| Agiorgitiko | |
|---|---|
| Grape (Vitis) | |
 | |
| Color of berry skin | Noir |
| Species | Vitis vinifera |
| Also called | Aghiorghitiko, Mavro Nemeas, St. George,and other synonyms |
| Origin | Nemea |
| Notable regions | Greece |
| VIVC number | 102 |
Agiorgitiko (Greek:Αγιωργίτικο; also known as Aghiorghitiko) is a redGreek winegrape variety that, as of 2012, was the most widely planted red grape variety in Greece, ahead ofXynomavro. The grape has traditionally been grown in theNemea region of thePeloponnese but can be found throughout the country includingAttikí (Attica) andMakedonía (Macedonia).[1]
One of the more commercially importantindigenous Greek varieties, it can exhibit a wide range of characteristics, from soft to verytannic, depending on factors in the growing andwinemaking processes.[2] The grape is typically made as avarietal, though it is notably blended withCabernet Sauvignon in the area aroundMetsovo to make thetable wine traditionally calledkatoi. In the region of Nemea it is often made intorosés ofoak-aged red wines. The wines are known for their high level of fruitiness but tend to lack some acidity andbody.[3]
The red wine produced from the grape is characteristically spicy with notes ofplum. It has lowacidity but goodfruitiness andcoloring.[4]
Agiorgitiko is generally planted in dry, infertile soil to encourage the production of fewer but more concentrated grapes, ripening after mid-September.[2]
Ampelographers believe that Agiorgitiko is indigenous to Greece, likely theArgolis andCorinthia regions of Peloponnese, but whileapocryphal tales exist of the grape beingcultivated in Ancient Greece, there is no historical or genetic evidence to support those tales.[1] In Nemea, the wine made from Agiorgitiko isnicknamed the "Blood ofHercules"[5][6] because of the legend that after the Greek hero slayed theNemean lion, it was the local Nemean wine made from Agiorgitiko that he consumed.[7] (Some versions of the story has Hercules consuming the wine before slaying the lion.)[8] Another legend states that the wine was a palace favorite of kingAgamemnon who led the Greek forces during theTrojan War.[9]
The nameAgiorgitiko means literally "St. George's grape" which could be a reference to the chapel ofSaint George in Nemea or toSaint George's Day which is celebrated in November aroundharvest time in someEastern Orthodox Churches. However, in many of the Greek areas where Agiorgitiko is grown, Saint George's Day is celebrated in April or May which cast doubt on the theory that the grape's name is affiliated with thefeast day. Another theory is that the grape is named after one ofthe many Greek towns named after the Christian saint.[1]
The main land owners in Nemea was the church and the monks from St George monastery of Feneos would tend to the vineyards and harvest the grapes to make wine at the monastery for communion. This is another theory of the naming of the St George wine is after the St George monastery of Feneos.
