| Ayam | |
 Modernizedayam | |
| Korean name | |
|---|---|
| Hangul | 아얌; 액엄 |
| Hanja | (none); 額掩 |
| Revised Romanization | ayam; aegeom |
| McCune–Reischauer | ayam; aegŏm |
Anayam (아얌) is aKorean traditional wintercap mostly worn by women in theJoseon period (1392 – 1910) for protection against the cold.[1] It is also calledaegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" inKorean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class callediseo (이서,吏胥) woreayam in the early Joseon period, so it was a unisex cap. However, it is not clear whether the shape at that time was identical to that of the later period. During the late Joseon period, anayam was usually worn by female commoners. Especially in the western part of Korea,kisaeng (female Korean entertainers) commonly wore anayam, and they were also worn as a simple formalheadgear.[2]
Theayam generally consists ofmobu (모부, a crown) anddeurim (드림) which are shaped likedaenggi (댕기) or a big ribbon. The upper 4–5 cm part of themobu is finelyquilted, the vertical line of the front shorter than the back's. On the bottom edge, the front part is more curved than the back. In addition, the vertical lines of the front and back are a little curvy, so that, when wearing anayam, it fits well to one's head. Black or purple silk is used for the upper quilted part of the outer fabric, while black or dark brown fur is used for the rest of themobu. The fabric for the inner is red cottonflannel.[2]
Thetassel attached to the upper center of both front and back is mostly red in color and the strings connected from both sides are all flatbraids. However, someayam worn bykisaeng were very luxuriously adorned with big and sumptuous jewels, such asjade,amber, ororpiment, on the tassels of both sides.[2]
There are two types ofdeurim hung on the back ofayam. One is made with two sheets of fabric in a 9–10 cm width which are linked together lightly. The other is made of one sheet of fabric in an 18–20 cm width, with the center folded. On the center line of thedeurim are decorations of jade, amber, and others gems, and the length is usually over 100 cm. Theayam worn for spring and autumn has the same shape as the one for winter, but it is made of a lighter silk.[2]
The Korean expression "ayang tteolda (아양떨다)" which means to flatter or to performaegyo to look cute around the people, originated from the act of shaking the "ayam".[3]