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Derbent,[a] also historically known asDarband,[7][8][9] orDerbend,[10] is the southernmost city inRussia. It is situated along the southeastern coast of theRepublic of Dagestan, occupying the narrow gateway between theCaspian Sea and theCaucasus Mountains, and connecting theEurasian Steppe to the north and theIranian Plateau to the south. Derbent covers an area of 69.63 square kilometres (26.88 mi2) with a population of roughly 120,000 residents.
Derbent is derived fromPersian "Darband" (Persian:دربند,lit.'door/opening in a barrier', fromdar "door/gate" +band "barrier/dam", lit., "gate in the barrier"[13]), referring to the eastern-most pass in the highCaucasus Mountains (whence the putative "barrier/dam") on the beaches of theCaspian Sea. (The other pass, theDarial Pass, is in the Central Caucasus Mountains, and likewise carries a Persian name, standing for "the Alan Pass/gate" – with theAlans being the modernIranicOssetians.)
It is often identified with theGates of Alexander, a legendary barrier supposedly built byAlexander the Great in theCaucasus. The Persian name for the city came into use at the end of the 5th or the beginning of the 6th century AD, when the city was re-established byKavadh I of theSassanid dynasty of Persia, but Derbent was probably already in the Sasanian sphere of influence as a result of the victory over theParthians and the conquest ofCaucasian Albania byShapur I, the second shah of theSassanid Persians.[14] The geographical treatiseŠahrestānīhā ī Ērānšahr written inMiddle Persian mentions the old name of the fortress –Wērōy-pahr (The Georgian Guard):
šahrestan [ī] kūmīs [ī] panj-burg až-i dahāg pad šabestān kard. māniš [ī] *pārsīgān ānōh būd. padxwadayīh [ī] yazdgird ī šabuhrān kard andar tāzišn ī čōl wērōy-pahr [ī] an ālag. (The city of Kūmīs of five towers Aži Dahag made it his own harem. The abode of the Parthians was there. In the reign of Yazdgird, the son of Šabuhr made it during the invasion of the Čōl, at the boundary of the Georgian Guard.).[15]
-Wėrōy-pahr: "The Georgian Guard" The old name of the fortress at Darband;...[16]
In Arabic texts the city was known as "Bāb al-Abwāb" (Arabic:بَاب ٱلْأَبْوَاب,lit.'Gate of all Gates'),[17] simply as "al-Bāb" (Arabic:ٱلْبَاب,lit.'The Gate') or as "Bāb al-Hadid" (Arabic:بَاب ٱلْحَدِيد,lit.'Gate of Iron').[18] A similar name meaning "Iron Gate" was used by Turkic peoples, in the form "Demirkapi".[19][20]
View of the city from the citadel ofNaryn-Kala, 1910s
Derbent's location on a narrow, three-kilometer strip of land in theNorth Caucasus between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus Mountains is strategic in the entireCaucasus region. Historically, this position allowed the rulers of Derbent to control land traffic between theEurasian Steppe and theMiddle East. The only other practicable crossing of the Caucasus ridge was over theDarial Gorge.
A traditionally and historicallyIranian city,[21] the first intensive settlement in the Derbent area dates from the 8th century BC; the site was intermittently controlled by the Persian monarchs, starting from the 6th century BC. Until the 4th century AD, it was part ofCaucasian Albania whichwas a satrapy of theAchaemenid Persian Empire, and is traditionally identified with Albana, the capital.[14] The modern name is aPersian word (دربندDarband) meaning "gateway", which came into use in the end of the 5th or the beginning of the 6th century AD, when the city was re-established byKavadh I of theSassanid dynasty of Persia,[22] however, Derbent was probably already into the Sasanian sphere of influence as a result of the victory over the Parthians and the conquest of Caucasian Albania byShapur I, the second shah of theSassanid Persians.[14] In the 5th century Derbent also functioned as a border fortress and the seat of a Sassanidmarzban.[14]
The 20-meter-high (66 ft) walls with thirty north-looking towers are believed to belong to the time of Kavadh's son,Khosrau I, who also directed the construction of Derbent's fortress.[23]
Some say that the level of the Caspian was formerly higher and that the lowering of the water level opened an invasion route that had to be fortified.[24] The chroniclerMovses Kaghankatvatsi wrote about "the wondrous walls, for whose construction the Persian kings exhausted our country, recruiting architects and collecting building materials with a view of constructing a great edifice stretching between the Caucasus Mountains and the Great Eastern Sea". Derbent became a strong military outpost and harbour of theSassanid Empire. During the 5th and 6th centuries, Derbent also became an important center for spreading theChristian faith in the Caucasus.