Agiorgitiko tends to produce small clusters of small, thick-skinned berries. The vine ishighly disease prone withMaster of WineJancis Robinson noting that "virtually all Agiorgitiko vines planted in Greece are virused." Depending on the virus, and age of the vine, this can lead to issues withripeness andyields which can affect the resulting quality of the wine.[1]
The grape is a latebudding and ripening variety that is prone to produce high yields if not kept in check by winterpruning orgreen harvesting. In addition to its susceptibility to numerous grapevine viruses, Agiorgitiko is also very sensitive to fungal infection frombotrytis bunch rot,downy andpowdery mildew. The vine also responds adversely towater stress which may require someirrigation in regions where the practice is permitted. In order to limit yields, Agiorgitiko is often densely planted in poorvineyard soils but growers need to be mindful of the variety's sensitivity topotassium deficiency.[1]
Wine expertTom Stevenson notes that while Agiorgitiko vines can withstand heat well, the grape tends to produce better in higher altitude vineyards that are slightly cooler but still sufficiently warm to ensure that the grape fully ripens. The altitude of the vineyard, in particular, seems to have an effect on how much of a "spicy note" comes out in the flavor of the resulting wines.[10]
For most of the 21st century, growers have been working with Greek wine authorities to produce new virus-free clones of Agiorgitiko that have the potential to resist most grape disease, including botrytis bunch rot, and produce small berries with thicker skins that could ripen to higher sugar levels with most consistent yields. In 2012, several of these new clones were released to Greek wine growers who have slowly begun replanting their Agiorgitiko vineyards.[1]
In 2012, Agiorgitiko was the most widely planted red grape variety in Greece with 5,202 hectares (12,850 acres) in Attica, 3,204 hectares (7,920 acres) in Peloponnese and additional plantings in Macedonia andEpirus. The grape is most widely associated with thedry and sweet red wines of Nemea in northeastern Peloponnese. Here the grape is only variety permitted in theOeni Onomasias Proelefseos Anoteras Poiotitas (OPAP) (a designated wine region similar to the FrenchAppellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system).[11] In Nemea, the grape is only used for red wine production with its use in makingrosé styles of wine prohibited. Around the town ofMetsovo in Epirus, the grape is often blended withCabernet Sauvignon.[1]
According to Master of Wine Jancis Robinson, some of the "most serious examples" of Agiorgitiko come from the higher altitude vineyards (up to 900 metres (3,000 ft)) of theAsprokampos plateau around Nemea and in the hills (between 500 metres (1,600 ft) to 600 metres (2,000 ft)) aroundKoutsi inCorinthia.[1]
Agiorgitiko is a very versatile grape variety that can be made in a wide range of styles from light rosés to soft, fruity reds made bycarbonic maceration in a style similar to theFrench wines ofBeaujolais, to very tannic wines with spicy, red fruitaromas and thepotential to age. At its most extreme, Agiorgitiko wines have the potential to be very low in acidity, highalcohol and high inphenolics with both issues requiring the winemaker to make decisions on how to handle these components in order to make a balanced wine.[1]
The small berries and thick skins of the grape contribute to high phenolic levels of Agiorgitiko which leads the wine needing very littlemaceration time in order to extract the deep, dark color associated with the grape. It also contribute to the tannin levels and the grape's ability to handle the effects ofoak aging in the barrel.[1]
According to wine expertKaren MacNeil, some examples of Agiorgitiko can be lush and "almostPort-like" with spicy, peppery flavors.[9]Oz Clarke notes that the quality of Nemean wine made from Agiorgitiko is highly dependent on the individual skill of the winemaker and that "Only an example whose burly, rugged power has not been diminished byoxidation and lazy winemaking will age properly".[7] Tom Stevenson notes that some examples can "be spoiled by dried-out or dead fruit" that is harvested too late, with too little acidity, at excessively ripe levels.[10]
According to theWine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), the best examples of Agiorgitiko tend to have moderate to low acidity, with a deep, ruby color, red fruit aromas and a sweet spicy note. These examples tend to come from vineyards planted in the middle range of the hillside slopes around Nemea with grapes harvested near the top of the 900 metres (3,000 ft) hills being excessively acidic while those harvested from the very warm valley floor often being too "jammy". The variance in quality of Agiorgitiko from the different vineyards around Nemea have led some Greek wine producers to investigate developing acruclassification system.[11]
Unlike theXinomavro-based wines of fellow OPAP regionNaousa, the wine experts at WSET note that the Agiorgitiko-based wines of Nemea tend to have a more "international style" which may enhance the potential of Greek wines on the international market.[11]
Over the years, Agiorgitiko has been known under various synonyms including: Aghiorghitico, Aigeorgitiko, Mavro (Black or Dark), Mavro Nemeas (in Nemea), Mavronemeas, Mavrostaphylo Mavraki, Mavroudi Nemeas, Nemeas Mavro, Nemeas Mavroudi and Saint George.[12]
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