Alpine climbing (German:Alpinklettern) is a type ofmountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advancedclimbing skills, includingrock climbing,ice climbing, and/ormixed climbing, to summit typically largeroutes (e.g.multi-pitch orbig wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in theEuropean Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived termalpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. nosherpas or reserve teams).
Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially incouloirs), seracs and crevasses,violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration,edema,frostbite), complex navigation and route finding, longabseils, and the difficulty of rescue and/or retreat due to the remote setting. Due to the scale of the routes, alpine climbers need to be able to move together for speed (e.g.simul climbing or asrope teams), which is another source of specific risk.
Alpine climbing involves small unsupported teams tackling large multi-pitch (orbig wall) routes that can involve various combinations ofrock climbing,ice climbing, andmixed climbing, in alpine-type mountain environments. Alpine routes are often long and require a full day of climbing or even several days. Because of the length of the routes, and the danger of alpine environments (e.g. rockfall, avalanche, altitude, weather, etc.), alpine climbers (or "alpinists") typically try routes that are well within their technical rock, ice, or mixed climbing capabilities.[2][3]
While parts of an alpine route will involve alead climber tackling difficult rock, ice, or mixed sections while beingbelayed by a stationarysecond climber below, parts will involve both climbers moving simultaneously together as arope team, particularly on large snow slopes or easier rock sections.[4] Simultaneous climbing (orsimul climbing) is riskier but is necessary to ensure that the climbers can move quickly through what is often a very dangerous and exposed environment (e.g. rockfall on open ice fields), and complete the routes in a reasonable time.[2][4][5]
Alpine climbing can involveaid climbing, particularly if high up on a route, aid is needed to make progress and avoid a dangerous retreat.[4] It can also involve multiple and complexabseils, either on the descent or in a retreat from a route. Classic alpine climbing routes often take at least a full day of climbing which necessitates the early "alpine start" (and helps to avoid the afternoon rockfalls), and may force abivouac.[4] It often involves traveling onglaciers andbergschrunds to get to and from the route (and in the dark for "alpine starts").[2][3]
Due to the greater complexity and risks of alpine climbing, alpinists need to be much more familiar with and confident in each team member's abilities and skill level.[4] Alpine climbing involves exercising judgment and decision-making to adapt to the constantly changing alpine weather and route conditions (e.g. changing snow and ice levels), and where good initial progress can quickly turn into a fight for the team's very survival (e.g. as extensively chronicled during the famous1936 Eiger climbing disaster).[2]
Ueli Steck making a rapid 'alpine style' one-day ascent ofNorth Couloir Direct (VI, Al 6+, M8) a major alpine climbing route onLes Drus[6]
The derived term "alpine style" alludes to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small fast-moving teams – or evensolo – who carry all of their own equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams laying downfixed ropes).[7] "Alpine-style" is the opposite ofexpedition style (which is sometimes pejoratively called "siege style"), and is often considered a "purer" form of climbing.[8][9][10]
"Alpine style" also means being "lightly equipped"; this can include no supplementary oxygen, no major tenting or overnight equipment, and limited food and fuel supplies. It also means having no fixed ropes on the route (an important safety feature of expedition-style mountaineering).[8][11][10]
While these attributes enable alpine climbers to move quickly and take advantage of good conditions and "weather windows", it also makes alpine climbing far more dangerous. In situations where the habitually unstable high-altitude weather turns, alpine climbers will not have the provisions to "sit out" the storm, and will not have the fixed ropes in place to retreat safely and quickly; such forced retreats in poor conditions are dangerous.[8][10]
While alpine climbers are "lightly equipped" due to the fact that they must carry all of their equipment while climbing, the range ofclimbing equipment needed can be considerable due to the diverse range of climbing techniques required on major alpine routes, and the harsh conditions encountered.[12]
Rock-climbing equipment: Routes involving rock climbing require the equipment needed fortraditional climbing. Alpine climbers may also hammer inbolts orpitons while climbing the route in order to give additional protection in the manner of asport climbing route (i.e. where traditional climbing protection is not usable). Use ofclimbing helmets is common given the danger of rockfall on alpine-type routes.[13]
Ice climbing equipment: Routes involving ice or snow require the equipment needed forice climbing ormixed climbing. In particular,ice axes,ice screws, andcrampons will be required, as well as some of the broader tools needed for climbing in snow conditions such as avalanche equipment and snow belay systems. Alpine climbers may have to change from heavy ice climbing boots into rock climbing shoes while on the route.
