TheCamino de Santiago (Latin:Peregrinatio Compostellana,lit.'Pilgrimage of Compostela';Galician:O Camiño de Santiago),[1] or theWay of St. James in English, is a network ofpilgrims' ways orpilgrimages leading to the shrine of theapostleJames in thecathedral of Santiago de Compostela inGalicia in northwesternSpain, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle are buried. Pilgrims follow its routes as a form of spiritual path or retreat for their spiritual growth. It is also popular with hikers, cyclists, and organized tour groups.
In 1987, the Camino, which encompasses several routes in Spain,France, and Portugal, was declared the firstCultural Route of the Council of Europe. Since 2013, the Camino has attracted more than 200,000 pilgrims each year, with an annual growth rate of more than 10 percent. Pilgrims come mainly on foot and often from nearby cities, requiring several days of walking to reach Santiago. TheFrench Way gathers two-thirds of the walkers, but other minor routes are experiencing a growth in popularity.The French Way and the Northern routes in Spain were inscribed on theUNESCOWorld Heritage List, followed by theroutes in France in 1998, because of their historical significance for Christianity as a major pilgrimage route and their testimony to the exchange of ideas and cultures across the routes.[2][3]
The reliquary of Saint James in the Cathedral of Santiago
The Way of St. James was one of the most importantChristian pilgrimages during the laterMiddle Ages, and a pilgrimage route on which aplenary indulgence could be earned;[4] other major pilgrimage routes include theVia Francigena toRome and the pilgrimage toJerusalem. Legend holds thatSt James's remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in what is now the city ofSantiago de Compostela[5] (according to Spanish legends, Saint James had spent time preaching the gospel in Spain, but returned to Judaea upon seeing a vision of the Virgin Mary on the bank of theEbro River).[6][7]
Pilgrims on the Way can take one of dozens of pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Traditionally, as with most pilgrimages, the Way of Saint James begins at one's home and ends at the pilgrimage site. However, a few of the routes are considered main ones. During theMiddle Ages, the route was highly travelled. However, theBlack Death, theProtestant Reformation, and political unrest in 16th century Europe led to its decline.
Whenever St James'sDay (25 July) falls on aSunday, the cathedral declares a Holy Year (not to be confused with aJubilee Year which is celebrated every 25 or 50 years, with extraordinary jubilees in addition depending on need). Depending on leap years, Holy Years occur in 5-, 6-, and 11-year intervals. The most recent were 1993, 1999, 2004, 2010 and 2021. The next will be in 2027.[8]
Roman bridge with 19 arches over the riverÓrbigo. The bridge has been integrated into the modern Camino Francés.
Themain pilgrimage route to Santiago follows an earlier Roman trade route, which continues to theAtlantic coast ofGalicia, ending atCape Finisterre. Although it is known today that Cape Finisterre, Spain's westernmost point, is not the westernmost point of Europe (Cabo da Roca inPortugal is farther west), the fact that the Romans called itFinisterrae (literally theend of the world orLand's End inLatin) indicates that they viewed it as such. At night, theMilky Way overhead seems to point the way, so the route acquired the nickname "Voie lactée" – the Milky Way in French.[9]
St. James's shell, a symbol of the route, on a wall inLeón, Spain
A stylised scallop shell, the modern sign post of the Way
A marker indicating the route of the Way of St. James
Traditional St James pilgrim accessories
Thescallop shell, often found on the shores in Galicia, has long been the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. Over the centuries the scallop shell has taken on a variety of meanings, metaphorical, practical, and mythical, even if its relevance may have actually derived from the desire of pilgrims to take home a souvenir.
