CaliphAbd al-Rahman III founded the city in 955.[7] The city grew wealthy during the Islamic era, becoming aworld city throughout the 11th and 12th centuries.[8] It enjoyed an active port that tradedsilk, oil, and raisins.[9] This period was brought to an end with the1147 conquest of the city by a Christian coalition.[10] Control over Almería switched hands over the rest of the middle ages. In the early modern period, with the onset of Barbary piracy, the ethnic cleansing ofmoriscos in theKingdom of Granada, and several natural calamities, urban decay accrued. The 19th-century reactivation of mining activity (lead) in the hinterland fostered commercial activity and demographic growth.[11]
Key road routes include theA-7 connecting Almería to the rest of the Spanish Mediterranean coast and theA-92 connecting the city toGranada and inner Andalusia. Almería is served bya medium-sized airport anda port with a growing specialization in passenger andro-ro transport with the North of Africa (Algeria and Morocco).[12]
Being adjacent to a small desert,[13] Almería has an exceptionally dry climate by European standards.
The name "Almería" comes from the city's former Arabic name,Madīnat al-Mariyya, meaning "city of the watchtower".[14] As the settlement was originally the port or coastal suburb ofPechina, it was initially known asMariyyat al-Bajjāna (Bajjāna being the Arabic name for Pechina).[15]
The origin of Almería is connected to the 9th-century establishment of the so-called Republic of Pechina (Bajjana) some kilometres to the north, which was for a time autonomous from theCordobese central authority: the settlement of current-day Almería initially developed as a humble trading port of Pechina known as Al-Mariyya Bajjana.[16] Pechina and its maritime port experienced divergent fortunes, and while the former progressively depopulated, the latter became the base of theCaliphal navy after 933, during the rule ofAbd-ar-Rahman III.[17] The port suffered a devastatingFatimid naval attack in 955 that exposed the Caliphate's defensive shortcomings.[18] Also in 955, Abd-ar-Rahman III decided to erect thewalls.[19] Asilk industry consisting of hundreds of looms and feeding itself from themulberry trees planted in the region, fostered Almería's economy.[20] Almería also became an importantslave trade hub during the caliphal period.[21]
In the wake of thecollapse of the Caliphate of Córdoba in the early 11th century, Almería detached from Cordobese authority towards 1014 and became ruled as an independenttaifa underSlavic kinglets.[22] It submitted to theTaifa of Valencia in 1038, yet it soon became independent as a new taifa,[23] ruled by the ArabBanu Sumadih until 1091, when it fell to Almoravid control. This allowed the city's economy to insert itself into the trade networks of theAlmoravid empire.[24] Building upon the previous development during the caliphal period, Almería reached a degree of historical relevance unmatched in the rest of its history throughout the 11th and 12th centuries,[25] becoming the third-largest city ofAl-Andalus.[24] Almería importedindigo dye andwool from the Maghreb andlinen from Egypt, while it exportedcopper toFez andTlemcen as well as its highly sought textiles.[21]
Contested by the emirs of Granada and Valencia, Almería experienced many sieges, including one especially fierce siege when Christians, called to theSecond Crusade byPope Eugene III, were also encouraged to counter the Muslim forces on a more familiar coast. On that occasionAlfonso VII, starting on 11 July 1147, at the head of mixed armies of Catalans, Genoese, Pisans and Franks, led a crusade against the rich city, and Almería was captured on 17 October 1147,[26] marking the breakup of the city's period of splendor in the Middle Ages.[27]
Within a decade, in 1157, Almería had passed to the control of MuslimAlmohad rulers.[26] Almería soon passed by the temporary overarching control of rebel Murcian emirIbn Mardanish (1165–1169), hindering the early efforts of recovery in the city,[28] that under the decade of Christian occupation reportedly had been left depopulated and, by and large, quite destroyed.[29] During Almohad rule, the city did not return to its previous splendor, although the port remained trading with theCrown of Aragon and the Italian republics.[30]
