Baltistan بلتستان སྦལ་ཏི་སྟཱན་། Burushaski : baloi | |
|---|---|
 A map of the disputedKashmir region showing the Pakistani administered region of Baltistan, a part of Pakistani-administeredGilgit-Baltistan | |
| Coordinates:35°18′N75°37′E / 35.300°N 75.617°E /35.300; 75.617 | |
| Administering Country | Pakistan |
| Territory | Gilgit-Baltistan |
| Government | |
| • Type | Divisional Administration |
| • Commissioner | Shuja Alam (PAS) |
| • Deputy Inspector General (DIG) | Cap. (R) Liaquat Ali Malik (PSP) |
| Area | |
• Total | 30,000 km2 (12,000 sq mi) |
| Population (2022)[2] | |
• Total | 637,450 |
| Languages | |
Baltistan (English:/ˌbɔːltɪˈstɑːn/,Urdu:[bəlt̪ɪst̪aːn]);[4] also known asBaltiyul orLittle Tibet, is a mountainous region in thePakistani-administered territory ofGilgit-Baltistan and constitutes a northern portion of the largerKashmir region that has been the subject of a dispute betweenIndia and Pakistan since 1947. It is located near theKarakoram (south ofK2) and bordersGilgit to the west,China'sXinjiang to the north,Indian-administeredLadakh to the southeast, and the Indian-administeredKashmir Valley to the southwest.[5][6] The average altitude of the region is over 3,350 metres (10,990 ft). Baltistan is largely administered under theBaltistan Division.
Prior to thepartition of British India in 1947, Baltistan was part of theprincely state ofJammu and Kashmir, having been conquered byGulab Singh's armies in 1840.[7] Baltistan and Ladakh were administered jointly under onewazarat (district) of the state. The region retained its identity in this setup as theSkardutehsil, withKargil andLeh being the other twotehsils of the district.[8] AfterHari Singh, the lastmaharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, acceded to theDominion of India in 1947, his local governor in Gilgit was overthrown by theGilgit Scouts, who then took the entire region for Pakistan during theIndo-Pakistani War of 1947–1948. TheGilgit Agency and Skardutehsil, as well as a portion of Kargiltehsil,[note 1] have since been under Pakistani governance[13] while the Kashmir Valley as well as Lehtehsil and most of the Kargiltehsil remain under Indian governance. TheChorbat Valley, geographically in the Baltistan region, wasde-facto partitioned when its four villages (with oneBogdang already under Indian control since 1947) werecaptured by India during theIndo-Pakistani War of 1971, and were incorporated into the erstwhilestate of Jammu and Kashmir (now in Ladakh).[14][15]
The region is inhabited primarily by theBalti people, a largelyMuslim ethnic group ofTibetan descent. Baltistan is strategically significant to both Pakistan and India; theSiachen conflict and theKargil War took place in this region alongside others.
Like other Islamic regions near the Indian subcontinent, the name Baltistan is likely created by adding thePersian suffix -istan to the name of theBalti people, who lived here before the Islamic conquests.[16]
The 1911Encyclopaedia Britannica characterises Baltistan as the western extremity ofTibet,[17] whose natural limits are theIndus River from its abrupt southward bend around the map point35°52′N74°43′E / 35.86°N 74.72°E /35.86; 74.72 (Bend in the Indus course) and the mountains to the north and west. These features separate a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from theIndo-Aryan tribes to the west.Muslim writers around the 16th century speak of Baltistan as the "Little Tibet", and ofLadakh as the "Great Tibet", emphasising theirethnological similarity.[17] According to Ahmad Hassan Dani, Baltistan spreads upwards from the Indus river and is separated from Ladakh by theSiachen Glacier.[18] It includes the Indus valley and the lower valley of theShyok river.[19]
Baltistan is a rocky mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation beinggneiss. In the north is theBaltoro Glacier, one of the longest glaciers outside of the polar regions, 56 kilometres (35 mi) long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 7,600 m (25,000 ft) and to the north 8,615 m (28,265 ft).[17]
The Indus river runs in a narrow gorge, widening after receiving theShyok river at35°14′N75°55′E / 35.23°N 75.92°E /35.23; 75.92 (Shyok joins Indus). It then forms a 32-kilometre (20 mi) crescent-shaped plain varying between 2 and 8 kilometres (1 and 5 mi) in width.[20] The main inhabitable valleys ofKharmang,Khaplu,Skardu,Shigar andRoundu are along the routes of these rivers.