One myth says that after James's death, his body was transported by a ship piloted by an angel, back to theIberian Peninsula to be buried in what is nowLibredón. As the ship approached land, the wedding of the daughter ofQueen Lupa was taking place on shore.[10] The young groom was on horseback, and, upon seeing the ship's approach, his horse got spooked, and horse and rider plunged into the sea. Through miraculous intervention, the horse and rider emerged from the water alive, covered in seashells.[11]: 71
From its connection to the Camino, the scallop shell came to represent pilgrimage, both to a specific shrine as well as to heaven, recalling Hebrews 11:13, identifying that Christians "are pilgrims and strangers on the earth".[12] The scallop shell symbol is used as a waymarker on the Camino, and is commonly seen on pilgrims themselves, who are thereby identified as pilgrims. During the medieval period, the shell was more a proof of completion than a symbol worn during the pilgrimage.The pilgrim's staff is a walking stick used by some pilgrims on the way to the shrine of Santiago de Compostela in Spain.[13] Generally, the stick has a hook so that something may be hung from it; it may have a crosspiece.[14] The usual form of representation is with a hook,[15] but in some the hook is absent.[16] The pilgrim's staff is represented under different forms and is referred to using different names, e.g. a pilgrim's crutch, a crutch-staff. The crutch, perhaps, should be represented with the transverse piece on the top of the staff (like the letter "T") instead of across it.[17]
Marker of the Camino near the entrance to theTaboada Bridge, a 10th century bridge located in theSilleda Council ofPontevedra Province inSpain. The bridge is still used today by the pilgrims on their way to Santiago using the Silver Way (Vía de la Plata).
Saint James with his pilgrim's staff. The hat is typical, but he often wears his emblem, the scallop shell, on the front brim of the hat or elsewhere on his clothes
Way of St. James pilgrims (1568)
The earliest records of visits paid to the shrine atSantiago de Compostela date from the 9th century, in the time of theKingdom of Asturias andGalicia. The pilgrimage to the shrine became the most renowned medieval pilgrimage, and it became customary for those who returned from Compostela to carry back with them aGalicianscallop shell as proof of their completion of the journey. This practice gradually led to the scallop shell becoming the badge of a pilgrim.[18]
The earliest recorded pilgrims from beyond thePyrenees visited the shrine in the middle of the 11th century, but it seems that it was not until a century later that large numbers of pilgrims from abroad were regularly journeying there. The earliest records of pilgrims that arrived fromEngland belong to the period between 1092 and 1105. However, by the early 12th century the pilgrimage had become a highly organized affair.[19]
One of the great proponents of the pilgrimage in the 12th century wasPope Callixtus II, who started the Compostelan Holy Years.[20]
Early 18th century facade of the San Marcos Monastery in Leon, which provided care for pilgrims over many centuries
The daily needs of pilgrims on their way to and from Compostela were met by a series ofhospitals. Indeed, these institutions contributed to the development of the modern concept of 'hospital'. Some Spanish towns still bear the name, such asHospital de Órbigo. The hospitals were often staffed by Catholic orders and under royal protection. Donations were encouraged but many poorer pilgrims had few clothes and poor health often barely getting to the next hospital. Due to this,María Ramírez de Medrano founded one of the earliest hospitals of San Juan de Acre inNavarrete and acommandery for the protection of pilgrims on the Compostela route.[21]
Romanesque architecture, a new genre of ecclesiastical architecture, was designed with massive archways to cope with huge crowds of the devout.[22]
There was also the sale of the now-familiar paraphernalia oftourism, such as badges and souvenirs. Pilgrims often prayed toSaint Roch whose numerous depictions with theCross of St James can still be seen along the Way. On the Camino, the cross is often seen with aPilgrim's scallop to mark the way of the pilgrimage.[23]
The pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela was made possible by the protection and freedom provided by theKingdom of France, from which the majority of pilgrims originated. Enterprising French (includingGascons and other peoples not under the French crown) settled in towns along the pilgrimage routes, where their names appear in the archives. The pilgrims were tended by people likeDomingo de la Calzada, who was later recognized as a saint.
Pilgrims walked the Way of St. James, often for months and occasionally years at a time, to arrive at the great church in the main square of Compostela and pay homage to St James. Many arrived with very little due to illness or robbery or both. Traditionally pilgrims lay their hands on the pillar just inside the doorway of the cathedral, and so many now have done this it has visibly worn away the stone.[24]
The popular Spanish name for the astronomicalMilky Way isEl Camino de Santiago. According to a common medieval legend, theMilky Way was formed from the dust raised by travelling pilgrims.[25]
The official guide in those times was theCodex Calixtinus. Published around 1140, the 5th book of the codex is still considered the definitive source for many modern guidebooks. Four pilgrimage routes listed in the codex originate in France and converge atPuente la Reina. From there, a well-defined route crosses northern Spain, linkingBurgos,Carrión de los Condes,Sahagún,León,Astorga, and Compostela.
