,958+0.61%
20221,298,661+0.29%
Source: 1426-1683 data:[141]; 1834-1931:[142]; 1948-2011 data:[143]; 2022 data:[4].

According to the 2022 census, the population of the city proper stands at 1,197,114, its contiguous urban area (including the adjacent settlements ofBorča,Kaluđerica, andSurčin) has 1,298,661 inhabitants, while population of city's administrative area (often equated with its metropolitan area) totals 1,681,405 people.[144] However, Belgrade's metropolitan area has not been defined, either statistically or administratively, and itsprawls into the neighboring municipalities ofPančevo,Pećinci, andStara Pazova.

Belgrade is home to many ethnicities from across the former Yugoslavia and the wider Balkans region. The main ethnic group comprising over 86% of the metropolitan population of Belgrade areSerbs (1,449,241). Some significant minorities includeRoma (23,160),Yugoslavs (10,499),Gorani (5,249),Montenegrins (5,134),Russians (4,659),Croats (4,554),Macedonians (4,293), andethnic Muslims (2,718).[145] Many people came to the city as economic migrants from smaller towns and the countryside, while tens of thousands arrived as refugees fromCroatia,Bosnia-Herzegovina andKosovo, as a result of theYugoslav wars of the 1990s.[146] The most recent wave of immigration following theRussian invasion of Ukraine saw tens of thousands of Russians and Ukrainians register their residence in Serbia, majority of them in Belgrade.[147]

Between 10,000 and 20,000[148]Chinese people are estimated to live in Belgrade and, since their arrival in the mid-1990s,Block 70 inNew Belgrade has been known colloquially as the Chinese quarter.[149][150] ManyMiddle Easterners, mainly fromSyria,Iran,Jordan andIraq, arrived in order to pursue their studies during the 1970s and 1980s, and have remained in the city.[151] Throughout the 19th and early 20th century, small communities ofAromanians,Czechs,Greeks,Germans,Hungarians,Jews,Turks,Armenians andRussianWhite émigrés also existed in Belgrade. There are two suburban settlements with significant minority population today:Ovča and the village ofBoljevci, both with about one quarter of their population beingRomanians andSlovaks, respectively. Immigration to Belgrade from other countries accelerates. In 2023, more than 30,000 foreign workers got working and residence permits only in Belgrade.[152]

Downtown Belgrade,House of the National Assembly.

Although there are several historic religious communities in Belgrade, the religious makeup of the city is relatively homogeneous. TheSerbian Orthodox community is by far the largest, with 1,475,168 adherents. There are also 31,914 Muslims, 13,720 Roman Catholics, and 3,128Protestants.

There once was a significantJewish community in Belgrade but, following the World War IINazi occupation of the city and subsequent Jewish emigration, their numbers have fallen from over 10,000 to just 295.[153] Belgrade also used to have one of the largestBuddhist colonies in Europe outside Russia when some 400 mostly BuddhistKalmyks settled on the outskirts of Belgrade following theRussian Civil War. The first Buddhist temple in Europe was built in Belgrade in 1929. Most of them moved away after the World War II and their temple,Belgrade pagoda, was abandoned, claimed by the new Communist regime and eventually demolished.[154]

Economy

[edit]
Main article:Economy of Belgrade
See also:Belgrade IT sector andArchitectural projects in Belgrade
Serbian Railways headquarters in Belgrade
Headquarters ofSerbian National Bank

Belgrade is thefinancial centre of Serbia andSoutheast Europe, with a total of 17×10^6 m2 (180×10^6 sq ft) of office space.[155] It is also home to the country'sCentral Bank. 750,550 people are employed (July 2020)[156] in 120,286 companies,[157] 76,307 enterprises and 50,000 shops.[156][158] The City of Belgrade itself owns 267,147 m2 (2,875,550 sq ft) of rentable office space.[159]

As of 2019, Belgrade contained 31.4% of Serbia's employed population and generated over 40.4% of its GDP.[160][161][162] City GDP in 2023 at purchasing power parity is estimated at $73 bn USD, which is $43,400 per capita in terms of purchasing power parity. Nominal GDP in 2023 is estimated at $31.5 bn USD, which is $18.700 per capita.[163]

New Belgrade is the country'sCentral business district and one ofSoutheastern Europe's financial centres. It offers a range of facilities, such as hotels, congress halls (e.g.Sava Centar), Class A and B office buildings, and business parks (e.g.Airport City Belgrade). Over 1.2×10^6 m2 (13×10^6 sq ft) of land is under construction in New Belgrade, with the value of planned construction over the next three years estimated at over 1.5 billion euros. TheBelgrade Stock Exchange is also located in New Belgrade.

