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Theabaya (colloquially and more commonly,Arabic:عبايةʿabāyah, especially inLiterary Arabic:عباءةʿabā'ah; pluralعباياتʿabāyāt,عباءاتʿabā'āt), sometimes also called anaba, is a simple, loose over-garment, essentially arobe-like dress, worn by some women in theMuslim world including most of theMiddle East,North Africa, and parts of theHorn of Africa.[1] Traditional abayas are usually black and may either be a large square of fabric draped from the shoulders or head or a longkaftan. Theabaya covers the whole body except the head (sometimes), feet, and hands. It can be worn with theniqāb, a face veil covering all but the eyes. Some women also wearlong black gloves, so their hands are also covered. Commonly, the abaya is worn on special occasions, such as mosque visits, Islamic holiday celebrations forEid al-Fitr andEid al-Adha, and also during the Islamic holy month ofRamadan.
The rationale for the abaya is often attributed to the Quranic quote, "O Prophet, tell your wives and daughters, and the believing women, to cover themselves with a loose garment. They will thus be recognised and no harm will come to them" (Qur'an 33:59, translated byAhmed Ali). This quotation is often used to argue for wearing the abaya.
Outside some states such as Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Yemen, UAE, Qatar and Pakistan[2] the abaya is not widely worn by Muslim women. Abaya also refers to different garments in different countries. InArab states of the Persian Gulf, they tend to be black.
InSaudi Arabia, women were required to cover in public.[3] However, in March 2018, theCrown PrinceMohammad bin Salman claimed thatwomen could choose what to wear in public, provided it met certain standards, when he stated, "The decision is entirely left for women to decide what type of decent and respectful attire she chooses to wear".[4][5]
American military pilotMartha McSally was represented byThe Rutherford Institute inMcSally v. Rumsfeld, a successful 2001 lawsuit against theUnited States Department of Defense, challenging the military policy that required U.S. and U.K. servicewomen stationed in Saudi Arabia to wear the abaya when traveling off base in the country.[6][7][8]
In 2002, GeneralTommy Franks, then commander of theUnited States Central Command, announced that U.S. military servicewomen would no longer be required to wear the abaya, although they would be "encouraged" to do so as a show of respect for local customs. Commenting on the change, Central Command spokesman Colonel Rick Thomas said it was not made because of McSally's lawsuit but had already been "under review" before the lawsuit was filed. McSally had been working to change the policy for several years and had filed the lawsuit after she had been threatened with acourt martial if she did not comply.[9][10]
Also in 2002, the U.S. Congress passed legislation prohibiting anyone in the military from "requiring or encouraging servicewomen to put on abayas in Saudi Arabia or to use taxpayers' money to buy them."[11][12]
Abayas are commonly worn in the United Arab Emirates. They are often made with fabrics such as crêpe,georgette, andchiffon and light colors like beige and white that are suited to the country’s climate.
The abaya in Indonesia takes on a unique style called the "jilbab." It is paired with a headscarf and is often brightly colored or patterned, reflecting the vibrant Indonesian culture.
Abayas are known by various names but serve the same purpose, which is to cover. Contemporary models are usuallycaftans, cut from light, flowing fabrics likecrepe,georgette, andchiffon. Other known styles are front-open and front-closed abayas. Styles differ from region to region: some abayas have embroidery on black fabric, while others are brightly colored and have different forms of artwork across them.
In August 2023, French education ministerGabriel Attal said that abayas would be banned in state schools as they breached the "principle of secularism".[13] On 4 September, the first day of the new academic year, French schools sent 67 girls home for refusing to remove their abayas.[14]
In the mid-20th century, the influence ofWestern fashion began to permeate the Arab world. This led to a significant transformation in abaya design. While the basic silhouette remained the same, new fabrics like silk, chiffon, and lace were introduced. Designers began experimenting with colors, patterns, cuts, and styles, blending traditional elements with contemporary fashion trends.
Media related toAbayas at Wikimedia Commons
