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Annapurna

Coordinates:28°35′46″N83°49′13″E / 28.59611°N 83.82028°E /28.59611; 83.82028
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected fromAnnapurna I)
Eight-thousander and 10th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal
This article is about the individual mountain. For the mountain range, seeAnnapurna (mountain range). For other uses, seeAnnapurna (disambiguation). For the Hindu goddess, seeAnnapurna (goddess).

Annapurna
South face of Annapurna I (Main)
Highest point
Elevation8,091 m (26,545 ft)
Ranked 10th
Prominence2,984 m (9,790 ft)[1][2]
Ranked 94th
Parent peakCho Oyu
ListingEight-thousander
Ultra
Coordinates28°35′46″N83°49′13″E / 28.59611°N 83.82028°E /28.59611; 83.82028
Geography
Annapurna is located in Nepal
Annapurna
Annapurna
Nepal
The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height inHimalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world).[3] The map may help give context to Annapurna with more detail and zooming on click through.

Legend:
1:Mount Everest2:Kangchenjunga3:Lhotse4:Yalung Kang, Kanchenjunga West5:Makalu6:Kangchenjunga South7:Kangchenjunga Central8:Cho Oyu9:Dhaulagiri10:Manaslu (Kutang)11:Nanga Parbat (Diamer)12:Annapurna13:Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)14:Manaslu East15:Annapurna East Peak16:Gyachung Kang17:Annapurna II18:Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)19:Kangbachen20:Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)21:Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)22:Nuptse (Nubtse)23:Nanda Devi24:Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)25:Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa)26:Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)27:Kamet28:Dhaulagiri II29:Ngojumba Kang II30:Dhaulagiri III31:Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)32:Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)33:Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)34:Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)35:Dhaulagiri IV36:Annapurna Fang37:Silver Crag38:Kangbachen Southwest39:Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum)40:Annapurna III41:Himalchuli West42:Annapurna IV43:Kula Kangri44:Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri)45:Ngadi Chuli South

 
Nepal
LocationGandaki Province,Nepal
Parent rangeAnnapurna
Climbing
First ascent3 June 1950
Maurice Herzog andLouis Lachenal
(First winter ascent 3 February 1987Jerzy Kukuczka andArtur Hajzer)[4]
Easiest routenorthwest face

Annapurna (/ˌænəˈpʊərnəˌ-ˈpɜːr-/;[5][6]Nepali:अन्नपूर्ण) is amountain situated in theAnnapurna mountain range ofGandaki Province, north-centralNepal. It is the10th highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its ascent.

Maurice Herzog led aFrench expedition to its summit through the north face in 1950, making it the firsteight-thousander to be successfully climbed.[7] The entire massif and surrounding area are protected within the 7,629-square-kilometre (2,946 sq mi)Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-classtreks, includingAnnapurna Sanctuary andAnnapurna Circuit.

For decades, Annapurna I held the highest fatality-to-summit rate of all principal eight-thousander summits; it has, however, seen great climbing successes in recent years, with the fatality rate falling from 32% to under 20% from 2012 to 2022. This figure places it just under the most recent fatality rate estimates forK2, at about 24%. The mountain still poses grave threats to climbers through avalanche danger, unpredictable weather and the extremely steep and committing nature of its climbing routes, in particular its 3,000-metre (9,800 ft) south face, renowned as one of the most difficult climbs in the world.[8] It is also a dangerous peak for trekkers, as in the case ofa 2014 snowstorm near it andDhaulagiri which claimed at least 43 lives. As of 2022, 365 people had reached the summit of Annapurna I, while 72 had died in the attempt.

Etymology

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The mountain is named afterAnnapurna, the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment, who is said to reside there. The name Annapurna is derived from theSanskrit-language wordspurna ("filled") andanna ("food"), and can be translated as "everlasting food".[9] Many streams descending from the slopes of the Annapurna Massif provide water for the agricultural fields and pastures located at lower elevations.[10]

Climbing expeditions

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The Annapurna massif, view from aircraft
The south face of Annapurna I
See also:1950 French Annapurna expedition and1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition

Annapurna I was the first 8,000-metre (26,200 ft) peak to be climbed.[11]Maurice Herzog andLouis Lachenal, of theFrench Annapurna expedition led by Herzog (includingLionel Terray,Gaston Rébuffat,Marcel Ichac,Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950.[12] Ichac made a documentary of the expedition, calledVictoire sur l'Annapurna. Its summit was thehighest summit attained till that time, but not the highest climb; higher non-summit points – at least 8,500 metres (27,900 ft) – had already been attained onMount Everest in the 1920s.

Thesouth face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 byDon Whillans andDougal Haston also without using supplementary oxygen, members of aBritish expedition led byChris Bonington that includedIan Clough, who was killed by a fallingserac during the descent. They were, however, beaten to the second ascent of Annapurna by a matter of days by aBritish Army expedition led by ColonelHenry Day.

In 1978, theAmerican Women's Himalayan Expedition, a team led byArlene Blum, became the firstUnited States team to climb Annapurna I. The first summit team, composed ofVera Komarkova andIrene Miller, andSherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing, reached the top at 3:30 pm on 15 October 1978. The second summit team,Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz andVera Watson, died during this climb.[13]

In 1981 Polish expedition Zakopane Alpine Club set a new route on Annapurna I Central (8051 m).Maciej Berbeka and Bogusław Probulski reached the summit on 23 May 1981. The route called Zakopiańczyków Way was recognized as the best achievement of the Himalayan season in 1981.