The village ofChalunkha, now inLeh district, is traditionally considered the southernmost settlement of Baltistan, delimiting it from theNubra region of Ladakh.[21] The traditional boundary of Baltistan with Ladakh along Nubra valley was finalised in the early 19th century by the ruler of Khaplu,[22] while that of along Suru valley was demarcated at Ghargurdo, betweenGanokh andGarkon, in the 17th century following a battle between the Balti kingAli Sher Anchan and GyalpoJamyang Namgyal. Ruins of a series of watchtowers, which were jointly guarded by the both kingdoms, are still found here.[23] A few villages of theKharmangilaqa, such asHardas and Karkichu in theSuru River Valley, remained part of Kargil after theFirst Kashmir War.[24] They mark the former southern boundary of Baltistan, and are populated by ethnic Baltis till today.[21]
The Baltistan is one of three divisions ofGilgit-Baltistan. The Division of Baltistan is administed under a BPS-20 Commissioner ofPakistan Administrative Service group ofCentral Superior Services of Pakistan. The current Commissioner Baltistan Division is Shula Alam (PAS).
| Valley | District | District Area (km2) | Population (1998) | Capital |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Khaplu | Ghanche | 8,531 | 88,366 | Khaplu |
| Skardu | Skardu | 10,168 | 219,209 | Skardu |
| Shigar | Shigar | 4,173 | 60,295 | Center Shigar |
| Kharmang | Kharmang | 6,144 | 62,522 | Tolti |
| Roundu | Roundu | ... | 80,000 | Dambudas |
| Chorbat° | Leh and | 883 (In Leh) | Turtuk |
°*Although part of Baltistan, Chorbat valley has beende-facto partitioned between Pakistan and India, after territorial exchanges during1972 Simla treaty.
TibetanKhampa entered inKhaplu throughChorbat Valley andDardic tribes came to Baltistan throughRoundu Valley fromGilgit prior to civilization, and these groups eventually settled down, resulting in the genesis of the Balti people.[25]
Today, the people ofKharmang andEastern Khaplu have Tibetan features and those in Skardu,Shigar and the western villages of Khaplu areDards.[26] It was believed that the Balti people were in the sphere of influence ofZhangzhung. Baltistan was controlled by the Tibetan king in 686. Culturally influenced by Tibet, theBon andanimist Baltis began to adoptTibetan Buddhism. Religious artifacts such asgompas andstupas were built, andlamas played an important role in Balti life.[27][28][29]
For centuries, Baltistan consisted of small, independent valley states connected by the blood relationships of its rulers (rajas), trade, common beliefs and cultural and linguistic bonds.[30] Baltistan was known as Little Tibet, and the name was extended to include Ladakh.[17] Ladakh later became known as Great Tibet. Locally, Baltistan is known asBaltiyul and Ladakh and Baltistan are known as Maryul ("red country").[31]
Medieval Baltistan was divided into three main kingdoms: Skardu, Shigar, and Khaplu. TheMaqpon dynasty, which ruled from Skardu, also later established side branches atKartaksho andRoundu.[32]: 243
During the 14th century, Muslim scholars from Kashmir crossed Baltistan's mountainous terrain to spread Islam.[33] TheNoorbakshia Sufi order further propagated the faith in Baltistan and Islam became dominant by the end of the 17th century. With the passage of time a large number also converted toShia Islam and a few converted toSunni Islam.[34]
In 1190,Maqpon dynasty ofSkardu was founded by Ibrahim Shah (1190-1220), who was born inSkardu. This royal family ruled over Baltistan for approximately 700 years.[35] The kings of the Maqpon dynasty extended the frontiers of Baltistan toGilgit Agency,[36]Chitral, andLadakh.[37] In the late 1500s/early 1600s, the Maqpon rulers of Skardu expanded their kingdom to include Shigar, Astor, Rondu, and Karataksha. The greatest ruler during this period was Alī Sher Khān, known as "Anchan", or "the Great". After the Mughal conquest of Kashmir in 1586, during the reign of Anchan's grandfather Ghāzī Mīr, diplomatic relations developed between the Mughals and the Maqpon rulers of Baltistan. A Balti princess was sent to the Mughal court, and according to local tradition, a Mughal princess was also sent to Skardu and built aMughal-style fort atMandok. Around 1595, the Mughal historianAbu'l-Fazl wrote that Kashmir was then importingsilkworm eggs (forsericulture) from Gilgit and Baltistan.[32]: 243–4
TheKharmang came under the control of theNamgyal royal family and developed a close relationship with Ladakh when theraja of Ladakh, Jamyang Mangyal, attacked the principalities in Kargil. Mangyal annihilated the Skardu garrison at Kharbu and put to the sword a number of petty Muslim rulers in the principalities of Purik (Kargil).Ali Sher Khan Anchan,raja ofKhaplu andShigar, left with a strong army viaMarol. Passing the Laddakhi army, he occupiedLeh (the capital of Ladakh) and theraja of Ladakh was taken prisoner.[38][39][40]
Ali Sher Khan Anchan included Gilgit andChitral in his kingdom of Baltistan,[41] reportedly a flourishing country. The valley from Khepchne to Kachura was flat and fertile, with abundant fruit trees; the sandy desert now extending from Sundus toSkardu Airport was a prosperous town. Skardu had hardly recovered from the shock of the death of Anchan when it was flooded.