Alpinists face a number of additional risks to the risks of rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing, making it one of the most dangerous forms of climbing.[8] In 2019, Francis Sanzaro writing in theNew York Times said of modern alpinism: "The routes are becoming more technically demanding, in more remote areas, and the method of "light and fast" — minimal gear, no fixed ropes, doing the route in a single push — is now regarded as the best style. These trends, and others, have made the sport of alpine climbing very, very dangerous".[14] In 2021, theNew York Times called the Piolets d'Or, alpine climbing's most important award, "A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner’s Last", due to the number of fatalities of past winners.[15]
Additional risks faced by alpinists to the risks of rock climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing, are:[16][17]
Rockfall. Alpine-type rock faces are in a perpetual state of erosion, which leads to periods of significant rockfall on various routes. The action of these rockfalls can be amplified by thecouloirs that some alpine routes ascend.Climate change has increased this risk even further.[17][18][19]
The deadlyWhite Spider ice field on the north face of theEiger into which avalanches and rockfalls are funneled; alpine climbers move through it as quickly as possible.
Avalanche. Similarly to rockfall, alpinists face the risk of avalanches whose effects are also amplified by the couloirs some alpine routes ascend. In addition to encountering avalanches while on exposed alpine faces, they also encounter this risk when traveling to and from the routes. Leading modern alpinists includingDavid Lama,Jess Roskelley,Hansjörg Auer, andMarc-André Leclerc have been killed in such a fashion.[17]
Abseils. The completion of alpine climbs, or a retreat mid-route, can involve lengthy and complicated abseils for the descent.[17] Descending major routes can require +20 abseils, carried out by tired climbers and often in poor conditions. A failure of any of these abseils can be fatal. The famous 1978 retreat fromLatok I required 85 abseils; in 1977,Doug Scott famously broke both legs abseiling downOgre I, but survived.[8]
Altitude. Alpine climbing is done at higher altitudes, and modern alpine climbing in the Himalayas and Patagonia is done at very high altitudes, including thedeath zone. As alpinists need to carry their equipment, supplementary oxygen is usually not employed. High altitude not only brings the specific risks ofAMS andedema but also increases the effects of dehydration and fatigue, and thus poor decision making.[17]
Weather. Alpinists attempt bold and exposed routes – often on the dark north faces of mountains – at high altitudes where the weather is unstable. They don't carry the equipment to "wait out" storms. Retreats by alpinists in violent storms can be more dangerous than the route itself.[17] One of the most famous examples is the1936 Eiger climbing disaster, with the infamous image of alpinistToni Kurz hanging from his rope.
Glaciers andcornices. Alpinists usually need to travel over glaciers in getting to and from their routes, and can also encounter hanging glaciers on routes. Glaciers bring the risks ofcrevasses (includingbergschrunds at the base of routes), and of large fallingseracs, which is amplified by the need to travel on glaciers in the dark (an "Alpine start") to complete routes before the sun increases the risks of rockfall and avalanche. Many alpinists were killed falling through cornices such asHermann Buhl.[17]
Navigation. Alpine routes are typically long and can follow complex paths through large mountain ridges and faces. A mistake in navigation or route finding, which can be exacerbated by poor weather, the effects of altitude, or the need to travel in the dark, can lead the climbers into situations that are fatal. It is not uncommon for alpinists to "go missing" on large routes; notable examples arePeter Boardman andJoe Tasker.[17]
Remoteness. Alpine climbs are in remote settings. Even in the European Alps, alpine climbers that get into difficulty can wait long periods before rescue is available or possible. Alpine climbers in the Himalayas and in Patagonia may take significantly longer periods to rescue, and for advanced and dangerous routes, rescue may simply not be possible without endangering the rescuers.[17]
Cosmiques Ridge (AD, French 4c UIAA V, 300-metre),Aiguille du Midi.Chéré Couloir (D+, Ice WI4, Mix M3, 400-metre),Triangle du Tacul.