Another legend states that when a hermit saw a bright star shining over a hillside near San Fiz de Solovio, he informed the bishop of Iria Flavia, who found a grave at the site with three bodies inside, one of which, he asserted, was that of St James. Subsequently, the location was called "the field of the star" (Campus Stellae, corrupted to "Compostela").[26]
Another origin myth mentioned inBook IV of theBook of Saint James relates how the saint appeared in a dream toCharlemagne, urging him to liberate his tomb from theMoors and showing him the direction to follow by the route of the Milky Way.[citation needed]
The Church employed (and employs) rituals (the sacrament of confession) that can lead to the imposition by a priest ofpenance, through which the sinner atones for his or her sins. Pilgrimages were deemed to be a suitable form of expiation for sin and long pilgrimages would be imposed as penance for very serious sins. As noted in theCatholic Encyclopedia:
In the registers of the Inquisition at Carcassone ... we find the four following places noted as being the centres of the greater pilgrimages to be imposed as penances for the graver crimes: the tombs of the Apostles at Rome, the shrine of St. James at Compostella [sic], St. Thomas' body at Canterbury, and the relics of the Three Kings at Cologne.
Pilgrimages could also be imposed as judicial punishment for crime, a practice that is still occasionally used today. For example, a tradition inFlanders persists of pardoning and releasing one prisoner every year[27] under the condition that, accompanied by a guard, the prisoner walks to Santiago wearing a heavy backpack.
During theAmerican Revolution,John Adams (who would become the second President of the United States) was ordered byCongress to go toParis to obtain funds for the cause. His ship started leaking and he disembarked with his two sons atFinisterre in 1779. From there, he proceeded to follow the Way of St. James in the reverse direction of the pilgrims' route, in order to get to Paris overland. He did not stop to visit Santiago, which he later regretted. In his autobiography, Adams described the customs and lodgings afforded to St James's pilgrims in the 18th century and he recounted the legend as it was told to him:[28]
I have always regretted that We could not find time to make a Pilgrimage to Saintiago de Compostella. We were informed ... that the Original of this Shrine and Temple of St. Iago was this. A certain Shepherd saw a bright Light there in the night. Afterwards it was revealed to an Archbishop that St. James was buried there. This laid the Foundation of a Church, and they have built an Altar on the Spot where the Shepherd saw the Light. In the time of the Moors, the People made a Vow, that if the Moors should be driven from this Country, they would give a certain portion of the Income of their Lands to Saint James. The Moors weredefeated and expelled and it was reported and believed, that Saint James was in the Battle and fought with a drawn Sword at the head of the Spanish Troops, on Horseback. The People, believing that they owed the Victory to the Saint, very cheerfully fulfilled their Vows by paying the Tribute. ... Upon the Supposition that this is the place of the Sepulchre of Saint James, there are great numbers of Pilgrims, who visit it, every Year, from France, Spain, Italy and other parts of Europe, many of them on foot.
A boardwalk on the Portuguese coastal Way: Coastal sand dunes ofPóvoa de Varzim
Although it is commonly believed that the pilgrimage to Santiago has continued without interruption since the Middle Ages, few modern pilgrimages antedate the 1957 publication of IrishHispanist and travellerWalter Starkie'sThe Road to Santiago.[11] The revival of the pilgrimage was supported by the Spanish government ofFrancisco Franco, much inclined to promote Spain's Catholic history. "It has been only recently (1990s) that the pilgrimage to Santiago regained the popularity it had in the Middle Ages."[29]
Since then, hundreds of thousands (over 300,000 in 2017)[30] of Christianpilgrims and many others set out each year from their homes, or from popular starting points across Europe, to make their way to Santiago de Compostela. Most travel by foot, some bybicycle, and some even travel as theirmedieval counterparts did, on horseback or bydonkey. In addition to those undertaking a religious pilgrimage, many are hikers who walk the route for travel or sport, along with an interest in exploring their own relationship with themselves, other people, nature, and what they perceive as being sacred.[31] Also, many consider the experience a spiritual retreat from modern life.[32]
TheCamino Francés, orFrench Way, is the most popular. TheVia Regia is the last portion of the Camino Francés.[citation needed] Historically, because of theCodex Calixtinus, most pilgrims came from France: typically fromArles,Le Puy,Paris, andVézelay; some from Saint Gilles.Cluny, site of the celebrated medieval abbey, was another important rallying point for pilgrims and, in 2002, it was integrated into the official European pilgrimage route linking Vézelay and Le Puy.