Sava Centar, the largest congress, cultural and business center inSerbia andSoutheast Europe and covers an area of ​​100,000m2.

With 6,924 companies in the IT sector (according to 2013 data[update]), Belgrade is one of the foremostinformation technology hubs inSoutheast Europe.[157]Microsoft'sDevelopment Center Serbia, located in Belgrade, was, at the time of its establishment, the fifth such programme on the globe.[164] Many global IT companies choose Belgrade as their European or regional centre of operations, such asAsus,[165]Intel,[166]Dell,[167]Huawei,Ubisoft,Yandex,Nutanix,[168]NCR etc.[169] The most famous Belgrade IT startups, among others, areNordeus,ComTrade Group,MicroE,FishingBooker, andEndava. IT facilities in the city include theMihajlo Pupin Institute and theILR,[170] as well as the brand-new IT Park Zvezdara.[171] Many prominent IT innovators began their careers in Belgrade, includingVoja Antonić andVeselin Jevrosimović.

In April 2025, the averageNew Belgrade CBD monthly net salary stood at 177.418 RSD ($1760)[172] in net terms, with the gross equivalent at 242.254 RSD ($2403), while in Belgrade with suburbs is Euros 1.058 .[172]

According toCushman & Wakefield,Knez Mihajlova street is 36th most expensive retail street in the world in terms of renting commercial space.[173]

As an example of the attractiveness of the city and its importance in this part of the continent is the fact that numerous multinational companies choose precisely Belgrade to place its local headquarters. An early example of this was the multinational food-giantMcDonald's opening its first ever restaurant in a communist country in Europe in Belgrade.[174]

Culture

[edit]
Main article:Culture of Belgrade
Republic Square, Left:National Museum of Serbia – Centre:Courtyard by Marriott Hotel Belgrade – Right:National Theatre.

According to theBBC, Belgrade is one of the five most creative cities in the world.[175]Belgrade hosts many annual international cultural events, including theFilm Festival,Theatre Festival,Summer Festival,BEMUS,Belgrade Early Music Festival,Book Fair,Belgrade Choir Festival,Eurovision Song Contest 2008, and theBeer Fest.[176] In 2022 Belgrade was also home to theEuropride event, even though the Serbian president, Aleksandar Vučić, tried to cancel it.[177] TheNobel Prize winning authorIvo Andrić wrote his most famous work,The Bridge on the Drina, in Belgrade.[178] Other prominent Belgrade authors includeBranislav Nušić,Miloš Crnjanski,Borislav Pekić,Milorad Pavić andMeša Selimović.[179][180][181] The most internationally prominent artists from Belgrade areCharles Simic,Marina Abramović andMilovan Destil Marković.

TheSerbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, national learned society founded in 1841

Most ofSerbia's film industry is based in Belgrade.FEST is an annual film festival that has been held since 1971. Through 2013, the festival had been attended by four million people and had presented almost 4,000 films.[182]

The city was one of the main centres of theYugoslav new wave in the 1980s:VIS Idoli,Ekatarina Velika,Šarlo Akrobata andElektrični Orgazam were all from Belgrade. Other notable Belgrade rock acts includeRiblja Čorba,Bajaga i Instruktori andPartibrejkers.[183][184] Today, it is the centre of theSerbian hip hop scene, with acts such asBeogradski Sindikat,Bad Copy,Škabo,Marčelo, and most of the Bassivity Music stable hailing from or living in the city.[185][186] There are numerous theatres, the most prominent of which areNational Theatre,Theatre on Terazije,Yugoslav Drama Theatre,Zvezdara Theatre, andAtelier 212. TheSerbian Academy of Sciences and Arts is also based in Belgrade, as well as theNational Library of Serbia. Other major libraries include the Belgrade City Library and theBelgrade University Library. Belgrade's two opera houses are:National Theatre andMadlenianum Opera House.[187][188] Following the victory of Serbia's representativeMarija Šerifović at theEurovision Song Contest 2007, Belgrade hosted the Contest in2008.[189]