Following the rebellion against Almohad rule heralded by the likes of the Banu Hud and the Banu Mardanis, Almería submitted to the authority ofIbn Hud, who had raised theblack banner and pledged nominal allegiance toAbbasid authorities by 1228.[31] After Ibn Hud's assassination in Almería in 1238,[32][30] the bulk of the remaining Muslim-controlled territories in the Iberian Peninsula passed to the control of rival rulerIbn al-Aḥmar (sultan since 1232), who had set the capital of his emirate in Granada by 1238,[32] constituting theEmirate of Granada, to which Almería belonged from then on. While relatively languishing throughout the Nasrid period, Almería still remained a key strategic port of the emirate together withMálaga, as well as a haven for pirates and political dissidents.[33] It sustained intense trading relations with Aragon and the African port ofHonaine.[33] Almería endureda brutal siege by Aragonese forces in 1309 that, while eventually unsuccessful, left the city battered.[33]
The city submitted to the sovereignty of theCatholic Monarchs on 22 December 1489.[34] Relatively isolated and within the range of attacks fromBarbary pirates, the hitherto mercantile city entered modernity by undergoing a process of heavy ruralization that imperiled its very same continued existence as a city.[35]
Historically, there was aJewish community in Almería dating to the 10th century, where members of the community mostly engaged in maritime trade. When theJews were expelled in 1492, many living in Almería fled to North Africa.[36]
The 16th century was for Almería a century of natural and human catastrophes; for there were at least fourearthquakes, of which the one in 1522 was especially violent, devastating the city. The people who had remainedMuslim were expelled from Almería after theWar of Las Alpujarras in 1568 and scattered across the Crown of Castile. Landings and attacks byBarbary pirates were also frequent in the 16th century, and continued until the early 18th century. At that time, huge iron mines were discovered and French and British companies set up business in the area, bringing renewed prosperity and returning Almería to a position of relative importance within Spain.[citation needed]
During theSpanish Civil War the city wasshelled by the German Navy, with news reaching the London and Parisian press about the "criminal bombardment of Almería by German planes".[37] Almería surrendered in 1939, being the last Andalusian main city to fall toFrancoist forces.
In the second half of the 20th century, Almería witnessed spectacular economic growth due to tourism and intensive agriculture, with crops grown year-round in massiveinvernaderos – plastic-covered "greenhouses" – for intensive vegetable production.
After Franco's death and popular approval of the new Spanish Constitution, the people of southern Spain were called on to approve an autonomous status for Andalusia region in a referendum. The referendum were approved with 118,186 votes for and 11,092 votes against in Almería province,[38] which represented 42% of all registered voters.[39]
One of Almería's most famous natural spots is theCabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. This park is of volcanic origin,[42] and is the largest and most ecologically significant marine-terrestrial space in the European WesternMediterranean Sea.[citation needed] The Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park runs through the municipal areas ofNíjar,Almerimar andCarboneras. Its villages, previously dedicated tofishing, have becometourism spots. The beaches of Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park are also an attraction.[43]
Almería has one islet that it administers as a part of its territory in the Alboran Sea,Alboran Island. The island has a small cemetery, a harbor, and a lighthouse, built in the 19th century.