Most Spanish consider the French border in thePyrenees the natural starting point. By far the most common, modern starting point on the Camino Francés isSaint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, on the French side of the Pyrenees, withRoncesvalles on the Spanish side also being popular.[36] The distance from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela throughLeón is about 800 km (500 mi).
TheCamino Primitivo, orOriginal Way, is the oldest route to Santiago de Compostela, first taken in the 9th century, which begins inOviedo.[37] It is 320 km (199 miles) long.
Camino Portugués, orPortuguese Way, is the second-most-popular route,[36] starting at the cathedral inLisbon (for a total of about 610 km) or at the cathedral inPorto in the north ofPortugal (for a total of about 227 km), and crossing into Galicia atValença.[38]
TheCamino del Norte, orNorthern Way, is also less travelled and starts in the Basque city ofIrun on the border with France, or sometimes inSan Sebastián. It is a less popular route because of its changes in elevation, whereas the Camino Frances is mostly flat. The route follows the coast along theBay of Biscay until it nears Santiago. Though it does not pass through as many historic points of interest as the Camino Frances, it has cooler summer weather. The route is believed to have been first used by pilgrims to avoid traveling through the territories occupied by the Muslims in the Middle Ages.[39] From Irun the path is 817 km (508 miles) long.
The Central European Camino was revived after the Fall of theBerlin Wall. Medieval routes, Camino Baltico and the Via Regia in Poland pass through present-dayPoland reach as far north as theBaltic states, taking inVilnius, and Eastwards to present-dayUkraine and take inLviv,Sandomierz andKraków.[40]
Monastery of San Xuliàn de Samos, which provides shelter for pilgrims
In Spain, France, and Portugal, pilgrims'hostels with beds in dormitories provide overnight accommodation for pilgrims who hold acredencial (see below). In Spain this type of accommodation is called arefugio oralbergue, both of which are similar toyouth hostels or hostelries in the French system ofgîtes d'étape.
Hostels may be run by a local parish, the local council, private owners, or pilgrims' associations. Occasionally, theserefugios are located in monasteries, such as the one in theMonastery of San Xulián de Samos that is run by monks, and the one in Santiago de Compostela.
Most pilgrims purchase and carry a document called thecredencial,[41] which gives access to overnight accommodation along the route. Also known as the "pilgrim's passport", thecredencial is stamped with the official St. James stamp of each town orrefugio at which the pilgrim has stayed. It provides pilgrims with a record of where they ate or slept and serves as proof to the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago that the journey was accomplished according to an official route and thus that the pilgrim qualifies to receive acompostela (certificate of completion of the pilgrimage).
Thecompostela is a certificate of accomplishment given to pilgrims on completing the Way. To earn thecompostela one needs to walk a minimum of 100 km or cycle at least 200 km. In practice, for walkers, the closest convenient point to start isSarria, as it has good bus and rail connections to other places in Spain. Pilgrims arriving inSantiago de Compostela who have walked at least the last 100 km (62 mi), or cycled 200 km (120 mi) to get there (as indicated on theircredencial), and who state that their motivation was at least partially religious, are eligible for thecompostela from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago.[42]
Thecompostela has beenindulgenced since the Early Middle Ages and remains so to this day, during Holy Years.[43] The English translation reads:
The CHAPTER of this holy apostolic and metropolitan Church of Compostela, guardian of the seal of the Altar of the blessed Apostle James, in order that it may provide authentic certificates of visitation to all the faithful and to pilgrims from all over the earth who come with devout affection or for the sake of a vow to the shrine of our Apostle St. James, the patron and protector of Spain, hereby makes known to each and all who shall inspect this present document that [Name]
has visited this most sacred temple for the sake of pious devotion. As a faithful witness of these things I confer upon him [or her] the present document, authenticated by the seal of the same Holy Church.
