Aestheticism (also known as theaesthetic movement) was anart movement in the late 19th century that valued theappearance ofliterature,music, fonts and thearts over their functions.[1][2] According to Aestheticism, art should be produced to be beautiful, rather than to teach alesson, create aparallel, or perform anotherdidactic purpose, a sentiment best illustrated by the slogan "art for art's sake." Aestheticism flourished in the 1870s and 1880s, gaining prominence and the support of notable writers such asWalter Pater andOscar Wilde.
Aestheticism challenged the values of mainstreamVictorian culture, as many Victorians believed that literature and art fulfilled important ethical roles.[3] Writing inThe Guardian, Fiona McCarthy states that "the aesthetic movement stood in stark and sometimes shocking contrast to the crassmaterialism ofBritain in the 19th century."[4]
Aestheticism was named by the critic Walter Hamilton inThe Aesthetic Movement in England in 1882.[5] By the 1890s,decadence, a term with origins in common with aestheticism, was in use acrossEurope.[3]
Aestheticism has its roots inGerman Romanticism. Though the term "aesthetic" derives from Greek,Alexander Gottlieb Baumgarten'sAesthetica (1750) made important use of it in German beforeImmanuel Kant incorporated it into his philosophy in theCritique of Judgment (1790). Kant, in turn, influencedFriedrich Schiller'sAesthetic Letters (1794) and his concept of art asSpiel (Play): "Man is never so serious as when he plays; man is wholly man only when he plays". In theLetters, Schiller proclaimed salvation through art:
Man has lost his dignity, but Art has saved it, and preserved it for him in expressive marbles. Truth still lives in fiction, and from the copy the original will be restored.
These ideas were imported to the English-speaking world largely through the efforts ofThomas Carlyle, whoseLife of Friedrich Schiller (1825),Critical and Miscellaneous Essays andSartor Resartus (1833–1834) introduced and advocated aestheticism while also, if not marking the earliest use of the word "aesthetic" in the English language, certainly popularising it.Ruth apRoberts declared him the "apostle of aesthetics in England, 1825–1827", in recognition of his pioneering influence on the subsequent development of the aesthetic movement.[6]
The British decadent writers were much influenced by theOxford professorWalter Pater and his essays published during 1867–1868, in which he stated that one had to live life intensely, and seek beauty. His textStudies in the History of the Renaissance (1873) was very popular among art-oriented young men of the late 19th century. Writers of theDecadent movement used the slogan "Art for Art's Sake" (L'art pour l'art), the origin of which is debated. Some claim that it was created by the philosopherVictor Cousin, althoughAngela Leighton notes that it was used byBenjamin Constant as early as 1804 in the workOn Form: Poetry, Aestheticism and the Legacy of a Word (2007).[7] It is generally accepted to have been popularised byThéophile Gautier inFrance, who used the phrase to suggest that art andmorality were separate.
The artists and writers of Aesthetic style tended to profess that the Arts should provide refined sensuous pleasure, rather than convey moral or sentimental messages. As a consequence, they did not acceptJohn Ruskin,Matthew Arnold, andGeorge MacDonald's conception of art as something moral or useful, "Art for truth's sake".[8] Instead, they believed that Art did not have anydidactic purpose; it only needed to be beautiful. The Aesthetes developed a cult of beauty, which they considered the basic factor of art. Life should copy Art, they asserted. They considered nature as crude and lacking in design when compared to art. The main characteristics of the style were: suggestion rather than statement, sensuality, great use of symbols, andsynaesthetic/Ideasthetic effects—that is, correspondence between words, colours and music. Music was used to establish mood.[citation needed]
Predecessors of the Aesthetes includedJohn Keats andPercy Bysshe Shelley, and some of thePre-Raphaelites who themselves were a legacy of the Romantic spirit. There are a few significant continuities between the Pre-Raphaelite philosophy and that of the Aesthetes: Dedication to the idea of 'Art for Art's Sake'; admiration of, and constant striving for, beauty; escapism through visual and literary arts; craftsmanship that is both careful and self-conscious; mutual interest in merging the arts of various media. This final idea is promoted in the poemL'Art byThéophile Gautier, who compared the poet to the sculptor and painter.[9]Dante Gabriel Rossetti andEdward Burne-Jones are most strongly associated with Aestheticism. However, their approach to Aestheticism did not share the creed of 'Art for Art's Sake' but rather "a spirited reassertion of those principles of colour, beauty, love, and cleanness that the drab, agitated, discouraging world of the mid-nineteenth century needed so much."[10] This reassertion of beauty in a drab world also connects to Pre-Raphaelite escapism in art and poetry.
In Britain the best representatives wereOscar Wilde,Algernon Charles Swinburne (both influenced by the French Symbolists),James McNeill Whistler andDante Gabriel Rossetti. These writers and their style were satirised byGilbert and Sullivan's comic operaPatience and other works, such asF. C. Burnand's dramaThe Colonel, and in comic magazines such asPunch, particularly in works byGeorge Du Maurier.[11]
Compton Mackenzie's novelSinister Street makes use of the type as a phase through which the protagonist passes as he is influenced by older, decadent individuals. The novels ofEvelyn Waugh, who was a young participant of aesthete society at Oxford University, describe the aesthetes mostly satirically, but also as a former participant. Some names associated with this assemblage areRobert Byron, Evelyn Waugh,Harold Acton,Nancy Mitford,A.E. Housman andAnthony Powell.