Due to the complexity of routes in alpine climbing, the "overall" grade denotes the general level of seriousness of the route to which is added additional specific grade(s) for any rock climbing (usually theFrench,American, orUIAA grades forfree climbing, and theA-grade foraid climbing), ice climbing (theWI-grade), and mixed climbing (theM-grade) involved. In addition, alpine grades will quote the inclination of the main snow slopes encountered (e.g. 50–60 degrees), as these are often not graded ice climbs, but contribute significantly to the overall risk.[20]
The most widely used "overall" grades are the acronyms of theUIAA Scale of Overall Difficulty, also known as theInternational French Adjectival System (IFAS).[21] The UIAA warns against aligning their acronyms with equivalent rock and ice climbing grades, as the objective dangers can vary dramatically on routes with similar rock and ice climbing grades. For example, the famous 1,800-metreEiger North Face 1938 Heckmair Route is graded ED2 even though the rock climbing is graded UIAA V− and the ice climbing is only at 60 degrees (i.e. both typically a D grade), due to the exceptional length and danger of the route.[21] In spite of this, attempts have been made to ascribe a "typical" range of rock and ice climbing grades for to each acronym:[20][22][23]
F:facile (easy). Beginner climbing, possibly a glacial approach, with snow at an easy angle; little real rock or ice climbing, some scrambling.[20][23]
PD:peu difficile (slightly difficult). Novice alpine climbing. PD-/PD/PD+ routes have snow slopes of up to 45 degrees, glaciers but no real ice climbing, may involve easy rock climbing at grades3a III to3c IV.[20][23]
AD:assez difficile (fairly difficult). Intermediate alpine climbing with long pitches of fully roped climbing. AD-/AD/AD+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 45–65 degrees, with ice climbing at grade WI3, and rock climbing at grades4a (5.4) IV+ to4c (5.6) V.[20][23]
D:difficile (difficult). Hard and serious routes even for experienced climbers, can be long or short. D-/D/D+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 50–70 degrees, with ice climbing at grade WI4, and rock climbing at grades5a (5.7) V+ to5c (5.9) VI.[20][23]
TD:très difficile (very difficult). These routes are serious undertakings with high levels of objective danger. TD-/TD/TD+ routes have sustained snow and ice at an angle of 65–80 degrees, with ice climbing at grades WI5 to WI6, and rock climbing at grades6a (5.10a) VI+ to6c (5.11a/b) VII+.[20][23]
ED1/2/3/4... :extrêmement difficile (extremely difficult). Extremely hard, exceptional objective danger, vertical ice slopes with ice climbing at grades above WI6, and rock climbing at grades above6c (5.11a/b) VII+; retreats may be extremely difficult in poor weather.[20][23]
Note: A "+" (pronouncedSup forsupérieur) or a "−" (pronouncedInf forinférieur) is placed after the acronym to indicate if a climb is at the lower or upper end of that grade (e.g., a climb slightly harder than "PD+" might be "AD−").[21] The term ABO forabominable is explicitly not recognized by the UIAA.[21]
1938. A team led byAnderl Heckmair completed the greatest prize in European alpine climbing, thefirst ascent of the north face of theEiger. Even today, the1938 Route (as it is known), carries a grade of ED2, due to its extreme danger beyond its technical grades of V A0 60-degree slopes.
1955.Walter Bonatti completed a 5-daysolo of a new route on the southwest face of thePetit Dru, which became known as theBonatti Pillar, one of the hardest feats of alpine climbing at the time; much of the pillar fell off in 2005 and the route no longer exists.[25]
1977–1978.Ivano Ghirardini became the first alpinist to climb the "Trilogy" in winter, and solo;Catherine Destivelle was the first female to complete the solo winter Trilogy in 1992–1994.[26]
High Mountains in Asia (Himalayas, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, Pamir)
1972.Wojciech Kurtyka to ascents Akher Chagh (7017 m) and Koh-e Tez (7015 m) in theHindu Kush and starts the era of alpine style in the high mountains.
1976. After 25 days of climbing,Peter Boardman andJoe Tasker summit the west wall ofChangabang in alpine style; their integration ofbig wall climbing techniques was revolutionary. Boardman's account,The Shining Mountain, became a classic in mountain literature.[27]
1977. A small team led byDoug Scott andChris Bonington made the first ascent ofThe Orge in pure alpine style; the descent turned into a struggle for survival as Scott and Bonnington were severely injured on the abseil; the ascent attracted worldwide interest for its boldness.[8]
1978. After 26 days of climbing, a small team led byJeff Lowe gets to within 500 feet of the summitLatok I via the north ridge in pure alpine style; the route would not be climbed until 2022 but Lowe's bold attempt increased worldwide interest in "pure alpine style" climbing.[8]
1985. Wojciech Kurtyka and Robert Schauer traverse the Shining Wall ofGasherbrum IV. The climb was called the "most remarkable alpine style ascent of the 20th century"
2013.Ueli Stecksoloed in pure alpine style theLafaille Route on the enormous south face ofAnnapurna in just 28-hours, for which he won the 2013Piolet d'Or; the provenance of the climb was initially questioned,[28] but upheld by witnesses.[29]
2021. Sean Villanueva O'Driscollsolos theMoonwalk Traverse, which is theenchainment of the 10 summits of theCerro Chaltén Group, inPatagonia, for which he won the 2022Piolet d'Or award,[30] and was called one of the greatest alpine solos in climbing history.[31]
^"Alpine-style".Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved5 May 2023.Definition of 'alpine style': In Mountaineering, of or in an ascent (esp in high mountains like the Himalayas) in which the climbers carry all their equipment with them in a single ascent from base to summit.
^abcdefghiCosley, Kathy; Houston, Mark (2004). "The Making of an Alpinist".Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher. Mountaineers Books. pp. 15–31.ISBN978-0898867497.
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