During periods when the Sasanians were distracted by war with theByzantines or protracted battles with the Hephthalites in the eastern provinces, the northern tribes succeeded in advancing into the Caucasus. The first Sasanian attempt to seal off the road along the Caspian seacoast at Darband by means of a mud-brick wall has been dated in the reign ofYazdegerd II (438–457 AD).[14]
As mentioned by theEncyclopedia Iranica, ancient Iranian language elements were absorbed into the everyday speech of the population of Dagestan and Derbent especially during the Sassanian era, and many remain current.[25] In fact, a deliberate policy of “Persianizing” Derbent and the eastern Caucasus, in general, can be traced over many centuries, from Khosrow I to theSafavid shahsIsmail I, andʿAbbās the Great.[25] According to the account in the later "Darband-nāma", after construction of the fortifications Khosrow I “moved much folk here from Persia”,[26] relocating about 3,000 families from the interior of Persia in the city of Derbent and neighboring villages.[25] This account seems to be corroborated by theSpanish Arab Ḥamīd Moḥammad Ḡarnāṭī, who reported in 1130 that Derbent was populated by many ethnic groups, including a large Persian-speaking population.[27]
In 643, Derbent was captured by the Arab Muslims, who called it the Gate of Gates (Bab al-Abwab),[28] followingtheir invasion of Persia. They transformed it into an important administrative center and introducedIslam to the area. The impression of antiquity evoked by these fortifications led many Arab historians to connect them withKhosrow I and to include them among the seven wonders of the world.[14] The Darband fortress was certainly the most prominent Sasanian defensive construction in the Caucasus and could have been erected only by an extremely powerful central government.[14] Because of its strategic position on the northern branch of theSilk Route, the fortress was contested by theKhazars in the course of theKhazar-Arab Wars. The Sassanids had also brought Armenians fromSyunik to help protect the pass from invaders; as Arab rule weakened in the region at the end of the ninth century, the Armenians living there were able to establish a community, which lasted until the early years of the thirteenth century.[29][30] The Holy Saviour Armenian Church still rises up in the skyline, though it is used as the Museum of Carpet, Arts and Crafts today due to the decline in the Armenian population. There was also a second Armenian church and two Armenian schools which served the Armenian community, which numbered about 3,000 in the census of 1913.
Excavations on the eastern side of the Caspian Sea, opposite to Derbent, revealed theGreat Wall of Gorgan, the eastern counterpart to the wall and fortifications of Derbent. SimilarSassanian defensive fortifications there—massive forts, garrison towns, long walls—also run from the sea to the mountains.
The CaliphHarun al-Rashid lived in Derbent and brought it into great repute as a seat of the arts and commerce.[citation needed] According to Arab historians, Derbent, with a population exceeding 50,000, was the largest city of the 9th century in the Caucasus. In the 10th century, with the collapse of the Arab Caliphate, Derbent became the capital of an emirate.Emirate of Derbent often fought losing wars with the neighboring Christian state ofSarir, allowing Sarir to manipulate Derbent's politics on occasion. Despite that, the emirate outlived its rival and continued to flourish at the time of theMongol invasion in 1239. In the 14th century, Derbent was occupied byTimur's armies.
TheShirvanshahs dynasty existed as independent or avassal state, from 861 until 1538; longer than any other dynasty in theIslamic world. They were renowned for their cultural achievements and geopolitical pursuits. The rulers of Shirvan, called the Shirvanshahs, had attempted, and on numerous times, succeeded, to conquer Derbend since the 18th Shirvanshah king,Afridun I, was appointed as the governor of the city. Over the centuries the city changed hands often. The 21st Shirvanshah king,Akhsitan I, briefly reconquered the city. However, the city was lost once again to the northernKipchaks.
After the Timurid invasion,Ibrahim I of Shirvan, the 33rd Shirvanshah, managed to keep the kingdom of Shirvan independent. Ibrahim I revived Shirvan's fortunes, and through his cunning politics managed to continue without paying tribute. Furthermore, Ibrahim also greatly increased the limits of his state. He conquered the city of Derbend in 1437. The Shirvanshahs integrated the city so closely with their political structure that a new branch of the Shirvan dynasty emerged from Derbend, the Derbenid dynasty. The Derbenid dynasty, being a cadet dynasty of Shirvan, inherited the throne of Shirvan in the 15th century.
In the early 16th century, the kingdom of Shirvan was conquered byShah Ismail of the Safavid dynasty. As Shah Ismail incorporated all the Shirvan possessions, he also inherited Derbend.