Artists associated with the Aesthetic style includeSimeon Solomon,James McNeill Whistler,Dante Gabriel Rossetti,Albert Joseph Moore,GF Watts andAubrey Beardsley.[4] Although the work ofEdward Burne-Jones was exhibited at theGrosvenor Gallery which promoted the movement, it is narrative and conveys moral or sentimental messages hence falling outside the movement's purported programme.
Artists such as Rossetti focused more on simply painting beautiful women than aiming for a moral message, as is apparent in the famous “Lady Lilith” and “Mona Vanna.”[12][13]John Ruskin, a former friend of Rossetti's, said that Rossetti was “lost in the Inferno of London.”[14] Rossetti painted many more aestheticism paintings in his life, including “Venus Verticordia” and “Proserpine.”
According toChristopher Dresser, the primary element of decorative art is utility. The maxim "art for art's sake," identifying art or beauty as the primary element in other branches of the Aesthetic Movement, especiallyfine art, cannot apply in this context. That is, decorative art must first have utility, but may also be beautiful.[15] However, according to Michael Shindler, the decorative art branch of the Aesthetic Movement, was less the utilitarian cousin of Aestheticism's main 'pure' branch, and more the very means by which aesthetes exercised their fundamental design strategy. Likecontemporary art, Shindler writes that aestheticism was born of "the conundrum of constituting one’s life in relation to an exterior work" and that it "attempted to overcome" this problem "by subsuming artists within their work in the hope of yielding—more than mere objects—lives which could be living artworks." Thus, "beautiful things became the sensuous set pieces of a drama in which artists were not like their forebears a sort of crew of anonymous stagehands, but stars. Consequently, aesthetes made idols ofportraits, prayers of poems, altars of writing desks, chapels of dining rooms, and fallen angels of their fellow men."[16]
Government Schools of Design were founded from 1837 onwards in order to improve the design of British goods. Following theGreat Exhibition of 1851 efforts were intensified and oriental objects were purchased for the schools teaching collections.Owen Jones, architect andorientalist, was requested to set out key principles of design and these became not only the basis of the schools teaching but also the propositions that prefaceThe Grammar of Ornament (1856), which is still regarded as the finest systematic study or practical sourcebook of historic world ornament.
Jones identified the need for a new and modern style that would meet the requirements of the modern world, rather than the continual re-cycling of historic styles, but saw no reason to reject the lessons of the past.Christopher Dresser, a student and later Professor at the school worked with Owen Jones onThe Grammar of Ornament, as well as on the 1863 decoration of the oriental courts (Chinese, Japanese, and Indian) at the South Kensington Museum (now theVictoria and Albert Museum), advanced the search for a new style with his two publicationsThe Art of Decorative Design 1862, andPrinciples of Design 1873.
Production of Aesthetic style furniture was limited to approximately the late 19th century.[citation needed] Aesthetic style furniture is characterized by several common themes:
Ebonized furniture means that the wood is painted or stained to a blackebony finish. The furniture is sometimes completely ebony-colored. More often however, there is gilding added to the carved surfaces of the feathers or stylized flowers that adorn the furniture.[citation needed]
As aesthetic movement decor was similar to the corresponding writing style in that it was about sensuality and nature, nature themes often appear on the furniture. A typical aesthetic feature is the gilded carved flower, or the stylized peacock feather. Colored paintings of birds or flowers are often seen. Non-ebonized aesthetic movement furniture may have realistic-looking three-dimensional-like renditions of birds or flowers carved into the wood.
Contrasting with the ebonized-gilt furniture is use of blue and white for porcelain and china. Similar themes of peacock feathers and nature would be used in blue and white tones on dinnerware and other crockery. The blue and white design was also popular on square porcelain tiles. It is reported that Oscar Wilde used aesthetic decorations during his youth. This aspect of the movement was also satirised byPunch magazine and inPatience.
In 1882 Oscar Wilde visited Canada, where he toured the town ofWoodstock, Ontario and gave a lecture on 29 May titled "The House Beautiful".[17] In this lecture Wilde exposited the principles of the Aesthetic Movement in decorative and applied design, also known at the time as the "Ornamental Aesthetic" style, according to which local flora and fauna were celebrated as beautiful and textured, layered ceilings were popular. An example of this can be seen inAnnandale National Historic Site, located inTillsonburg, Ontario, Canada. The house was built in 1880 and decorated by Mary Ann Tillson, who happened to attend Oscar Wilde's lecture in Woodstock. Since the Aesthetic Movement was only prevalent in the decorative arts from about 1880 until about 1890, there are not many surviving examples of this particular style but one such example is18 Stafford Terrace, London, England, which provides an insight into how the middle classes interpreted its principles.Olana, the home ofFrederic Edwin Church in upstate New York, is an important example of exoticism in the Aesthetic Movement decorative arts.[18]
The aesthetic movement in England became directly involved inadvertising, andPears soap (under advertising pioneerThomas J. Barratt) recruited English actress and socialiteLillie Langtry—who had been painted by aesthete artists and was also a friend of Oscar Wilde—to promote their products in 1882, making her the first celebrity to endorse a commercial product.[19][20][21]
British actress Lillie Langtry became the world's first celebrity endorser when her likeness appeared on packages of Pears Soap.