Given at Compostela on the [day] of the month of [month] in the year of the Lord [year].
Deputy Canon for Pilgrims
The simpler certificate of completion in Spanish for those with non-religious motivation reads:
La S.A.M.I. Catedral de Santiago de Compostela le expresa su bienvenida cordial a la Tumba Apostólica de Santiago el Mayor; y desea que el Santo Apóstol le conceda, con abundancia, las gracias de la Peregrinación.
English translation:
The Holy Apostolic Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela expresses its warm welcome to the Tomb of the Apostle St. James the Greater; and wishes that the holy Apostle may grant you, in abundance, the graces of the Pilgrimage.
The Pilgrim's Office gives more than 100,000 compostelas each year to pilgrims from more than 100 countries. However, the requirements to earn a compostela ensure that not everyone who walks on the Camino receives one. The requirements for receiving a compostela are:1) make the Pilgrimage for religious/spiritual reasons or at least have an attitude of search, 2) do the last 100 km on foot or horseback or the last 200 km by bicycle. 3) collect a certain number of stamps on a credencial.[44]
A Pilgrim'sMass is held in theCathedral of Santiago de Compostela each day at 12:00 and 19:30.[45] Pilgrims who received thecompostela the day before have their countries of origin and the starting point of their pilgrimage announced at the Mass. TheBotafumeiro, one of the largestcensers in the world, is operated during certainSolemnities and on every Friday, exceptGood Friday, at 19:30.[46] Priests administer theSacrament of Penance, or confession, in many languages. In the Holy Year of 2010 the Pilgrim's Mass was exceptionally held four times a day, at 10:00, 12:00, 18:00, and 19:30, catering for the greater number of pilgrims arriving in the Holy Year.[47]
TheXunta de Galicia (Galicia's regional government) promotes the Way as a tourist activity, particularly in Holy Compostela Years (when 25 July falls on a Sunday). Following Galicia's investment and advertising campaign for the Holy Year of 1993, the number of pilgrims completing the route has been steadily rising. The most recent Holy Year occurred in 2021, 11 years after the last Holy Year of 2010. The next Holy Year pilgrimage will occur in 2027.[48]
The Pilgrims Office publishes statistics regarding pilgrims who got the certificate of accomplishment. In 2024 the most popular routes were the Frances (47%), Portugues (19%), Potuguese Costa (15%), Ingles (5.6%), Primitivo (4.9%) and Norte (4.3%). Most pilgrims had a Spanish nationality (44%), followed by US-Americans (8%), Italians (6%), Germans (4.9%) and Portuguese (4.6%). Most pilgrims started in Sarria (32%),Tui/Valença (11.3%),Porto (10.5%),Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (6.9%) andFerrol (5.7%). 93% do the journey on foot and 4.6% by bike. The months in which most pilgrims finish their journey in Santiago de Compostela are from May to September.[49]
Year
Pilgrims
2024
499,239
2023
446,035
2022
437,507
2021
178,9121, 4
2020
54,1444
2019
347,578
2018
327,378
2017
301,036
2016
277,915
2015
262,458
2014
237,886
2013
215,880
2012
192,488
2011
179,919
2010
272,7031
2009
145,877
2008
125,141
2007
114,026
2006
100,377
2005
93,924
2004
179,9441
2003
74,614
2002
68,952
2001
61,418
2000
55,004³
1999
154,6131
1998
30,126
1997
25,179
1996
23,218
1995
19,821
1994
15,863
1993
99,4361
1992
9,764
1991
7,274
1990
4,918
1989
5,760²
1988
3,501
1987
2,905
1986
1,801
1985
690
1 Holy Years (Xacobeo/Jacobeo) 2 4th World Youth Day in Santiago de Compostela 3 Santiago named European Capital of Culture 4 Years ofCOVID-19 pandemic Source: The archives of Santiago de Compostela.[50][51][52][33]
The pilgrimage is central to the plot of the filmThe Milky Way (1969), directed bysurrealistLuis Buñuel. It is intended to critique the Catholic church, as the modern pilgrims encounter various manifestations of Catholic dogma and heresy.