There are more than 1650public sculptures in Belgrade.[190][191]

Museums

[edit]
See also:List of museums in Belgrade
Museum of Yugoslavia

The most prominent museum in Belgrade is theNational Museum, founded in 1844 and reconstructed from 2003 until June 2018. The museum houses a collection of more than 400,000 exhibits (over 5600 paintings and 8400 drawings and prints, including many foreign masters likeBosch,Juan de Flandes,Titian,Tintoretto,Rubens,Cézanne,G.B. Tiepolo,Renoir,Monet,Lautrec,Matisse,Picasso,Gauguin,Chagall,Van Gogh,Mondrian etc.) and also the famousMiroslav's Gospel.[192] TheEthnographic Museum, established in 1901, contains more than 150,000 items showcasing the rural and urban culture of the Balkans, particularly the countries offormer Yugoslavia.[193]

TheMuseum of Contemporary Art was the first contemporary art museum in Yugoslavia and one of the first museums of this type in the world.[194] Following its foundation in 1965, has amassed a collection of more than 8,000 works from art produced across the former Yugoslavia.[195] The collection represents some of the most notable Serbian and Yugoslav 20th century artists, includingSava Šumanović,Nadežda Petrović,Petar Dobrović,Milena Pavlović-Barili,Milan Konjović,Zora Petrović,Đorđe Andrejević Kun,Vladimir Veličković,Petar Lubarda,Krsto Hegedušić,Mića Popović,Ivan Meštrović,Antun Augustinčić,Toma Rosandić,Olga Jevrić,Olga Jančić,Lojze Dolinar, among others.[196][197] The museum was closed in 2007, but has since been reopened in 2017 to focus on the modern as well as on the Yugoslav art scenes.[198] ArtistMarina Abramović, who was born in Belgrade, held an exhibition in the Museum of Contemporary Art, which theNew York Times described as one of the most important cultural happenings in the world in 2019.[199][200] The exhibition was seen by almost 100,000 visitors. Marina Abramović made a stage speech and performance in front of 20,000 people.[201] In the heart of Belgrade you can also find theMuseum of Applied Arts, a museum that has been awarded for the Institution of the Year 2016 byICOM.[202]

Museum of Contemporary Art

TheMilitary Museum, established in 1878 in Kalemegdan, houses a wide range of more than 25,000 military objects dating from the prehistoric to the medieval to the modern eras. Notable items include Turkish and oriental arms, national banners, andYugoslav Partisan regalia.[203][204]

TheAviation Museum, located nearBelgrade Nikola Tesla Airport, has more than 200 aircraft, of which about 50 are on display, and a few of which are the only surviving examples of their type, such as theFiat G.50. This museum also displays parts of shot down US andNATO aircraft, such as theF-117 andF-16.[205]

TheNikola Tesla Museum, founded in 1952, preserves the personal items ofNikola Tesla, the inventor after whom theTesla unit was named. It holds around 160,000 original documents and around 5,700 personal other items including his urn.[206] The last of the major Belgrade museums is theMuseum of Vuk and Dositej, which showcases the lives, work and legacy ofVuk Stefanović Karadžić andDositej Obradović, the 19th century reformer of the Serbian literary language and the first Serbian Minister of Education, respectively.[207] Belgrade also houses theMuseum of African Art, founded in 1977, which has a large collection of art from West Africa.[208]

With around 95,000 copies of national and international films, theYugoslav Cinematheque is the largest in the region and among the 10 largest archives in the world.[209] The institution also operates the Museum of Yugoslav Cinematheque, with movie theatre and exhibition hall. The archive's long-standing storage problems were finally solved in 2007, when a new modern depository was opened.[210] TheYugoslav Film Archive also exhibits originalCharlie Chaplin's stick and one of the first movies byAuguste and Louis Lumière.[211]

TheBelgrade City Museum moved into a new building in downtown in 2006.[212] The museum hosts a range of collections covering the history of urban life since prehistory.[213] Belgrade City Museum also includes additional sites, such asIvo Andrić Museum,Princess Ljubica's Residence,Paja Jovanović Museum,Jovan Cvijić Museum.[214] TheMuseum of Yugoslavia has collections from the Yugoslav era. Beside paintings, the most valuable areMoon rocks donated byApollo 11 crewNeil Armstrong,Buzz Aldrin andMichael Collins while visiting Belgrade in 1969 and from missionApollo 17 donated byRichard Nixon in 1971.[215] The museum also housesJoseph Stalin's sabre with 260 brilliants and diamonds, donated by Stalin himself.[216] TheMuseum of Science and Technology, founded in 1989, moved to the building of the first city's power plant in Dorćol in 2005.[217][218]

Architecture

[edit]
See also:List of buildings in Belgrade,List of streets and squares in Belgrade,Bridges of Belgrade,Architectural projects in Belgrade,Religious architecture in Belgrade, andGates of Belgrade
Hotel Moskva.

