Thesilversmith and founder of the companySotirios Voulgaris (Greek:Σωτήριος Βούλγαρης,Italian:Sotirio Bulgari) began his career as a jewellery vendor at his family's shop in OttomanEpirus (now in Greece). During the 1880s, the family moved to Rome, where in 1884 Sotirios launched his company.[3] Over the years,Bulgari became an international brand, evolving into a notable player in the luxury market, with an established network of stores worldwide.[4] While the majority of design, production and marketing is overseen and executed by Bulgari, the company does, at times, partner with other entities. For example, Bulgari eyewear is produced through alicensing agreement withLuxottica, and Bulgari formed ajoint venture withMarriott International in 2001 to launch its hotel brand, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, a collection of properties and resort destinations around the world.
The BVLGARI logo was used for the first time in 1934, when its gilded brass letters graced the central doorway of theVia Condotti flagship store.[6] In reference toancient Rome, the "U" was replaced with the letter "V". Since then, thetrademark is stylized BVLGARI in the classicalLatin alphabet.[5][7]
The Voulgaris were a silversmithing family from the Ottoman-ruled village ofParamythia,Epirus (now part of Greece). Whether or not they share the same paternal line with theVoulgaris family ofCorfu is unclear, but Count Stefanos Voulgaris denied that the two are genealogically related.[8] According to chronicles of the Voulgaris family written inVenetian Corfu, the Voulgaris family ofSaint Spyridon of Corfu descended from the royal figures of "barbarian" peoples who settled inMoesia near the Balkan –Haemus mountains, located in Bulgaria", including PrinceStefan Lazarević andKhan Tervel, "kings of theTriballi,[9] in the 16th century testament of the family, becoming such by taking refugee in theVenetian island Corfu.[10][11][8]
The founder of the Bulgari brand wasSotirios Voulgaris (Σωτήριος Βούλγαρης), who was born inParamythia, in March 1857; he originated from theAromanian village ofKalarrytes, which was the largest center forsilversmithing in theBalkans. He was one of eleven children of Georgios Voulgaris (1823–1889) and hisVlachophoneGreek mother Eleni Strouggari. In 1881, Sotirios and his family moved toRome, where in 1884 he opened his second jewellery store on via Sistina 85 (their first shop inNaples closed after burglaries).[3] In 1888, he married Aromanian Eleni Basio, with whom he had six children: Constantine-Georgios (1889–1973), Leonidas-Georgios (1890–1966), Maria-Athena (1891–1976), Sofia (1893–1908), Alexandra (1895–1984) and Spyridon (1897–1932); Leonidas-Georgios is the father of the current chairman of the company,Paolo Bulgari.[12] In 1905, he unveiled theVia Condotti shop that would become the company's flagship.[7] In its early years, Bulgari was known forsilver pieces that borrowed elements fromByzantine andIslamic art, combining them with floral motifs. At the time,Paris was the apex of fashion and creativity, and its trends influenced Sotirio's designs for decades: jewels of the early '20s were characterised byplatinumArt Deco settings while those of the '30s featured geometric diamond motifs—sometimes set in combination with colouredgemstones. Convertible jewels were also popular during the time, and one of Bulgari's major pieces was theTrombino, a small trumpet-shaped ring.
In 1932, Sotirio died, leaving the business to his two sons,Giorgio (1890–1966) and Costantino (1889–1973), who each had a keen interest in precious stones and jewels. During theSecond World War, most new jewellery was crafted out of gold, as gems were scarce, and designs became more naturalistic. As the 1940s came to a close, Bulgari introducedSerpenti bracelet-watches.[13]
At the same time, Bulgari went to a new style. Thepost-war boom saw a return to precious materials, particularly white metals covered in diamonds. In the 1950s, Bulgari launched its first floral brooches—calleden tremblant because of their trembling diamond corollas. At the end of the 1950s, Bulgari began to establish its motifs, introducing structured, symmetrical shapes in yellow gold set with brilliant gems—chosen for their colour rather than intrinsic value. Among these multi-hued jewels,cabochon cuts were another innovation. These new pieces were a significant departure from classical Parisian design.
As one of the pioneers in using vibrant colored gemstones,[15] Bulgari further demonstrated its craftsmanship in the 1960s with intricate designs like the Serpenti collection, where colorful enamel and stones, including rubies and diamonds, were meticulously fitted into the serpent's scales to create a vibrant and detailed finish.[16]
After Giorgio's death in 1966, his sonGianni led the company as co-chief executive with his cousin Marina.[17] Designer and heir to the jewelry legacy, Marina Bulgari, also known as Marina B, died on 14 February 2024 in Rome, at the age of 93.[18]
During the 1970s, Bulgari stores opened inNew York,Geneva,Monte Carlo andParis. This era marks the beginning of the Group's international expansion, withGianni as chairman and CEO. A number of new motifs made their debut as well—jewels became recognisable for their angular forms, strong colours, oval elements withcabochons, chains and maxi sautoirs, while the predominant use of yellow gold made precious pieces feel all the more wearable, and became known as a Bulgari trademark.[citation needed] In 1977, Bulgari entered the world of horlogerie with the launch of theBVLGARI BVLGARI watch.[19]At the time, Gianni led a complete overhaul of the company, focusing on product design.[20]
In the early 1980s, to oversee all production of Bulgari watches, Bulgari Time was founded inSwitzerland.[21] In 1984,Paolo andNicola Bulgari, Giorgio's sons, became chairman and vice-chairman, respectively,[22] while their nephew,Francesco Trapani, became chief executive officer.[7] In 1985, Gianni resigned asCEO and in 1987, he left the family business after selling his one-third stake in the company to his brothers Nicola and Paolo.