In 2000, a team of geologists found a cave filled with giantgypsum crystals in an abandoned silver mine near Almería. The cavity, which measures 8 by 1.8 by 1.7 metres (26.2 ft × 5.9 ft × 5.6 ft), may be the largestgeode ever found.[44] The entrance of the cave was blocked by five tons of rocks, and was under police protection (to prevent looters from entering). According to geological models, the cave was formed during theMessinian salinity crisis 6 million years ago, when the Mediterranean sea evaporated and left thick layers of salt sediments (evaporites).[citation needed] The site is currently open for tourists under guided tours.[citation needed]
The BWh climate is present in the city of Almería, in nearby areas of Almería province (such as theCabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, theAndarax/Almanzora river valleys), the only region in Europe to have this climate.[48] This arid climatic region spreads along the coastline around Almería toTorrevieja, in the northeast.[45] The nearby Faro del Cabo in theCabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, has the lowest annual precipitation on the European continent (156 millimetres (6.1 in)) in the period 1961-1990 and around 140 millimetres (5.5 in) since 2010.[49][50][51] Almería enjoys about 3,000 hours of sunshine with over 320 sunny days per year on average (6 hours of sunshine in January and 12 in July) so it is one of the sunniest cities in Europe.[citation needed]
Almería is the only city inContinental Europe that has never registered any temperature below freezing in its recorded weather history.[52][53] The coldest temperature recorded was 0.1 °C (32.2 °F) at the airport in January 2005.[54] Before that, the previous record was 0.2 °C (32.4 °F) on 9 February 1935.[55] Settled snow is unknown since 1935, although during the 20th century, light flurries (without settling) occurred on few occasions.[a] The most important settled snowfall event occurred in 1926 and the snow arrived even at the coastline of the city.[58] The last event with settled snowfall happened on 9 February 1935.[59]
During the winter, daily maximum temperatures tend to stay around 17–18 °C (63–64 °F). At night, the minimum temperature is usually around 8–10 °C (46–50 °F). This makes the city of Almería one of the warmest in winter inSpain.[60] The city only receives yearly precipitation of just 200 mm (7.9 in) and 26 days of precipitation annually; so while no month could be described as truly wet, there are strong seasonal differences in terms of precipitation and temperature, with coastal parts of the city (such as theCabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park) receiving a precipitation amount of 156 mm (6.1 in), and an annual temperature of 19.1 °C (66.4 °F), while mountainous areas (such as theTabernas Desert) receive a precipitation amount of 220 mm (8.7 in) per year, and an average temperature of 17.9 °C (64.2 °F), so it would be classified as acold desert climate (BWk) bordering acold semi-arid climate (BSk).[45]
Inland areas of the Almería province are believed to have reached temperatures above 45 °C (113 °F) in summer.[61] Though temperatures above 40 °C (104 °F) are very rare in the city of Almería.
During the summer, the skies are usually sunny and almost no rainfall occurs. The typical daily temperatures are around 30 °C (86 °F) during the day while the minimum temperatures stay around 22 °C (72 °F) during July and August. As is the case for most of coastal Iberia, heatwaves in Almería are much less common than in the interior because of its coastal location; The hottest temperature recorded was 42.0 °C (107.6 °F) in August 2022.[62] The highest minimum temperature ever recorded was 33.2 °C (91.8 °F) on 31 July 2001, which is also the highest ever recorded inpeninsular Spain andIberian Peninsula.[63][64]
Famous natives of Almería includeNicolás Salmerón y Alonso, who in 1873 was the third president of theFirst Spanish Republic, as well as several musicians, including the composer José Padilla Sánchez, whose music was declared of "universal interest" by Unesco in 1989, the popular folk singerManolo Escobar, renowned Flamenco guitar playerJosé Tomás "Tomatito" and Grammy Award winnerDavid Bisbal; the champion motorcyclistAntonio Maeso moved to Almería as a child.
The Irish folk-rock groupThe Pogues paid tribute to Almería in "Fiesta", a song on the band's third album,If I Should Fall from Grace with God.
In 1989, English electronic bandDepeche Mode filmed the video for their song "Personal Jesus" in Almería.
Tourism increased and hotels were all occupied from January to February during the filming of thesixth season of the TV seriesGame of Thrones.[74]
The Alcazaba, a medieval fortress that was begun in the 10th century but destroyed by an earthquake in 1522. It includes a triple line of walls, a majestickeep and large gardens. It commands a city quarter with buildings dressed in pastel colors, of Muslim-age aspect. It is the second largest among the Muslim fortresses ofAndalusia, after theAlhambra.[citation needed]
The Cathedral has a fortress-like appearance due to its towers, merlons and protected paths, created to defend it from Mediterranean pirates. Originally designated as a mosque, it was later converted into a Christian church, before being destroyed in the 1522 earthquake. In the 16th century it was rebuilt in the Renaissance style, whilst keeping some of its defensive features.