Belgrade has wildly varying architecture, from the centre ofZemun, typical of a Central European town,[219] to the more modern architecture and spacious layout ofNew Belgrade.

The oldest architecture is found in Kalemegdan Park. Outside of Kalemegdan, the oldest buildings date only from the 18th century, due to its geographic position and frequent wars and destructions.[220] The oldest public structure in Belgrade is a nondescript Turkishtürbe, while the oldest house is a modest clay house onDorćol, from late 18th century.[221] Western influence began in the 19th century, when the city completely transformed from an oriental town to the contemporary architecture of the time, with influences fromneoclassicism,romanticism, andacademic art. Serbian architects took over the development from foreign builders in the late 19th century, producing theNational Theatre,Stari Dvor,Cathedral Church and later, in the early 20th century, theHouse of the National Assembly andNational Museum, influenced byart nouveau.[220] Elements ofSerbo-Byzantine Revival are present in buildings such asVuk Foundation House, old Post Office in Kosovska street, and sacral architecture, such asSt. Mark's Church (based on theGračanica monastery), and theChurch of Saint Sava.[220] In the socialist period, housing was built quickly and cheaply for the huge influx of people fleeing the countryside following World War II, sometimes resulting in thebrutalist architecture of theblokovi ('blocks') ofNew Belgrade; asocrealism trend briefly ruled, resulting in buildings like theTrade Union Hall.[220] However, in the mid-1950s,modernist trends took over, and still dominate the Belgrade architecture.[220] Belgrade has the second oldest sewer system in Europe.[222] TheClinical Centre of Serbia spreads over 34 hectares and consists of about 50 buildings, while also has 3,150 beds considered to be the highest number in Europe,[223] and amonghighest in the world.[224]

Tourism

[edit]
See also:Tourism in Serbia
Church of Saint Sava

Lying on the main artery connecting Europe and Asia, as well as, eventually, theOrient Express, Belgrade has been a popular place for travellers through the centuries. In 1843, on Dubrovačka Street (today Kralj Petar Street ), Serbia'sknezMihailo Obrenović built a large edifice which became the first hotel in Belgrade:Kod jelena ('at the deer's'), in the neighbourhood ofKosančićev Venac. Many criticised the move at the time due to the cost and the size of the building, but it soon became the gathering point of the Principality's wealthiest citizens. Colloquially, the building was also referred to as thestaro zdanje, or the 'old edifice'. It remained a hotel until 1903 before being demolished in 1938.[225][226] After thestaro zdanje, numerous hotels were built in the second half of the 19th century:Nacional andGrand, also in Kosančićev Venac,Srpski Kralj,Srpska Kruna,Grčka Kraljica near Kalemegdan,Balkan andPariz inTerazije,London, etc.[227]

Kalemegdan
Jevremovac Botanical Garden

As Belgrade became connected via steamboats and railway (after 1884), the number of visitors grew and new hotels were opened with luxurious commodities. In Savamala, the hotelsBosna andBristol were opened. Other hotels includedSolun andOrient, which was built near theFinancial Park. Tourists who arrived by theOrient Express mostly stayed at the Petrograd Hotel inWilson Square. HotelSrpski Kralj, at the corner of Uzun Mirkova and Pariska Streets was considered the best hotel in Belgrade during theInterbellum. It was destroyed during World War II.[227]

