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Missouri, a state near the geographical center of theUnited States, hasthree distinct physiographic divisions:
The boundary between the northern plains and the Ozark region follows theMissouri River from its mouth atSt. Louis toColumbia. This also corresponds to the southernmost extent of glaciation during thePre-Illinoian Stage which destroyed the remnant plateau to the north but left the ancient landforms to the south unaltered. The Ozark boundary runs southwestward from there towardsJoplin at the southeast corner ofKansas. The boundary between the Ozark and lowland regions runs southwest fromCape Girardeau on theMississippi River to theArkansas border just southwest ofPoplar Bluff. Missouri borders eight other US States, more than any other state exceptTennessee, which also borders eight states.
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The DissectedTill Plains portion of the northern plains region lies in the portion of the state north of theMissouri River, while the Osage plains portion extends into the southwestern portion of the state bordering theOzark Plateau. Thus the northern plains covers an area slightly more than a third of the state. This region is a beautiful, rolling country, with a great abundance of streams.
It is more hilly and broken in its western half than in its eastern half. The elevation in the extreme northwestern Missouri is about 1,200 ft (370 m). and in the extreme northeastern portion about 500 ft (150 m)., while the rim of the region to the southeast, along the border of the Ozark region, has an elevation of about 900 ft (270 m). The valleys for the larger streams are about 250 to 300 ft (91 m) deep and sometimes 8 to 20 miles (32 km) wide with the country bordering them being the most broken of the region.
The smaller streams have so eroded the whole face of the country that little of the original surface plain is to be seen. TheMississippi River runs along the length of Missouri's eastern side and is skirted throughout by topographic relief of 400 to 600 ft (180 m). elevation.
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TheOzarks region is essentially a low dome, with local faulting and minor undulations, dominated by a ridge or, more exactly, a relatively even belt of highland that runs from near the Mississippi river aboutSte. Genevieve toMcDonald County on the Arkansas border. High rocky bluffs rise precipitously on the Mississippi, sometimes to a height of 150 ft (46 m) or so above the water, from the mouth of theMeramec River to Ste. Genevieve. These mark where that river cuts the Ozark ridge. Across the Mississippi River, this ridge is continued by theShawnee Hills in Illinois.
The elevations of the crests in Missouri vary from 1,100 to 1,700 ft (520 m). This second physiographic region comprises somewhat less than two-thirds of the area of the state. The Burlingtonescarpment ofMississippian rocks, which in places is as much as 250 to 300 ft (91 m) in height, runs along the western edge of theOrdovician formations and divides the region into an eastern and a western area, known respectively to physiographers as the Salem Plateau and the Springfield Plateau.Headward erosion by the south flowing tributaries to theWhite River in northern Arkansas has created a southern escarpment to both the Springfield and Salem plateaus that runs fromMcDonald throughBarry,Stone,Christian,Douglas, andHowell counties. To the south of this escarpment lies some of the more rugged and highly dissected parts of the Missouri Ozarks. The famedShepherd of the Hills region nearBranson lies within this rugged area. To the east of theWest Plains plain lies the dissected valleys of theEleven Point River and theCurrent River.
Superficially, each is a simple rolling plateau, much broken by erosion (though considerable undissected areas drained by underground channels remain), especially in the east, and dotted with hills. Some of these are residual outliers of the erodedMississippianlimestones to the west, and others are the summits of aPrecambrian topography above and around whichsedimentary formations were deposited and then eroded. There is no arrangement in chains, but only scattered rounded peaks and short ridges, with winding valleys about them.
The two highest points in the state areTaum Sauk Mountain at 1,772 ft (540 m) in theSt. Francois Mountains inIron County and Lead Hill just east of the community ofCedar Gap at 1,744 ft (532 m) in the southwestern corner ofWright County. Few localities have an elevation exceeding 1,400 ft (430 m). Rather broad, smooth valleys, well degraded hills with rounded summits, and despite the escarpments generally smooth contours and sky-lines, characterize the bulk of the Ozark region.
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The third region, the lowlands of the south-east and part of the Mississippi Alluvial Plain, has an area of some 3,000-square-mile (7,800 km2). It is an undulating country, for the most part well drained, but swampy in its lowest portions. The Mississippi is skirted with lagoons, lakes and morasses from Ste. Genevieve to theArkansas border, and in places is confined by levees. These lowlands are the northernmost extent of theMississippi embayment. The area is within theNew Madrid Seismic Zone and includes theepicenter location of the1811–12 New Madrid earthquakes atNew Madrid, Missouri.
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Missouri generally has ahumid continental climate with cool, sometimes cold, winters and hot, humid, and wet summers. In the southern part of the state, particularly in theBootheel, the climate becomeshumid subtropical. Located in the interior United States, Missouri often experiences extreme temperatures. Without high mountains or oceans nearby to moderate temperature, its climate is alternately influenced by air from the cold Arctic and the hot and humid Gulf of Mexico. Missouri's highest recorded temperature is 118 °F (48 °C) atWarsaw andUnion on July 14, 1954, while the lowest recorded temperature is −40 °F (−40 °C) also at Warsaw on February 13, 1905.