Renaissance church of Santiago, built in 1533, with tower and portal decorated with reliefs.
Chanca, a group of houses carved into rocks.
Castle ofSan Cristobal, now in ruins. It is connected to the Alcazaba by a line of walls.
Museum of Almería. Includes findings from Prehistoric, Iberic, Roman, Greek ages and Muslim objects, mostly from the Alcazaba.
Paseo de Coches, a modern seaside promenade with gardens and palms.
Cable Inglés (English Pier), 1904 iron railway pier built to transfer iron ore, copper, and silver produced by British- and French-run mines in Granada from trains to waiting cargo ships.
Intensive agriculture has been the most important economic sector of Almería for the last 50 years.[76] Nowadays, greenhouse production, handling and commercialisation of vegetables, and the supply industry of the sector, represent almost 40% of Almería's GDP. Directly, agricultural production accounts for 18.2% of the provincial GDP. In Andalusia, the average contribution is 6.6% and in Spain it is only 2.9%.[77]
This situation is the result of a great dynamic model, which can continually incorporate new technologies: using soil sanding, plastic covers, drip irrigation systems, hybrid seeds, soil-less cultivation, irrigation programs, new greenhouse structures, and so on. They all allowed to improve production and increase commercialisation calendars, assuring the profitability and quality of the crops and the competitiveness of the markets.[78] Moreover, Almería's economy has an important exporting function:[79] 75% of production was sold abroad in 2018, with a value of 2,400 million euros.[80]
This development is explained by familiar investment, as subsidies have been limited or non-existent. In this sense, the horticultural sector receives the least European aid from the Common Agricultural Policy: 1.9% of total income. This figure is much lower than that received by other sectors such as olive groves (33%) or cereals (53%).[81]
The production of this area is based on fair competition with officially a just remuneration of employees, with similar salaries than the ones in the same sector in Europe: 8% higher than Italy and 11% than Belgium.[82] This avoids the social dumping exerted by non-EU countries, like Morocco, with salaries up to 90% lower than those of Almería. However, there is well-documented widespread exploitation of workers from North Africa who work and live in terrible conditions, earning much lower than the minimum wage.[83]
From a social point of view, Almería and Granada are an example of family-owned and smallholder agriculture, with small farms and little concentration of land.[84] This social nature generates high equity in the level of income and welfare: social cohesion is produced, and inequality is reduced.[85] Concretely, Almería is made up of 12,500 farms with an average of 2.5 hectares and 30% of familiar labour. The high education levels of the farmers are also significant, which demonstrates an innovative and receptive character towards continuing education: 81.2% of farmers have some type of formal academic training.[84]
At the same time, a commercial system based on social economy enterprises has been developed, e.g. as cooperative societies. These companies represent 62% of production and sales.[86] They assure the access to the market in optimal conditions, because they increase its position inside the agri-food supply chain, facilitate financing, technical advice, and incorporation of technology. Moreover, local ties increase environmental sustainability.[87]
By sea, the port of Almería has connections toMelilla,Algeria,Morocco, and tourist cruises in the Mediterranean. It also has a marina with moorings for pleasure boats. Currently the port of Almería is being expanded with new docks and transformed into a container port to take large-scale international shipping and thereby increase its freight traffic. It normally connects with the following destinations:
Jimena Quirós (1899–1983), Spanish scientist, considered the first female oceanographer in the country and the first female staff scientist of the Spanish Institute for Oceanography (IEO)[95]
Mar Abad (born 1972), journalist, writer and businesswoman, born in Almería
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^Cajamar (2018): "Análisis de la campaña hortofrutícola de Almería. Campaña 2016-2017". Almería: Fundación Cajamar.
^Galdeano-Gómez, E.; Aznar-Sánchez, J. A.; Pérez-Mesa, J. C. (2016).Contribuciones económicas, sociales y medioambientales de la agricultura intensiva de Almería. Almería: Cajamar Caja Rural.
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