The historic areas and buildings of Belgrade are among the city's premier attractions. They includeSkadarlija, theNational Museum and adjacentNational Theatre,Zemun,Nikola Pašić Square, Terazije,Students' Square, theKalemegdan Fortress,Knez Mihailova Street, theParliament, theChurch of Saint Sava, and theOld Palace. On top of this, there are many parks, monuments, museums, cafés, restaurants and shops on both sides of the river. The hilltopAvala Monument andAvala Tower offer views over the city. According toThe Guardian,Dorćol is the one of top ten coolest suburbs in Europe.[228]The elite neighbourhood ofDedinje is situated near theTopčider andKošutnjak parks. TheDedinje Royal Compound which houses the former royal residences of (Kraljevski Dvor andBeli Dvor) is open for visitors. The palace has many valuable artworks.[229] Nearby,Josip Broz Tito's mausoleum, calledThe House of Flowers, documents the life of the former Yugoslav president.[230]

Ada Ciganlija is a former island on theSava River, and Belgrade's biggest sports and recreational complex. Today it is connected with the right bank of the Sava via two causeways, creating an artificial lake. It is the most popular destination for Belgraders during the city's hot summers. There are 7 km (4 mi) of long beaches and sports facilities for various sports including golf,football, basketball, volleyball,rugby union, baseball, and tennis.[231] During summer there are between 200,000 and 300,000 bathers daily.[232]

Belgrade is also known for tourist activities involving extreme sports such asbungee jumping,water skiing, andpaintballing.[231][233] There are numerous trails on the island, where it is possible to ride a bike, go for a walk, or go jogging.[231][233] Apart from Ada, Belgrade has total of 16 islands[234] on the rivers, many still unused. Among them, theGreat War Island, at the confluence of Sava, stands out as an oasis of unshattered wildlife (especially birds).[235] These areas, along with nearbySmall War Island, are protected by the city's government as anature preserve.[236] There are37 protected natural resources in the Belgrade urban area, among which eight are geo-heritage sites, i.e.Straževica profile, Mašin Majdan-Topčider, Profile at theKalemegdan Fortress, Abandoned quarry inBarajevo, Karagača valley, Artesian well inOvča, Kapelaloess profile, and Lake inSremčica. Other 29 places are biodiversity sites.[237]

Tourist income in 2016 amounted to nearly half a billioneuros;[238] with a visit of almost a million registered tourists.[239] Of those, in 2019 more than 100,000 tourists arrived by 742 river cruisers.[239][240] Average annual growth is between 13% and 14%.[239]

As of 2018, there are three officially designatedcamp grounds in Belgrade. The oldest one is located inBatajnica, along the Batajnica Road. Named "Dunav", it is one of the most visited campsites in the country. The second one is situated within the complex of the ethno-household "Zornić's House" in the village ofBaćevac, while the third is located inRipanj, on the slopes of Avala mountain. In 2017 some 15,000 overnights were recorded in camps.[241]

Belgrade is a common stop on theRivers Route, Europeancycling route known as "Danube Bike Trail" in Serbia as well as on theSultans Trail, a long-distance hiking footpath betweenVienna andIstanbul.

Nightlife

[edit]
Main article:Nightlife in Belgrade
Dorćol, Belgrade downtown at night.
Belgrade nightlife

Belgrade has a reputation for vibrant nightlife; manyclubs that are open until dawn can be found throughout the city.[242] The most recognisable nightlife features of Belgrade are the barges (splav) spread along the banks of the Sava and Danube.[243][244][245]

Many weekend visitors—particularly fromBosnia and Herzegovina,Croatia andSlovenia—prefer Belgrade nightlife to that of their own capitals due to its perceived friendly atmosphere, plentiful clubs and bars, cheap drinks, lack of significant language barriers, and a lack of night life regulation.[246][247]One of the most famous sites for alternative cultural happenings in the city is the SKC (Student Cultural Centre), located right across from Belgrade's highrise landmark, theBelgrade Palace tower. Concerts featuring famous local and foreign bands are often held at the centre. SKC is also the site of various art exhibitions, as well as public debates and discussions.[248]

A more traditional Serbian nightlife experience, accompanied by traditional music known asStarogradska (roughly translated asOld Town Music), typical of northern Serbia's urban environments, is most prominent inSkadarlija, the city's oldbohemian neighbourhood where the poets and artists of Belgrade gathered in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Skadar Street (the centre of Skadarlija) and the surrounding neighbourhood are lined with some of Belgrade's best and oldest traditional restaurants (calledkafanas in Serbian), which date back to that period.[249] At one end of the neighbourhood stands Belgrade's oldest beer brewery, founded in the first half of the 19th century.[250] One of the city's oldest kafanas is theZnak pitanja ('?').[251]