Located inTornado Alley, Missouri also receives extreme weather in the form of severe thunderstorms and tornadoes. On May 22, 2011, amassive EF-5 tornado killed 158 people and destroyed roughly one-third of the city ofJoplin. The tornado caused an estimated $1–3 billion in damages and injured more than a thousand people as it tore through the urban area. It was the first EF5 to hit the state since 1957 and the deadliest in the U.S. since 1947, making it the seventh deadliest tornado in American history and 27th deadliest in the world.St. Louis and its suburbs also have a history of experiencing particularly severe tornadoes, the most recent one of note being an EF4 that damagedLambert-St. Louis International Airport on April 22, 2011.One of the worst tornadoes in American history struck St. Louis on May 27, 1896, killing at least 255 people and causing $10 million in damage (equivalent to $3.9 billion in 2009 or $5.72 billion in today's dollars).
| Monthly normal high and low temperatures for various Missouri cities in °F (°C). | |||||||||||||||
| City | Avg. | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Columbia | High | 37 (3) | 44 (7) | 55 (13) | 66 (19) | 75 (24) | 84 (29) | 89 (32) | 87 (31) | 79 (26) | 68 (20) | 53 (12) | 42 (6) | 65.0 (18.3) | |
| Columbia | Low | 18 (−8) | 23 (−5) | 33 (1) | 43 (6) | 53 (12) | 62 (17) | 66 (19) | 64 (18) | 55 (13) | 44 (7) | 33 (1) | 22 (−6) | 43.0 (6.1) | |
| Kansas City | High | 36 (2) | 43 (6) | 54 (12) | 65 (18) | 75 (24) | 84 (29) | 89 (32) | 87 (31) | 79 (26) | 68 (20) | 52 (11) | 40 (4) | 64.4 (18.0) | |
| Kansas City | Low | 18 (−8) | 23 (−5) | 33 (1) | 44 (7) | 54 (12) | 63 (17) | 68 (20) | 66 (19) | 57 (14) | 46 (8) | 33 (1) | 22 (−6) | 44.0 (6.7) | |
| Springfield | High | 42 (6) | 48 (9) | 58 (14) | 68 (20) | 76 (24) | 85 (29) | 90 (32) | 90 (32) | 81 (27) | 71 (22) | 56 (13) | 46 (8) | 67.6 (19.8) | |
| Springfield | Low | 22 (−6) | 26 (−3) | 35 (2) | 44 (7) | 53 (12) | 62 (17) | 67 (19) | 66 (19) | 57 (14) | 46 (8) | 35 (2) | 26 (−3) | 45.0 (7.2) | |
| St. Louis | High | 40 (4) | 45 (7) | 56 (13) | 67 (19) | 76 (24) | 85 (29) | 89 (32) | 88 (31) | 80 (27) | 69 (21) | 56 (13) | 43 (6) | 66.2 (19.0) | |
| St. Louis | Low | 24 (−4) | 28 (−2) | 37 (3) | 47 (8) | 57 (14) | 67 (19) | 71 (22) | 69 (21) | 61 (16) | 49 (9) | 38 (3) | 27 (−3) | 48.0 (8.9) | |
| Source:[1] | |||||||||||||||

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The drainage of the state is wholly into theMississippi River, directly or indirectly, and to a large extent into either that river or theMissouri River within the borders of the state. The latter stream, crossing the state and cutting the eastern and western borders at or near St Louis and Kansas City respectively, has a length within Missouri of 430 miles (690 km). The areas drained into the Mississippi outside the state through theSt. Francis,White and other minor streams are relatively small. The larger streams of theOzark dome are of decided interest to the physiographer. Those of the White system have open trough valleys bordered by hills in their upper courses and canyons in their lower courses.
Both the Ozark region and the northern plain region are divided by minor escarpments into ten or twelve sub-regions. There are remarkable differences in the drainage areas of their two sides, with interesting illustrations of shifting water-partings; and theWhite,Gasconade,Osage and other rivers are remarkable for upland meanders, lying, not on flood-plains, but around the spurs of a highland country. Theseincised meanders have been interpreted to have formed by downward erosion after uplift of an olderpeneplain surface.
Many streams in Missouri are called "rivers" though they are small enough perhaps to be called "creeks". This is due to a direct translation of the French word "rivière" which implies a stream size smaller than the French word "fleuve", meaning "a river that flows to the sea". An example of this is "Loutre River", from "Rivière Loutre", or "Otter Stream".

The Ozarks region has a well-developedkarst topography with numerous areas ofsinkholes,stream capture, andcavern development.[2]
Caves, within areas oflimestone anddolomite bedrock, occur in great numbers in and near the Ozark Mountain region in the southwestern part of Missouri. More than a hundred have been discovered inStone County alone, and there are many inChristian,Greene andMcDonald counties.[2]
Marvel Cave is located a short distance southeast of the center of Stone County. The entrance originally was through a large sink-hole at the top of Roark Mountain, though now an easier entrance has been made. Marvel Cave has a large hall-like room about 350 ft (110 m) long and about 125 ft (38 m) wide with bluish-grey limestone walls, and a vaulted roof, rising from 100 to 295 ft (90 m). Due to its acoustic properties the room has been named theAuditorium. At one end is a large stalagmite formation about 65 ft (20 m) in height and about 200 ft (61 m) in girth, called theWhite Throne.[3]
Exploration ofJacobs Cavern, nearPineville,McDonald County, revealed human and animal skeletons along with crude implements. Crystal Cave, near Joplin,Jasper County, has its entire surface lined withcalcite crystals and scalenohedron formations, from 1 to 2 ft (0.61 m) in length.
Other caves includeSaltpeter Cave (formerly Friede's Cave), about six miles (10 km) northeast ofRolla,Phelps County andMark Twain Cave (inMarion County, about one mile (1.6 km) south ofHannibal), which has a deep pool containing many eyeless fish.[4]
This article incorporates text from a publication now in thepublic domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Missouri".Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 13 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 607–614. (See p. 608.)