Bulgari diversified its brand in 1993 with the launch of its firstfragrance,Eau Parfumée auThe Vert and the founding of Bulgari Parfums inSwitzerland to oversee the creation and production of all perfumes. In 1995, Bulgari pushed ahead with an aggressive programme for growth, becoming listed on theMilan Stock Exchange for the first time. In 1996, the brand launched its first accessories collection, beginning withsilk scarves before developing a range ofleather accessories andeyewear. In 1999, the brand launched the B.zero1 ring.[clarification needed][7]
The company has seen 150% revenue growth between 1997 and 2003. Bvlgari continues to build up many brands which has made them one of the most profitable luxury brands in the jewelry industry.
The year 2000 was the beginning of an increasingly aggressive period ofverticalization for Bulgari, with the acquisition of the luxurywatchmaking brands Daniel Roth andGérald Genta,[23] followed by the takeover of the jewellery firm Crova and of other companies that specialised in leather goods and watchmaking.[24] The opening of the first Bulgari Hotel inMilan in 2004 further confirmed the expansion strategy of the brand, and was the result of a joint venture with Luxury Group, a division ofMarriott International. In 2009, Bulgari celebrated its 125th anniversary with a retrospective of the brand's history, held in Rome atPalazzo delle Esposizioni.[25] That same year, the snake—a motif that appeared in Bulgari collections from the 1960s—re-emerged as the emblem of theSerpenti collection.
In 2011, Bulgari signed a strategic alliance withLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, the world's leading luxury group. The agreement was based on a stock transfer of the Bulgari family's shares in Bulgari S.p.A. to LVMH, an all-share deal for €4.3 billion ($6.0 billion).[26] Under the deal, the Bulgari family sold their 50.4 per cent controlling stake in exchange for 3 per cent ofLVMH, thereby becoming the second-biggest family shareholder behind theArnaults in LVMH.[27] The takeover doubled the size of LVMH's watches and jewellery unit, which at the time of the acquisition includedTag Heuer timepieces andDe Beers diamond necklaces. The acquisition concluded on 4 October 2011 as Bulgari was delisted from theBorsa Italiana.[citation needed]
In 2014, Bulgari celebrated the 130th anniversary of the brand. To mark the occasion, the shop atVia Condotti 10 was "reimagined" by the architectPeter Marino, and reopened. On the same day, the brand donated €1.5 million to the city ofRome for the restoration of theSpanish Steps.[28] A few months after the Grand Opening, theDOMVS was inaugurated in the redesigned Bulgari boutique, creating a gallery space to house of Bulgari's Heritage Collection.[29]
In 2017, Bulgari opened a new jewellery manufacturing headquarters inValenza. The largest in Europe, with a total area of 14,000 square metres (150,000 sq ft), the Manufacture has been given a GoldLEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) certification for sustainability in its design.[30] The facility was built over the former home of the first goldsmith in Valenza,Francesco Caramora. The buildings follow the model of a Romandomus, and are built around a central courtyard.[31]
In March 2024, the Bvlgari jewellery house officialized and announced the creation of the Fondazione Bvlgari, an institution that is an extension of the brand's founding values, particularly its commitment to safeguarding historical heritage.[32]
Bulgari's watch collections includeOcto,BVLGARI BVLGARI,Diagono andHaute Horlogerie creations for men, andLVCEA,Serpenti,Divas' Dream,BVLGARI BVLGARI,B.zero1 and High Jewellery timepieces for women. It mixes Italian design and Swiss watchmaking. The company's Swiss subsidiary, Bulgari Haute Horlogerie SA, is responsible for Bulgari's watch production. It was founded in 1980 and is headquartered inNeuchâtel. Bulgari Haute Horlogerie SA employs about 500 people.[citation needed]
Fragrances includeGoldea,Splendida andOmnia for women,BVLGARI Man,Aqua,the Classics, andBlv Pour Homme for men, as well asBVLGARI Le Gemme andEau Parfumée.[citation needed]
In 2001, Bulgari formed a joint venture withThe Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, a hotel brand owned byMarriott International, to launch Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, a collection of hotels and resort destinations around the world.[33] Their distinctive settings and Italian design by the architectural firmAntonio Citterio-Patricia Viel characterise the properties of Bulgari Hotel Group.
Although operated by The Ritz-Carlton Company, Bulgari hotels and resorts do not participate in the Marriott Bonvoyloyalty program, meaning guests can neither earn nor redeem points for free bookings. It is currently the only Marriott brand to practice this policy, following the inclusion of The Ritz-Carlton Reserve properties to the program in April 2022.[34]
Bulgari has about 300 stores. The largest is the 10-storey Bulgari Ginza Tower inTokyo, 940 square metres (10,100 sq ft) of retail floor space, including a restaurant and lounge bar.[62]
The Bulgari Art Award is an annual art award in partnership with theArt Gallery of New South Wales,Sydney, Australia. Sponsored by Bulgari, the $50,000 acquisitive cash award plus $30,000 residency in Italy is presented to mid-career Australian artists.[66]