The Times reported that Europe's best nightlife can be found in Belgrade.[252] In theLonely Planet1000 Ultimate Experiences Guide of 2009, Belgrade was placed at the 1st spot among the top 10 party cities in the world.[253]

Fashion and design

[edit]

Since 1996,[254] semiannual (autumn/winter and spring/summer seasons)fashion weeks are held citywide. Numerous Serbian and foreign designers and fashion brands have their shows duringBelgrade Fashion Week. The festival, which collaborates withLondon Fashion Week, has helped launch the international careers of local talents such asGeorge Styler andAna Ljubinković. British fashion designerRoksanda Ilinčić, who was born in the city, also frequently presents her runway shows in Belgrade.

In addition to fashion, there are two major design shows held in Belgrade every year which attract international architects and industrial designers such asKarim Rashid,Daniel Libeskind,Patricia Urquiola, andKonstantin Grcic. Both theMikser Festival andBelgrade Design Week feature lectures, exhibits and competitions. Furthermore, international designers likeSacha Lakic,Ana Kraš,Bojana Sentaler, andMarek Djordjevic are originally from Belgrade.

Media

[edit]
See also:List of media organisations in Belgrade
Tanjug, the former Serbian state-owned news agency building.

Belgrade is the most important media hub in Serbia. The city is home to the main headquarters of the national broadcasterRadio Television Serbia (RTS), which is a public service broadcaster.[255] The most popular commercial broadcaster isRTV Pink, a Serbian media multinational, known for its popular entertainment programmes. One of the most popular commercial broadcasters isB92, another media company, which has its own TV station, radio station, and music and book publishing arms, as well as the most popular website on the Serbian internet.[256][257] Other TV stations broadcasting from Belgrade include1Prva (formerlyFox televizija),Nova,N1 and others which only cover the greater Belgrade municipal area, such asStudio B.

High-circulation daily newspapers published in Belgrade includePolitika,Blic,Alo!,Kurir andDanas. There are two sporting dailies,Sportski žurnal andSport, and one economic daily,Privredni pregled. A new free distribution daily,24 sata, was founded in the autumn of 2006. Also, Serbian editions of licensed magazines such asHarper's Bazaar,Elle,Cosmopolitan,National Geographic,Men's Health,Grazia and others have their headquarters in the city.

Sport and recreation

[edit]
See also:List of sporting events in Belgrade
Ada Ciganlija

There are approximatelyone-thousand sports facilities in Belgrade, many of which are capable of serving all levels of sporting events.[258]

Ada Ciganlija island, with its lake and beaches, is one of the most important recreational areas in the city. With a total of 8 km beaches, and a variety of bars, cafés, restaurants and sport facilities, Ada Ciganlija attracts many visitors, especially in summertime.

Košutnjak Park Forest has numerous running and bike trails, sports facilities for a variety of sports, and indoor and outdoor pools. It is a popular destination that is located only 2 km from Ada Ciganlija.

Stadium
Belgrade Arena

During the 1960s and 1970s Belgrade held a number of major international events such as the first ever World Aquatics Championships in1973,1976 European Football Championship and1973 European Cup Final, European Athletics Championships in1962 andEuropean Indoor Games in 1969, European Basketball Championships in1961 and1975, European Volleyball Championship formen andwomen in 1975 and World Amateur Boxing Championships in1978.

Since the early 2000s Belgrade again hosts major sporting events nearly every year. Some of these includeEuroBasket 2005, European Handball Championship (men's andwomen's) in 2012,World Handball Championship for women in 2013, European Volleyball Championships for men in2005 for men and2011 for women, the 2006 and 2016European Water Polo Championship, theEuropean Youth Olympic Festival 2007 and the2009 Summer Universiade.[259] More recently, Belgrade hostedEuropean Athletics Indoor Championships in 2017 and the basketballEuroLeague Final Four tournaments in 2018 and 2022. Global and continental championships in other sports such astennis,futsal,judo,karate,wrestling,rowing,kickboxing,table tennis, andchess have also been held in recent years.