The Naked Pilgrim (2003) documents the journey of art critic and journalistBrian Sewell to Santiago de Compostela for the UK's Channel Five. Travelling by car along the French route, he visited many towns and cities on the way including Paris,Chartres,Roncesvalles,Burgos,León andFrómista. Sewell, a lapsed Catholic, was moved by the stories of other pilgrims and by the sights he saw. The series climaxed with Sewell's emotional response to the Mass at Compostela.
The Way of St. James was the central feature of the filmSaint Jacques... La Mecque (2005) directed byColine Serreau.
InThe Way (2010), written and directed byEmilio Estevez,Martin Sheen learns that his son (Estevez) has died early along the route and takes up the pilgrimage in order to complete it on the son's behalf. The film was presented at theToronto International Film Festival in September 2010[53][54] and premiered in Santiago in November 2010.
On hisPBS travel Europe television series,Rick Steves covers Northern Spain and the Camino de Santiago in series 6.[55]
In 2013,Simon Reeve presented the "Pilgrimage" series on BBC2, in which he followed various pilgrimage routes across Europe, including the Camino de Santiago in episode 2.[56]
In 2014, Lydia B Smith[57] and Future Educational Films releasedWalking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago[58] in theatres across the U.S. and Canada. The film features the accounts and perspectives of six pilgrims as they navigate their respective journeys from France to Santiago de Compostela. In 2015, it was distributed across the World, playing theatres throughout Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. It recently aired on NPTV and continues to be featured in festivals relating to the Spirituality, Mind Body, Travel, and Adventure.
In the 2017 movieThe Trip to Spain, the Camino de Santiago is mentioned asRob Brydon quizzesSteve Coogan about what the Camino is and proceeds to explain what it is with a brief history of it.
^In other languages:Spanish:El Camino de Santiago;Portuguese:O Caminho de Santiago;French:Le chemin de Saint-Jacques;German:Der Jakobsweg;Italian:Il Cammino di san Giacomo.
^Kent, William H. (1913)."Indulgences" . In Herbermann, Charles (ed.).Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company. This entry on indulgences suggests that the evolution of the doctrine came to include a pilgrimage to shrines as a trend that developed from the 8th century A.D.: "Among other forms of commutation were pilgrimages to well-known shrines such as that atSt. Albans inEngland or at Compostela in Spain. But the most important place of pilgrimage was Rome. According toBede (674–735) thevisitatio liminum, or visit to the tomb of the Apostles, was even then regarded as a good work of great efficacy (Hist. Eccl., IV, 23). At first the pilgrims came simply to venerate the relics of theApostles andmartyrs, but in course of time their chief purpose was to gain the indulgences granted by the pope and attached especially to theStations."
^Pilgrim's or Palmer's StaffFrench:bourdon: this was used as a device in a coat of arms as early at least as Edward II's reign, as will be seen. The Staff and the Escallop shell were the badge of the pilgrim, and hence it is but natural it should find its way into the shields of those who had visited the Holy Land.
^Camino Polaco. Teologia - Sztuka - Historia - Teraźniejszość - Edited by Fr. dr. Piotr Roszak and professor dr. Waldemar Rozynkowski. published by Wydawnictwo Naukowe Uniwersytetu Mikołaja Kopernika (Toruń); volume 1 (2014), volume 2 (2015), volume 3 (2016) in Polish.
^Barry Smith, Olimpia Giuliana Loddo and Giuseppe Lorini, "On Credentials",Journal of Social Ontology, DOI:https://doi.org/10.1515/jso-2019-0034 | Published online: 7 Aug 2020.
^"Masses Hours".catedraldesantiago.es. Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. Archived fromthe original on 12 August 2016. Retrieved6 August 2016.
^"The Botafumeiro".catedraldesantiago.es. Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. Archived fromthe original on 12 August 2016. Retrieved6 August 2016.
^"The Holy Year: When Does the Holy Year Take Place?".catedraldesantiago.es. Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. Archived fromthe original on 16 August 2016. Retrieved6 August 2016.It is Holy Year in Compostela when the 25th of July, Commemoration of the Martyrdom of Saint James, falls on a Sunday. 8 December 2015 – 20 November 2016
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