After the death of Anchan in 1633, the Maqpon polity declined as his three sons fought among themselves. One of them, Adam Khān, had fled to Kashmir and then sought refuge with the Mughal emperorJahāngīr while Anchan was still alive. In 1637, Adam accompanied a Mughal expedition into Baltistan led byZafar Khān. Adam's elder brother (and rival) Abdāl was captured, and Zafar Khān announced Mughalsuzerainty over Baltistan. However, with winter coming, Zafar hastily withdrew his troops from Baltistan and appointed one of Abdāl's partisans to govern the territory on his behalf, which upset the Mughal emperorShāh Jahān. Ultimately, though, Adam Khān ended up taking control of Baltistan. Both he and his successor, Murād Khān, acknowledged Mughal suzerainty.[32]: 243–4
The Kingdom of Khaplu probably came into existence around the 10th century following the breakup of theTibetan Empire. Its ruling dynasty was known as the Yabgu dynasty, after the Turkish title ofyabghu. The local population was Buddhist up until around the 14th century, when Sayyid Alī Hamadānī is credited with spreading Islam to the region. Khaplu was conquered by Skardu under Alī Sher Khān Anchan in the early 1600s. From then on, it was administered by a governor, orkharpon, appointed by the ruler in Skardu. The last kharpon was Yulehing Karīm, who governed Khaplu from 1820 to 1840, when the Dogra commanderZorāwar Singh conquered it.[32]: 246
The official Mughal historianAbdul Hamid Lahori left an account of Baltistan in his entry for the year 1638. He wrote that Baltistan had 22parganas and 37 forts. Its narrow mountain valleys could support limited cultivation, primarily of wheat and barley; certain fruits also thrived in the local climate. Rather poor-quality gold was collected from river sands in small amounts – only about 2,000tolas (about 9.5 kg) was collected per year.[32]: 244
In 1840, the region was subjugated by theDogra rulers ofJammu under the suzerainty of theSikh Empire.[42][43] On 29 August 2009 the government ofPakistan announced the creation of Gilgit–Baltistan, a provincial autonomous region withGilgit as its capital andSkardu its largest city.[citation needed]
Skardu has several tourist resorts and many natural features, including plains, mountains and mountain-valley lakes. TheDeosai plain,Satpara Lake and Basho also host tourists. North of Skardu, the Shigar Valley offers plains, hiking tracks, peaks and campsites. Other valleys in Baltistan region areKhaplu,Rondu,Kachura Lake andKharmang.
Baltistan is a rocky wilderness of around 70,000 square kilometres (27,000 sq mi),[44] with the largest cluster of mountains in the world and the biggestglaciers outside the polar regions. TheHimalayas advance into this region from India, Tibet and Nepal, and north of them are the Karakoram range. Both ranges run northwest, separated by theIndus River. Along the Indus and its tributaries are many valleys. Glaciers includeBaltoro Glacier,Biafo Glacier,Siachen Glacier,Trango Glacier andGodwin-Austen Glacier.