The city is home to Serbia's two biggest and most successfulfootball clubs,Red Star Belgrade andPartizan Belgrade. Red Star won theUEFA Champions League (European Cup) in1991, and Partizan was runner-up in1966. The two major stadiums in Belgrade areMarakana (Red Star Stadium) andPartizan Stadium.[260] Therivalry between Red Star and Partizan is one of the fiercest in world football.[261]

With a capacity of 19,384 spectators,Belgrade Arena is one of the largest indoor arenas in Europe.[262] It is used for major sporting events and large concerts. In May 2008, it was the venue for the53rd Eurovision Song Contest.[263]Aleksandar Nikolić Hall is the main venue ofbasketball clubsKK Partizan, the European champion of 1992, andKK Crvena Zvezda.[264][265]In recent years, Belgrade has also given rise to several world-class tennis players such asAna Ivanovic,Jelena Janković andNovak Djokovic. Ivanovic and Djokovic are the first female and male Belgraders, respectively, to winGrand Slam singles titles and beenATP number 1 withJelena Janković. The Serbian national team won the2010 Davis Cup, beating the French team in the finals played in theBelgrade Arena.[266]

TheBelgrade Marathon is held annually since 1988. Belgrade was a candidate to host the 1992 and the 1996Summer Olympic Games.[267][268]

Education

[edit]
See also:List of educational institutions in Belgrade
Administration Building of the University of Belgrade.
Palace of Science.

Belgrade has two state universities and several private institutions of higher education. TheUniversity of Belgrade, founded in 1808 as agrande école, is the oldest institution of higher learning in Serbia.[269] Having developed with much of the rest of the city in the 19th century, several university buildings are recognised as forming a constituent part of Belgrade's architecture andcultural heritage. With enrolment numbers of nearly 90,000 students, the university is one of Europe's largest.[270]

The city is also home to 195 primary (elementary) schools and 85 secondary schools. The primary school system has 162 regular schools, 14special schools, 15 art schools, and 4 adult schools, while the secondary school system has 51 vocational schools, 21gymnasiums, 8 art schools and 5 special schools. The 230,000 pupils are managed by 22,000 employees in over 500 buildings, covering around 1.1×10^6 m2 (12×10^6 sq ft).[271]

Transportation

[edit]
Main article:Transport in Belgrade
See also:Trams in Belgrade andBridges in Belgrade
Belgrade Centre Railway Station
Trams in Belgrade
GSP Belgrade.

Belgrade has an extensive public transport system consisting of buses (118 urban lines and more than 300 suburban lines), trams (12 lines),trolleybuses (8 lines) andS-TrainBG Voz (6 lines).[272][273] Buses, trolleybuses and trams are run byGSP Beograd andSP Lasta in cooperation with private companies on some bus routes. TheS-train network,BG Voz, run by city government in cooperation withSerbian Railways, is a part of the integrated transport system, and has three lines (Batajnica-Ovča and Ovča-Resnik and Belgrade centre-Mladenovac), with more announced.[274][275] As of 27 February 2024[update] tickets may be purchased either via SMS or in physical paper form via theBeograd plus /Београд плус system.[276] Daily connections link the capital to other towns in Serbia and many other European destinations through the city'scentral bus station. Since January 2025 all public transport in Belgrade is free.[277]

Beovoz was thesuburban/commuter railway network that providedmass-transit services in the city, similar to Paris'sRER and Toronto'sGO Transit. The main usage of system was to connect the suburbs with the city centre. Beovoz was operated bySerbian Railways.[278] However, this system was abolished back in 2013, mostly due to introduction of more efficient BG Voz. Belgrade is one of the last big European capitals and cities with over a million people to have no metro or subway or otherrapid transit system. As of 2025, theBelgrade Metro is currently under construction, which will have 2 lines. The first line is expected to be operational by August 2028.[279][280]

The newBelgrade Centre railway station is the hub for almost all national and international trains. Thehigh-speed rail that connects Belgrade withNovi Sad started its service on 19 March 2022.[281] The extension towardsSubotica andBudapest is under construction,[282] and there are plans for a southwards extension towardsNiš andNorth Macedonia.[283]

The city is placed along thePan-European corridorsX and VII.[9] The motorway system provides for easy access toNovi Sad andBudapest to the north,Niš to the south, andZagreb to the west. Expressway is also toward Pančevo and new Expressway construction toward Obrenovac (Montenegro) is scheduled for March 2017.Belgrade bypass is connecting theE70 andE75 motorways and is under construction.[284]