On 3 February 1987,PolishclimbersJerzy Kukuczka andArtur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.[14]

The first solo ascent of the south face was made in October 2007 by Slovenian climberTomaž Humar;[15][16][17][18] he climbed to the Roc Noir and then to Annapurna East (8,047m).[19]

On 8 and 9 October 2013 Swiss climberUeli Steck soloed the Lafaille route[19] on the main and highest part of the face;[20] this was his third attempt on the route and has been called "one of the most impressive Himalayan climbs in history",[21] with Steck taking 28 hours to make the trip from Base Camp to summit and back again.[22] There are significant doubts about this claim.[23]

Flights

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Several airlines offer sightseeing flights over Annapurna.[24]

Fatality rate

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Along with K2 andNanga Parbat, Annapurna I has consistently ranked as one of the most dangerous of the principal eight-thousander summits. Climbers killed on the peak include BritonsIan Clough in 1970 andAlex MacIntyre in 1982, Frenchman Pierre Béghin in 1992, KazakhAnatoli Boukreev in 1997, SpaniardIñaki Ochoa in 2008,[25] KoreanPark Young-seok in 2011[26] and the FinnSamuli Mansikka in 2015.[27]

See also

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References

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  1. ^"Annapurna".Peakbagger.com. Retrieved12 January 2009.
  2. ^"Nepal/Sikkim/Bhutan Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org.Archived from the original on 25 December 2008. Retrieved12 January 2009.
  3. ^"Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal". Retrieved22 October 2024.
  4. ^Hawley, Elizabeth (1987)."Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Winter Ascent: Kukuczka's 13th 8000er, 1987".American Alpine Journal.#29 (61): 251.ISBN 978-0930410292.ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved25 May 2024.
  5. ^"Annapurna".Dictionary.com Unabridged (Online). n.d. Retrieved12 June 2019.
  6. ^"Annapurna".Lexico UK English Dictionary.Oxford University Press. Archived fromthe original on 15 April 2021.
  7. ^"The Eight-Thousanders". 17 December 2013.
  8. ^"Complete ascent — fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers". 8000ers.com. 19 June 2008. Retrieved30 May 2013.
  9. ^Julie Loar (2011).Goddesses for Every Day: Exploring the Wisdom and Power of the Divine Feminine Around the World. New World Library. pp. 287–.ISBN 978-1-57731-950-4.
  10. ^Edith Rogovin Frankel (15 September 2003).Walking in the Mountains: A Woman's Guide. Derrydale Press. pp. 9–.ISBN 978-1-4617-0829-2.
  11. ^"Stairway to heaven".The Economist. 29 May 2013. Retrieved30 May 2013.
  12. ^Herzog, 1953, p. 257.
  13. ^Blum, 1980.
  14. ^"8000m Peak". summitpost.org.Archived from the original on 19 May 2007. Retrieved26 June 2011.
  15. ^"New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna". russianclimb.com.Archived from the original on 17 June 2011. Retrieved26 June 2011.
  16. ^"Climbing Annapurna: Tomaz Humar". Outside. 29 January 2008.Archived from the original on 29 April 2010. Retrieved26 June 2011.
  17. ^"Tomaz Humar klettert solo durch die Annapurna Südwand" (in German). Bergsteigen.at. Archived fromthe original on 7 November 2012. Retrieved30 May 2013.
  18. ^Von: Text: adidas eyewear (26 November 2007)."Tomaz Humar glückt Erstbegehung am Annapurna im Alpinstil - Climbing.de - Alle Infos für Bergsteiger und Kletterer" (in German). Climbing.de. Retrieved30 May 2013.
  19. ^ab"Annapurna South Face Routes", russianclimb.com, accessed 13 October 2013.
  20. ^"Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo", planetmountain.com, accessed 14 October 2013.
  21. ^"Steck Solos Annapurna South Face", ukclimbing.com, accessed 13 October 2013.
  22. ^"Annapurna South Face Solo - 28 Hours", ukclimbing.com, accessed 13 October 2013.
  23. ^"I think Ueli Steck lied", english.elpais.com, accessed 21 January 2025.
  24. ^"Annapurna flying- Nepali Times".archive.nepalitimes.com. Retrieved18 July 2023.
  25. ^"It's over: Iñaki Ochoa lost on Annapurna". mounteverest.net. 23 May 2008. Archived fromthe original on 15 October 2009. Retrieved26 June 2011.
  26. ^Woo, Jaeyeon (31 October 2011)."With Park Gone, Korea Loses Its Trailblazer".Korea Real Time (blog). The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved17 November 2011.
  27. ^"Farewell Samuli Mansikka, the fearless Finn". 2 April 2015.

Bibliography

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Further reading

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  • Herzog, Maurice (1952).Annapurna. Jonathan Cape.
  • Neate, Jill (11 February 1989).High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks. Mountaineers Books.ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
  • Ohmori, Koichiro (1998).Over the Himalaya. Cloudcap Press.ISBN 0-938567-37-3.
  • Terray, Lionel (1963).Conquistadors of the Useless. Victor Gollancz Ltd.ISBN 0-89886-778-9. Chapter 7.

External links

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Look upannapurna in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
Wikimedia Commons has media related toAnnapurna.
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