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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Competition climbing event in Hachioji, Japan
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Official event logo
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
LocationJapanHachioji, Japan
Date11–21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue

The2019IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held inHachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted oflead,speed,bouldering, and combined events. Theparaclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July inBriançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

Medal summary

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Medalists

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EventGoldSilverBronze
Men's Lead Adam Ondra (CZE) Alexander Megos (GER) Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's Bouldering Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Jakob Schubert (AUT) Yannick Flohé (GER)
Men's Speed Ludovico Fossali (ITA) Jan Kriz (CZE) Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Combined Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Jakob Schubert (AUT) Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's Lead Janja Garnbret (SLO) Mia Krampl (SLO) Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's Bouldering Janja Garnbret (SLO) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's Speed Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) Di Niu (CHN) Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's Combined Janja Garnbret (SLO) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table

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  *   Host nation (Japan)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Slovenia3104
2 Japan*2215
3 Czech Republic1102
4 Italy1001
 Poland1001
6 Austria0213
7 Germany0112
8 China0101
9 Great Britain0022
10 France0011
 Kazakhstan0011
 Russia0011
Totals (12 entries)88824

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

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Main article:Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
MenWomen

 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)
 Kai Harada (JPN)*

 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
 Miho Nonaka (JPN)*

* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

Schedule

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All times and dates useJapan Standard Time (UTC+9)[6]

QQualificationsSFSemi-finalsFFinals
BBoulderingLLeadSSpeedCCombined
August 201911th
Sun		12th
Mon		13th
Tue		14th
Wed		15th
Thu		16th
Fri		17th
Sat		18th
Sun		19th
Mon		20th
Tue		21st
Wed
MenBBBLLLRest daySSCC
WomenBCC

Bouldering

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Women

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RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal[7]
1SloveniaJanja Garnbret5t5z 5 53t4z 7 63T3z 8 8
2JapanAkiyo Noguchi5t5z 9 92t4z 3 82T2z 4 2
3United KingdomShauna Coxsey3t5z 6 90t3z 0 62T2z 6 6
4UkraineIevgeniia Kazbekova4t5z 14 141t2z 2 31T2z 3 4
5JapanMiho Nonaka3t4z 4 80t3z 0 51T2z 5 6
6JapanNanako Kura5t5z 12 101t2z 1 50T1z 0 1

Men

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RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal[8]
1JapanTomoa Narasaki4t4z 8 52t4z 2 42T4z 12 20
2AustriaJakob Schubert3t4z 5 61t4z 3 120T3z 0 10
3GermanyYannick Flohé3t5z 5 142t4z 13 160T3z 0 13
4JapanKokoro Fujii4t4z 5 52t4z 5 60T3z 0 18
5JapanKeita Dohi3t5z 6 82t4z 5 100T2z 0 9
6Czech RepublicAdam Ondra5t5z 6 63t4z 11 70T0z 0 0

Lead

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Women

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RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal[9]
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
1SloveniaJanja GarnbretTOP1TOP11.2238+43+
2SloveniaMia Krampl35+63277.353439+
3JapanAi Mori39+2TOP11.7334+38+
4South KoreaSeo Chae-hyun3483845.663238+
5JapanAkiyo Noguchi34+733+66.483238+
6AustriaJessica Pilz37+331+128.2630+35+
7SloveniaVita Lukan282131+1221.183530+
8FranceJulia Chanourdie31+1031+1214.9730+30+

Men

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RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal[10]
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
1Czech RepublicAdam OndraTOP131229.0737+34+
2GermanyAlex MegosTOP132+76.0640+33+
3AustriaJakob SchubertTOP1TOP13.5030+33+
4JapanTomoa NarasakiTOP1TOP13.503830
5CanadaSean McColl31+9TOP15.6137+30
6ItalyStefano Ghisolfi28+18TOP18.0529+29+
7JapanKai Harada32+8TOP15.2931+28+
8SwedenHannes Puman29+1132+711.6829+27+

Speed

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Women

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Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
            
1 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.472
16 MingWei Ni (CHN)7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL)8.008
8 Patrycja Chudziak (POL)8.114
9 Elena Remizova (RUS)fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN)fall
4 Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)8.465
13 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.789
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN)7.192
5 YiLing Song (CHN)7.436
12 Anna Brożek (POL)7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.129
 Di Niu (CHN)8.363
2 Mariia Krasavina (RUS)7.454
15 Andrea Rojas (ECU)8.202
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS)7.998
 Di Niu (CHN)7.814
7 Natalia Kałucka (POL)7.895
10 Di Niu (CHN)7.871
 Di Niu (CHN)7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.535
3 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)8.409Small final
14 Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.663 YiLing Song (CHN)9.76
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)10.188 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.53
6 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)7.747
11 PeiYang Tian (CHN)8.080

Men

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Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]

Round of 16Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
            
1 Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)6.150
16 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.944
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)5.863
8 Sergey Rukin (RUS)fall
9 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)6.232
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)fall
 Jan Kriz (CZE)5.986
4 Reza Alipour (IRI)6.281
13 John Brosler (USA)9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI)7.248
 Jan Kriz (CZE)6.219
5 Long Cao (CHN)6.441
12 Jan Kriz (CZE)6.136
 Jan Kriz (CZE)fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)6.871
2 Vladislav Deulin (RUS)5.612
15 QiXin Zhong (CHN)5.580
 QiXin Zhong (CHN)FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC
7 Amir Maimuratov (KAZ)fall
10 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)FS
3 Bassa Mawem (FRA)7.470Small final
14 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.613 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.83
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)7.500 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.93
6 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.940
11 ZhiYong Ou (CHN)6.072
WC – Wildcard
FS – False start

Combined

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Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]

Women

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[14]

RankNamePointsSpeedBoulderingLead
RankTimeRankScoreRankHolds
1SloveniaJanja Garnbret12.00613.39921T2z 1 21Top
2JapanAkiyo Noguchi21.00710.08212T2z 3 3340+
3United KingdomShauna Coxsey42.0029.22531T2z 2 3720
4PolandAleksandra Mirosław64.0017.75080T0z 0 0810
5JapanMiho Nonaka80.00412.35641T2z 3 4523+
6JapanAi Mori80.00812.86051T2z 3 72Top
7JapanFutaba Ito120.0058.65560T2z 0 2427
8SwitzerlandPetra Klingler126.0038.90170T2z 0 3623+

Men

[edit]

[15]

RankNamePointsSpeedBoulderingLead
RankTimeRankScoreRankHolds
1JapanTomoa Narasaki4.002fall13T3z 4 3230
2AustriaJakob Schubert35.0077.20850T3z 0 61Top
3KazakhstanRishat Khaibullin40.0015.91580T1z 0 2522
4JapanKai Harada54.0036.34860T2z 0 6330
5JapanMeichi Narasaki60.0056.68921T3z 1 4621
6JapanKokoro Fujii72.0069.43831T3z 2 6429+
7FranceMickaël Mawem112.0046.71641T2z 3 4720
8GermanyAlexander Megos448.0087.57070T1z 0 180

See also

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References

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  1. ^"IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived fromthe original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. ^"IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived fromthe original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. ^ab"GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. 5 August 2019. Archived fromthe original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived fromthe original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. ^"Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games".The Japan Times. Archived fromthe original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. ^ab"All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019".Olympics.com. Retrieved2021-09-09.
  7. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  8. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  9. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  10. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  11. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  12. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. RetrievedAugust 13, 2019.
  13. ^"IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2"(PDF). IFSC. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  14. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. RetrievedAugust 20, 2019.
  15. ^"IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC.Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. RetrievedAugust 20, 2019.

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