Baltistan is home to more than 20 peaks of over 6,100 metres (20,000 ft), includingK2 (the second-highest mountain on earth.[27] Other well-known peaks includeMasherbrum (also known as K1),Broad Peak,Hidden Peak,Gasherbrum II,Gasherbrum IV andChogolisa (in theKhaplu Valley). The following peaks have been scaled:
| Name | Height | Date climbed | Location | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| K2 |  | 8,610 m (28,250 ft) | 31 July 1954 | Shigar District |
| Gasherbrum I |  | 8,030 m (26,360 ft) | 7 July 1956 | Ghanche District |
| Broad Peak |  | 8,090 m (26,550 ft) | 9 June 1957 | Ghanche District |
| Muztagh Tower |  | 7,300 m (23,800 ft) | 6 August 1956 | Ghanche District |
| Gasherbrum II | | 7,960 m (26,120 ft) | 4 July 1958 | Ghanche District |
| Hidden Peak |  | 8,070 m (26,470 ft) | 4 July 1957 | Ghanche District |
| Khunyang Chhish |  | 7,852 m (25,761 ft) | 4 July 1971 | Skardu District |
| Masherbrum |  | 7,821 m (25,659 ft) | 4 August 1960 | Ghanche District |
| Saltoro Kangri |  | 7,700 m (25,400 ft) | 4 June 1962 | Ghanche District |
| Chogolisa |  | 7,665 m (25,148 ft) | 4 August 1963 | Ghanche District |
The region has a population of about 303,214 as of 2017.[45] It is a blend of ethnic groups, predominantlyBaltis,[46] andTibetans. A fewKashmiris settled in Skardu, practicing agriculture and woodcraft.
Before the arrival of Islam, Tibetan Buddhism andBön (to a lesser extent) were the main religions in Baltistan. Buddhism can be traced back to before the formation of theTibetan Empire in the region during the seventh century. The region has a number of survivingBuddhist archaeological sites. These include theManthal Buddha Rock, arock relief of the Buddha at the edge of the village (nearSkardu) and theSacred Rock of Hunza. Nearby are former sites of Buddhist shelters.
Islam was brought to Baltistan bySufi missionaries during the 16th and 17th centuries, and most of the population converted toNoorbakshia Islam. The scholars were followers of theKubrawiya Sufi order.[47] Most Noorbakhshi Muslims live in Ghanche.[48]
Baltistan has been called a living museum for wildlife.[49]Deosai National Park, in the southern part of the region, is habitat for predators since it has an abundant prey population. Domestic animals includeyaks (includinghybrid yaks),cattle,sheep,goats,horses anddonkeys. Wild animals includeibex,markhor,musk deer,snow leopards,brown andblack bears,jackals,foxes,wolves andmarmots.
According to Balti folklore,Mughal princess Gul Khatoon (known in Baltistan as Mindoq Gyalmo—Flower Queen) brought musicians and artisans with her into the region and they propagated Mughal music and art under her patronage.[50] Musical instruments such as thesurnai,karnai,dhol andchang were introduced into Baltistan.
Classical and other dances are classified as sword dances,broqchhos andYakkha andghazal dances.[51]Chhogho Prasul commemorates a victory by theMaqponrajas. As a mark of respect, the musician who plays the drum (dang) plays for a long time. A Maqpon princess would occasionally dance to this tune.Gasho-Pa, also known asGhbus-La-Khorba, is a sword dance associated with the Gasho Dynasty of Purik (Kargil).Sneopa, the marriage-procession dance bypachones (twelvewazirs who accompany the bride), is performed at the marriage of araja.
Balti architecture has Tibetan and Mughul[52] influences, and its monastic architecture reflects the Buddhist imprint left on the region. Buddhist-stylewall paintings can be seen in forts and Noorbakhshikhanqahs, includingChaqchan Mosque inKhaplu,Amburik Mosque in Shigar, Khanqah e Muallah Shigar,Khaplu Fort,Shigar Fort andSkardu Fort.
Polo is popular in Baltistan, and indigenous to the Karakoram region, having been played there since at least the 15th–16th century.[53] The Maqpon rulerAli Sher Khan Anchan introduced the game to other valleys during his conquests beyond Gilgit and Chitral.[54] The English wordpolo derives from theBalti wordpolo, meaning "the ball used in the game of polo".[55] The game of polo itself is calledHrthapolo means horse riding game in Balti.[56]
ThePakistan Broadcasting Corporation[57] has radio and television stations inKhaplu that broadcast local programs, and there are a handful of private news outlets. TheDaily K2[58] is anUrdu newspaper published inSkardu servingGilgit-Baltistan for long time, and it is the pioneer of print media in Gilgit Baltisatn.Bad-e-Shimal claims the largest daily circulation inGilgit and Baltistan.[59]Nawa-e-Sufia is a monthly magazine covering Baltistan's Nurbakshi sect.[60]5cntv urdu news web magazine covering Baltistan's.[61]
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