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Art Gilkey

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American geologist and mountain climber
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Arthur Karr Gilkey
Born(1926-09-25)September 25, 1926
DiedAugust 10, 1953(1953-08-10) (aged 26)

Arthur Karr Gilkey (September 25, 1926 – August 10, 1953) was an American geologist and mountaineer.

He was born in Boulder, Colorado, to Herbert J. Gilkey (1890–1976) and Mildred (Talbot) Gilkey, and was raised inAmes, Iowa, where his father was a professor of Engineering. He earned aBachelor's of Science degree fromIowa State University in 1949 after a tour of duty in the Navy duringWorld War II,[1] and began graduate study in Geology atColumbia University, where he earned a Master of Science degree in 1950. Prior to his death, Gilkey had completed his doctoral dissertation, “Fracture Pattern of theZuni Uplift,” and was posthumously awarded a Ph.D.[2] His thesis advisor wasWalter H. Bucher.[3] An article Gilkey wrote withArie Poldervaart was published posthumously.[4]

Gilkey explored Alaska in 1950 and 1952. He died during the1953 American expedition to summitK2. At Camp III, he came down withthrombophlebitis (blood clots in the leg) or possiblydeep venous thrombosis, followed bypulmonary embolism. His fellow expedition members, includingCharles Houston andPete Schoening, immediately turned back in an attempt to save his life. During the descent, Gilkey, wrapped in a sleeping bag, suddenly disappeared. It is believed he was swept away by anavalanche, but others conjecture that he released himself from the ropes to spare his teammates from further risk on his behalf.[5] Gilkey's remains were discovered in 1993, melting out of the glacier at the base of the south face of K2.[6]

See also

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Memorials

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  • TheGilkey Memorial to deceased climbers, situated below K2, was originally built for, and named after, Art Gilkey.
  • The American Alpine Club administers the Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Award, providing grants in aid of scientific research in alpine areas.

References

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  1. ^"Arthur Karr Gilkey".uihistories.library.illinois.edu. Retrieved2024-06-28.
  2. ^"AAC web page". Retrieved7 October 2015.
  3. ^Gilkey, Arthur K. (1953).Fracture pattern of the Zuni uplift. RME-3050 U.S. Atomic Energy Commission. Technical Information Service.
  4. ^Gilkey, Arthur K.; Poldervaart, Arie (February 1954)."On clouded plagioclase".American Mineralogist.39 (1–2):75–91.
  5. ^Rowell, Galen (1977).In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp. 226–234.ISBN 0-87156-184-0.
  6. ^"American Alpine Journal, Climbs and Expeditions, 1993, p.247".


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