In the 1886 census ofDagestan Oblast, as part of Russia'sCaucasus Viceroyalty, people ofIranian descent (Russian:персы) were still an absolute majority at 8,994 out of 15,265, or 58,9%.[40]
The modern city is built in theNorth Caucasus ofEastern Europe; near the western shores of theCaspian Sea, south of the Rubas River, on the slopes of the Tabasaran Mountains (part of the BiggerCaucasus range). Derbent is well served by public transport, with its own harbor, a railway going south toBaku, and the Baku toRostov-on-Don road.
To the north of the town is the monument of the Kirk-lar, or forty heroes, who fell defending Dagestan against the Arabs in 728. To the south lies the seaward extremity of theCaucasian wall (fifty metres long), otherwise known asAlexander's Wall, blocking the narrow pass of the Iron Gate orCaspian Gates (Portae Athanae orPortae Caspiae). When intact, the wall had a height of 9 m (29 ft) and a thickness of about 3 m (10 ft) and, with its iron gates and numerous watch-towers, defendedPersia's frontier.[22]
Derbent has acool semi-arid climate (KöppenBSk). Winters are highly variable, with very cold nights interspersed with occasional bouts of sunshine and summerlike temperatures. The highest recorded temperature is 38.8 °C or 101.8 °F on August 29, 1995 and August 13, 1974 and the lowest −19.0 °C or −2.2 °F on February 14, 1988 and February 3, 1994. The highest minimum temperature is 28.9 °C or 84.0 °F on July 6, 1990, July 12, 2010 and June 7, 1984, and the lowest maximum −6.1 °C or 21.0 °F on January 15, 1993 and December 7, 2005.
According to the 1897 census, Derbent had 14,649 inhabitants, 9,767 of whom were Tatar (later known asAzerbaijani) speakers (66.7%) and 1,004 wereRussian speakers (6.9%).[42]
Jews began to settle in Derbent in ancient times. During the Khazars' reign, they played an important part in the life of the city.[45] The Jewish travelerBenjamin of Tudela mentions Jews living in Derbent in the 12th century, and Christian travelerWilliam of Rubruck writes about a Jewish community in the 13th century. The first mention of Jews in Derbent in modern times is by a German traveler,Adam Olearius, in the 17th century.
Derbent's Jewry suffered during the wars in the 18th century. Nadir Shah of Persia forced many Jews to adopt Islam. After the Russian conquest, many Jews of rural Dagestan fled to Derbent, which became the spiritual center of theMountain Jews. The Jewish population numbered 2,200 in 1897 (15% of total population) and 3,500 in 1903. In the middle of the 20th century, Jews constituted about a third of the population of Derbent.[46] In 1989, there were 13,000 Jews in the city, but most emigrated after thedissolution of the Soviet Union. In 2002, there were 2,000 Jews with an active synagogue and community center.[47] The chief rabbi of Derbent, Obadiah Isakov, was badly injured in an assassination attempt on July 25, 2013, sparking concerns of further acts ofantisemitism targeting the Jewish community.[48] In 2016, the Jewish population was down to 1,345.[49] In the2024 Dagestan attacks, a synagogue in Derbent was set on fire by armed gunmen, possibly affiliated withISIS.[50][51]
The city is home to machine building, food, textile, fishing, and fishery supplies, construction materials, and wood industries. It is the center of Russianbrandy production. The educational infrastructure includes a university as well as several technical schools. On the cultural front, there is a Lezgin drama theater (named afterS. Stalsky). About two kilometers (1.2 miles) from the city is the vacation colony of Chayka (Seagull).
The Soviet novelistYury Krymov named a fictional motor tanker after the city in his bookThe Tanker "Derbent".
Derbent resembles a huge museum and has magnificent mountains and shore nearby, and therefore possesses much touristic potential, further increased byUNESCO's classification of the citadel, ancient city and fortress as aWorld Heritage Site in 2003; however, instability in the region has halted development.
The current fortification and walls were built by the PersianSassanian Empire as a defensive structure against hostile nomadic people in the north, and continuously repaired or improved by later Arab, Mongol, Timurid, Shirvan, and Iranian kingdoms until the early course of the 19th century, as long as its military function lasted. The fortress was built under the direction of the Sassanid emperorKhosrow (Chosroes) I.[23]
A large portion of the walls and several watchtowers still remain in reasonable shape. The walls, reaching to the sea, date from the 6th century,Sassanid dynasty period. The city has a well-preserved citadel (Narin-kala), enclosing an area of 4.5 hectares (11 acres), enclosed by strong walls. Historical attractions include the baths, the cisterns, the old cemeteries, the caravanserai, the 18th-century Khan's mausoleum, as well as several mosques.
Juma Mosque is the oldest mosque in Russia and theCIS. Built over a 6th-century Christian basilica; it has a 15th-centurymadrasa.
