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| Alternative names | Papaítan, Sangkutsar |
|---|---|
| Type | Stew,Soup |
| Course | Main course,Appetizer |
| Place of origin | Philippines |
| Region or state | Ilocos region |
| Associatedcuisine | Filipino cuisine |
| Serving temperature | Hot |
| Main ingredients | Goat, cow, or carabao meat; offal (liver, intestines, kidneys); andbile orcud |
| Ingredients generally used | Ginger,shallots (oronions),garlic, andchili peppers |
| Variations | Sinanglao, Kinigtot, Kappukan (Ata-ata) |
| Similar dishes | Sapie (柠檬撒), Niu Bie Tang (牛瘪汤), Nam Pia (Nặm pịa), Kaleskes |
Pinapaitan, also known aspapaítan orsangkutsar, is aFilipino stew characterized by its distinctivebitter, savory, and slightly sour flavor with a rich, earthy profile.[1][2] It is traditionally prepared usingginger, meat andoffal such as the liver, heart, kidneys, and intestines ofgoat,cow, orcarabao.[3][4] The dish’s signature bitterness comes frombile,chyme, orcud extracted from the gallbladder of these animals;[5][6] in some preparations, traces of bile may also be present in theabomasum (the fourth stomach), where digestion occurs, contributing to the bitter taste.[7][8] Pinapaitan originated in theIlocos Region of northwesternLuzon,Philippines.[9] It is commonly served as amain dish, abreakfast meal, orpulutan (food consumed with alcoholic beverages), and is often eaten withsteammed rice.[10][11]
Pinapaitan has numerous regional variations, some of which usecalamansi or otherbittering agents as substitutes for bile.[12][13] The dish is often compared tosinanglao (also spelledsinanglaw), another Filipino-Ilocano innard soup, as both share similar ingredients and cooking methods; however, sinanglao does not includepait (bile).[14][15] Pinapaitan is also comparable to otherIlocano dishes such asata-ata,kinigtot, imbaliktad, andkappukan, which similarly usepait and comparable ingredients but differ in preparation and cooking techniques.[16]
The namepinapaítan (or papaítan) is derived from the Ilocano root wordpaít, meaning "bitter" or "bitter taste," a direct reference to the dish's signature flavor, which comes from animalbile orcud (papaít).[3] The term also reflects the process of making the stew bitter ("to have made bitter") and highlights the use of goat or beef innards, demonstrating Ilocano resourcefulness and preference for distinct flavors.[3][1]
Its alternative name,sangkutsar, is aFilipinized form of theSpanish termsancochar, meaning"to parboil," referring to the cooking method used in preparing the dish.[2]
Pinapaitan has been a staple of Ilocano cuisine for centuries and remains a popular comfort food today.
The most probable origin ofpinapaitan is from theSpanish colonial era. In the early 1800s, theSpanish friars would get the best meat, while the Filipinos were given the less desirable cuts.Pinapaitan is said to be a product of this resourcefulness, which dates back to that time.[17]
Pinapaitan is typically prepared the same day the goat (or cattle) is butchered.[13] Bile is collected from the liver and gallbladder, or cud from the stomach or small intestines of the same animal.[18]
The meat and offal are sliced into thin bitesize pieces 3 cm to 5 cm and parboiled in water mixed with vinegar to remove impurities or gaminess. Aromatics vegetables, primarilyginger (optionallygarlic orshallots) is sauteed, followed by the meat and offal. Water is added to the meat and simmered until tender.[4]
The bile (or cud) is added to the stew towards the end of the cooking process. It is optionally soured withvinegar,bilimbi, ortamarind (pulp or leaves), or spiced withchili peppers. It may be seasoned withsalt,patis, orMSG.[12]
Some recipes usebittermelon, or its leaves, as a substitute for bile or when it is not available.[17]
Kinigtot (lit. "surprised") orginulat is a similar Ilocanostir-fried dish usinggoat meat or beef, which is mixed withpapait.[8]Kilawin is another Ilocano dish withparcooked goat that is traditionally eaten withpapait.
Ilocanos are not the only ones partial to bitter flavors usingbile.Niu bie tang is a soup made by theDong ethnic group in theGuizhou Province of China. Cattle are fed fine grass and herbs before slaughtering and extracting the ingredients. Other ingredients are added to the cud and bile and boiled to make a soup. People in Guizhou enjoy the soup as the base of noodle dishes.[19]
TheDai ethnic group in southernYunnan is noted for its noodle dishsapie(撒撇), a dish laced with bile and chyme.[8][20] Similarly, the Thái people (Vietnam) in Vietnam also has a dish called nậm pịa or nặm pịa (intestine juice). TheIsan ethnic community in northernThailand andLaotians, also feature bile inlaap (ລາບ).[21] Further afield in Italy, chyme from unweaned calves furnishes the sauce for a Roman dish calledpajata.[22][8]
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