Acheik (အချိတ်;[ʔət͡ɕʰeɪʔ]) orluntaya acheik (လွန်းတစ်ရာအချိတ်;lit. 'hundred shuttleacheik'), is the name of the indigenous Burmese textile pattern. It features intricate waves interwoven with bands of horizontal stripes, embellished witharabesque designs.Luntaya (လွန်းတစ်ရာ;[lʊ́ɴtəjà]), which literally means a "hundred shuttles," refers to the time-consuming, expensive, and complex process of weaving this pattern, which requires using 50 to 200 individual shuttles, each wound with a different color of silk.[1][2] The weaving is labor-intensive, requiring at least two weavers to manipulate the shuttles to achieve the interwoven wave-like patterns.[3]
Acheik is most commonly used as a textile for malepaso or femalehtamein. The color palettes used inacheik incorporate a bold array of contrasting shades in a similar color range to create a shimmeringtrompe-l'œil effect.[3] Designs for men feature simpler zig-zag, cable and interlocking lappet motifs, while those for women interweave undulating waves with arabesque embellishments such as floral motifs or creepers.[3]
The towns ofAmarapura andWundwin remain major domestic centers of traditionalacheik weaving, although in recent years, cheaper factory-produced imitations fromChina andIndia have significantly disrupted Myanmar's traditionalcottage industry.[4]
Acheik weaving originates inAmarapura, near thePahtodawgyi pagoda.[5] The nameacheik may derive from the name of the quarter in which the weavers lived,Letcheik Row (လက်ချိတ်တန်း); the term itself was previously calledwaik (ဝိုက်), referring to the woven zig-zag pattern.[5]
While some sources claim that theacheik pattern was introduced by Manipuri weavers during the late 1700s, there are no comparable Manipuri textiles that resembleacheik.[3] The wave-like patterns may have in fact been inspired by Neolithic motifs and natural phenomena (i.e., waves, clouds, indigenous flora and fauna).[5]Acheik-type designs are found on pottery dating back to thePyu city states (400s-900s CE), as well as in temple wall paintings dating back to theBagan Kingdom era (1000s-1200s CE).[3] Tributary gifts bestowed to the Burmese royal court may also have provided an additional source of inspiration.[5] The textile became popular during theKonbaung dynasty, during whichsumptuary laws regulated who could wearacheik clothing.[6] Theacheik pattern was exclusively worn by members of the royal court, officials, and their entourages.[5]
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