Bala-mosque is a mosque at the gates of Orta-kapa. In 1796 it was destroyed during the siege of the city by GeneralZubov. Restored in 1812.[53]
Kilis-mosque is a mosque. It is located in the 7th district. In 1823-1853 the mosque served as a church. Now it is called Tovba Mesjidi.[54]
Kyrhlyar-mosque is a mosque at the gates of Kyrhlyar-kapa. Built in 1626-1627 by order ofShah Abbas. Another name is Shah Abbas Mesjidi. Rebuilt several times.[55]
The Minaret-mosque is the only mosque in the city with a minaret. Construction dates back to the XIII-XIV centuries. Rebuilt in the middle of the 19th century. The minaret is 11.5 meters high.[56]
Chertebe-mosque is a mosque in 1 mahal. Construction dates back to the 17th century. Rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. Completely demolished in the 1960s.[57]
TheArmenian Church of the Holy All-Savior is an architectural monument of the 19th century. Built in 1860. After the completion of the overhaul and restoration work, in May 1982, a museum of fine arts (a branch of the republican museum of fine arts) was opened in it. The museum became part of the State Museum-Reserve as a department of "Carpets and arts and crafts".
TheDerbent Synagogue is the only synagogue in the city. The center of the spiritual life of the Jews of Derbent. Built in 1914. In 2009 the synagogue building was reconstructed. It was reopened on March 22, 2010.
On June 23, 2024, terrorists burned the Jewish synagogue in Derbent.[59][60][61][62]
^Daryaee, Touraj (2002).Šahrestānīhā Ī Ērānšahr: A Middle Persian Text on Late Antique Geography, Epic, and History. Costa Mesa, California 92628 U.S.A.: Mazda Publishers, Inc. pp. 14, 18.ISBN1-56859-143-8.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location (link)
^Daryaee, Touraj (2002).Šahrestānīhā Ī Ērānšahr: A Middle Persian Text on Late Antique Geography, Epic, and History. Costa Mesa, California 92628 U.S.A.: Mazda Publishers, Inc. p. 40.ISBN1-56859-143-8.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location (link)
^Кавказский календарь на 1917 год [Caucasian calendar for 1917] (in Russian) (72nd ed.). Tiflis: Tipografiya kantselyarii Ye.I.V. na Kavkaze, kazenny dom. 1917. pp. 186–193. Archived fromthe original on November 4, 2021.
Народное Собрание Республики Дагестан. Закон №16 от 10 апреля 2002 г. «Об административно-территориальном устройстве Республики Дагестан», в ред. Закона №106 от 30 декабря 2013 г. «О внесении изменений в некоторые законодательные акты Республики Дагестан». Вступил в силу со дня официального опубликования. Опубликован: "Дагестанская правда", №81, 12 апреля 2002 г. (People's Assembly of the Republic of Dagestan. Law #16 of April 10, 2002On the Administrative-Territorial Structure of the Republic of Dagestan, as amended by the Law #106 of December 30, 2013On Amending Various Legislative Acts of the Republic of Dagestan. Effective as of the day of the official publication.).
Народное Собрание Республики Дагестан. Закон №6 от 13 января 2005 г. «О статусе и границах муниципальных образований Республики Дагестан», в ред. Закона №43 от 30 апреля 2015 г. «О статусе городского округа с внутригородским делением "Город Махачкала", статусе и границах внутригородских районов в составе городского округа с внутригородским делением "Город Махачкала" и о внесении изменений в отдельные законодательные акты Республики Дагестан». Вступил в силу со дня официального опубликования. Опубликован: "Дагестанская правда", №8, 15 февраля 2005 г. (People's Assembly of the Republic of Dagestan. Law #6 of January 13, 2005On the Status and Borders of the Municipal Formations of the Republic of Dagestan, as amended by the Law #43 of April 30, 2015On the Status of the "City of Makhachkala" Urban Okrug with Intra-Urban Divisions, the Status and the Borders of the Intra-City Districts Comprising the "City of Makhachkala" Urban Okrug with Intra-Urban Divisions, and on Amending Various Legislative Acts of the Republic of Dagestan. Effective as of the day of the official publication.).
Some text used with permission fromwww.travel-images.com. The original text can be found here[1].
M. S. Saidov, ed., Katalog arabskikh rukopiseĭ Instituta IYaL Dagestanskogo filiala AN SSSR (Catalogue of Arabic manuscripts in the H.L.L. Institute of the Dāḡestān branch of the A.N. of the U.S.S.R.) I, Moscow, 1977.
Idem and A. R. Shikhsaidov, “Derbend-name (k istorii izucheniya)” (Darband-nāma. On the history of research),” in Vostochnye istochniki po istorii Dagestana (Eastern sources on the history of Dāḡestān), Makhachkala, 1980, pp. 564.
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