Situated at the confluence of two major rivers, the Danube and the Sava, Belgrade has 11 bridges, the most important of which areBranko's Bridge,Gazela Bridge,Ada Bridge andPupin Bridge, the first two of which connect the core of the city toNew Belgrade. In addition, an 'inner magistral semi-ring' is almost done and includes a new Ada bridge across the Sava river (opened in 2012)[285] and a new Pupin bridge (opened in 2014)[286] across the Danube, which easecommuting within the city and unload traffic from the Gazela Bridge and Branko's Bridge.[287]

ThePort of Belgrade is on the Danube, and allows the city to receive goods by river.[288] The city is also served byBelgrade Nikola Tesla Airport, 12 km (7.5 mi) west of the city centre, nearSurčin. At its peak in 1986, almost 3 million passengers travelled through the airport, though that number dwindled to a trickle in the 1990s.[289] Following renewed growth in 2000, the number of passengers reached approximately 2 million in 2004 and 2005,[290] over 2.6 million passengers in 2008,[291] reaching over 3 million passengers.[292] A record with over 4 million passengers was broken in 2014, when BelgradeNikola Tesla Airport became the second fastest growing major airport in Europe.[293] The numbers continued to grow steadily and the all-time peak of over 6 million passengers was reached in 2019.[294]

International relations

[edit]

Twin towns – sister cities

[edit]
See also:List of twin towns and sister cities in Serbia
Because of the heroic strength of its defenders, French marshalLouis Franchet d'Espèrey decorated Belgrade with the Legion of Honor in 1920.

List of Belgrade's sister and twin cities:[295]

Partner cities

[edit]

Other friendships and cooperations, protocols, memorandums:[295]

  • Bosnia and HerzegovinaSarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina, since 2018, Memorandum of Understanding on Cooperation
  • MoroccoRabat, Morocco, since 2017, Partnership and Cooperation Agreement
  • South KoreaSeoul, South Korea, since 2017, Memorandum of Understanding on Friendly Exchanges and Cooperation
  • KazakhstanAstana, Kazakhstan, since 2016, Agreement on Cooperation[305]
  • IranTehran, Iran, since 2016, Agreement on Cooperation[306]
  • GreeceCorfu, Greece, since 2010, Protocol on Cooperation
  • ChinaShenzhen, China, since 2009, Agreement on Cooperation[307]
  • CroatiaZagreb, Croatia, since 2003, Letter of Intent
  • UkraineKyiv, Ukraine, since 2002, Agreement on Cooperation
  • AlgeriaAlgiers, Algeria, since 1991 declaration of mutual interests
  • IsraelTel Aviv, Israel, since 1990, Agreement on Cooperation
  • RomaniaBucharest, Romania, since 1999, Agreement on Cooperation
  • ChinaBeijing, China, since 1980, Agreement on Cooperation[308]
  • ItalyRome, Italy, since 1971, Agreement on Friendship and Cooperation
  • GreeceAthens, Greece, since 1966, Agreement on Friendship and Cooperation

Some of the city's municipalities are also twinned to small cities or districts of other big cities; for details see their respective articles.

Belgrade has received various domestic and international honours, including the FrenchLégion d'honneur (proclaimed 21 December 1920; Belgrade is one of four cities outside France, alongsideLiège,Luxembourg andVolgograd, to receive this honour), theCzechoslovak War Cross (awarded 8 October 1925), the YugoslavianOrder of the Karađorđe's Star (awarded 18 May 1939) and the YugoslavianOrder of the People's Hero (proclaimed on 20 October 1974, the 30th anniversary of the overthrow ofNazi German occupation during World War II).[309] All of these decorations were received for the war efforts during World War I and World War II.[310] In 2006,Financial Times' magazineForeign Direct Investment awarded Belgrade the title ofCity of the Future of Southern Europe.[311][312]

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^alsoUS:/bɛlˈɡrɑːd,-ˈɡræd/bel-GRAHD, -⁠GRAD,/ˈbɛlɡrɑːd,-ɡræd/BEL-grahd, -⁠grad[7][8]
  2. ^/bɛlˈɡrd/bel-GRAYD,/ˈbɛlɡrd/BEL-grayd;[a]Serbian:Београд /Beograd,lit.'White City',pronounced[beǒɡrad]
  1. ^Yugoslavia was first named so with the1929 constitutional changes. The countrycollapsed by 1992, at which point the polity called theFederal Republic of Yugoslavia persisted under the name until its renaming to Serbia and Montenegro in 2003, anddissolution in 2006.

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